Broken Exhaust Manifold Stud in Aluminum Head- Best Tools & Techniques?

[CMG]

This is not on a BMW so more of a general auto mechanic question. It's a Nissan S13 with sr20det, and the head is aluminum, and the exhaust manifold stud closest to the firewall broke off at some point during driving. I have maybe at least 8" of working space around the broken stud. I have been messing around with different turbos and manifolds and I had used a tubular header and copper exhaust gasket. I didn't use locknuts because It wasn't a permanent set up so I just kept checking nut tightness every so often when cold. At some point that rear most stud broke off. I can get the manifold and turbo off in an hour but have no idea what I will find. I'm hoping that I have some thread sticking out so there is something to grab onto but need to prepare for the worst. Looking for recommendations for the top two tools to have in hand to deal with either best case scenario of threads sticking out or worst case scenario of having it broken off in the head, as in name brand, best price, or where to get it, etc.

[dnguyen1963]

Post a pic if you can. This kind of problem is hard to solve without seeing what the stud (or what is left of it) looks like. If there is enough thread, you can try the double-nut method. Otherwise, you might have to weld a nut onto the stud to take it off.

[bddog]

Two nuts, one locked onto the other. Plenty of penetrating oil, then back out slowly.
I have a set of snap on easy outs, I drill then use when they snap off flush.
If you muck it up, you can always drill and helicoil it. Good luck, I hope you have room to just back it out.

[dnguyen1963]

It would be difficult to drill because he has only about 8" of space and pretty damn close to the firewall.

[CMG]

The problem is that I can drive the car as is now, but once I take off the manifold it will sit until I can fix it. I highy doubt I have enough thread for two nuts, possibly for one. If I'm real lucky I might be able to just get it out with vice grips. The stud is maybe 15mm diameter or so. I was planning on buying extracting tools, but this is my first time doing a complicated extraction so don't know which tools to get. Worst case is either drilling a small hole to fit some type of extracting tool or bit, or I'll have to fully drill it out and hope I don't strip the threads. Any recommendations for brand and model of extractor tools or kits?

[2mAn]

Best bet would be to get a pic so you will know if you can pull the broken stud out or if its more involved prior to actually pulling the manifold off.

[e30davie]

Pic will tell all. All depends how much you have to play with.

Unless you can easily grab on to it using the two nut method, you are most likely going to have to get creative...

worst case drill it and use an easy out reverse screw/bolt thing. I personally have never had much success and its easy to damage the thread, this is a last resort thing for me.

Id guess most of your regular battery drills wont fit....but if you have one of those air operated drills that have a sharp right angle that might be the ticket.

Unfortunately its a matter of trying everything until something works. Sharp screwdriver and a hammer might tap it around enough to get it out. if you have a little bit sticking out you might be able to file down two sides of the studd so you can get spanner onto it, or maybe smash a small socket onto it and see if you can turn it.

[UlrichFennec]

I'd say if you've got access to a welder, try and get a nut on a few threads if there are any sticking out, weld it, let it cool for a little bit and then slowly try to work it out with a ratchet. If the nut comes off, weld another one until it comes out or until you get tired of it.

I've had to do this a couple times with multiple different cars as a last resort if I can't use the ez-out sockets.

[e30onBBSs]

https://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com/35Pc-Screw-Extractor-and-Drill-Bit-Set-P1585.aspx?gclid=CjwKCAjw8IXMBRB8EiwAg9fgMO6dknyWU1276pTZj506h8HcKAz7g1hEi7-QvOsNonLc44UE0QqWeRoCkJoQAvD_BwE

This is what you want for basically all your needs. Turbo socket if it's protruding, otherwise drill a small hole and smack one of the puller things into it and spin it out. Or drill and helicoil or timesert. Welding a nut on the stud is also good but you need a welder for that. You can also get a right angle drill to give yourself much much more room. Expensive, but worth it for if and when headaches like this happen.

Next time use a torque wrench =)

[pondhopper]

The weld a nut trick is a good one cause it 1- gives you a proper surface to exert force to rotate the stud out. 2- often the heat shock from welding will break any bond between the Alu and steel items. I use it on rusted out parts to break the rust bond. I usually have penetrant sprayed on first and again right after. Lots of smoke but the lube penetrates well and saves a lot of drilling and tapping.

Good luck either way.

[jeffnhiscars]

just a note of caution...the danger in welding anything with a fair number of machined parts is that anything between your ground electrode and your work runs the risks of having current arc across any gaps...such as ball bearings, rocker to valve clearances etc. You are creating a spark plug (or series of them) and the resulting damage from pitting is not pleasant.

Just sayin'

[E30 Wagen]

Depending on how bad the situation is, frankly I'd be tempted to pull the engine out to give yourself more room to work. If the car is going to be in-op anyway, might save you some time and headache in the long run.

[yosh]

I've used this before, worked pretty Damn well. https://www.ebay.com/p/Performance-T...203/1578514368

[CMG]

https://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.co...RoCkJoQAvD_BwE

This is what you want for basically all your needs. Turbo socket if it's protruding, otherwise drill a small hole and smack one of the puller things into it and spin it out. Or drill and helicoil or timesert. Welding a nut on the stud is also good but you need a welder for that. You can also get a right angle drill to give yourself much much more room. Expensive, but worth it for if and when headaches like this happen.

Next time use a torque wrench =)

Yeah I accept full responsibility for the situation. I had been so busy with school and work that I didn't have time to fix it, so I just carried a 14mm with me and tightened it down whenever it started getting loud. I just ordered that kit. Fingers crossed I don't have to use it but it will be good addition to the tool case.
I'll try to get some pics so you guys can see what I'm talking about. Part of my considerations is that I had planned to pull this stock sr20det and put it in the Silvia, then put a built sr20det in the pig. That is planned for the future, but time wise it would be ideal to be able to fix the pig. It's just one frickin stud, jeez. We'll see.