Working out some kinks UPDATE (Bogging, jerking, hesitating at low ks)

[Jib05]

Ive got the plug, i have no crimps left. Does anyone know if i just use a blade female crimp? Or is it special?

[pandaboo911]

It's a shallow round pin so I doubt a spade connector would work on the green plug.

The standard connector is black plastic formed to fit over one pin in the row of 3.


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[Jib05]

OK, I've wired the green plug to pin 14 on my x20 adapter (supposedly the Speed signal) and the test (as on previous page) still doesn't seem to work.

Also i'm still getting the same rev cut/miss-fire/10-AFR on WOT. Before driving I disconnected the battery for about an hour and also test drove for about 30 mins before giving it WOT.

All the pin outs I've looked at point to X20P14 as the speed sensor. I plugged the wire into the top right port on the green plug.

Anyone chime in if I've done something wrong? cheers

[pandaboo911]

Check the pin for power, should be about 10v I think.

No voltage, no signal

Any of the three pins on the right of the plug should have the signal.


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[Jib05]

so an update i guess, Ive been doing some poking around with a multimeter. Ive found that i have voltage, around 9-10v IGN on.
But I'm getting no change in the quick idle test, nor any change in the fuel maps.

to give quick run down of what I've done

-checked pin 14 to ECU
-checked green plug to ECU
-checked tach pin labelled "A" to green plug to ecu
-checked pin that connects to blue plug on the back of the cluster, traced it to the pin "A" in the cluster to the green plug to the ECU

but if I'm getting voltage at through the wiring it would be right? am i missing something? Also could it be the speed sensor in the diff not sending the "correct" signal? It is a prefacelift car. Really hate seeing this car parked in my garage collecting dust...

[Jib05]

Thanks heaps pandaboo911!

got my stomp test going and managed to fix the speed sensor (The code for speed sensor isnt coming up).
I am getting a 1222 which could be

air leak defective Air Flow Meter ( AFM)
bad engine temperature sensor
incorrect fuel pressure
problem with injector(s)
defective evaporation system
empty gas tank
issue with spark plugs
problem with valves

and a 1263
which is purge valve which my particular engine did not come with. Instead it came with a plug with a diode of some sort that stops the code coming up. My plug is dead (showing no continuity of current) so ill have to change that.

So im guessing ill have to go through that entire list? Any way to pinpoint the fault?

[pandaboo911]

Working out some kinks (speed signal)

1222 is a lean/rich detect.

First figure out if your car is running rich or lean. Pull your plugs, if the electrodes are white, it's running lean. If they are black or wet, it's running rich.
Likewise if your engine makes lots of power but stumbles at high rpm, lean. If your gas mileage sucks and the car bogs at low rpm, rich.

My first guess would be vacuum leak somewhere. Could be related to your purge valve. If you don't have a purge valve make sure the line that normally goes there is plugged, it goes to the bottom of the throttle body. Also you gotta vent your gas tank to atmosphere (outside the engine bay!!) without a purge valve to prevent vapor lock in your tank.

If you're getting 1263 with a purge valve resistor delete then your wiring could be shorted, or your delete was done wrong. Should be a 1k ohm 1 watt resistor between the two poles

Another possibility is a leaking injector, causing a rich condition, but a vacuum leak is more common.

Go get some brake cleaner or carb cleaner and spray all the areas that see vacuum. If the engine rpm changes when you spray, you have a leak.

[Jib05]

^ive been reading a few threads and you are not wrong, the car is running very rich at WOT. Anything before that it seems quite normal 12.5:1-14:1 depending on load. But at WOT the AFR is a good 11:1. (hence why i hardly drive the thing)

If i try pull in 4th at 40kph it bogs a hiccups and starts shooting toward lean like it's running out of fuel.

Things ive changed to trouble shoot

Fuel pump
O2 sensor
O2 sensor relay
DME temp sensor
fuel injectors (gonna change these again)
maf

still need to put in a new fuel filter but i dont think its related.

[Coupelx]

There is one wire that goes to the dme that only gets power when cranking. In the ETM it mentions that if it gets power all the time the car will run rich. Food for thought on a swapped car.

[Jib05]

I had a quick poke around the ETM, haven't found anything yet but ill keep looking through.

Im almost certain its an DME, chip or injector related. Mostly due to these are the things that changed when these problems started coming up. Will post up a video of what happened when i got back from a short drive today.

[Jib05]

OK, i am narrowing it down. I am now 90% sure it is the Chip tune i have bought or the ECU. The car drives/idles worse and worse the more it drives in closed loop but in open loop. If i let it drive/idle in closed loop long enough the AFR mixture goes full lean and the engine just dies.

In open loop the AFR is at around 14:1 at idle and 12:1 WOT. But as soon as closed loop kicks in it the AFR at idle jumps from 14:1 to 16:1 frequently and then after some time (an hour almost) it runs 18:1 and dies. If i put it back into open loop however it is fine.

I am currently on the hunt for a new DME/Chip.

[Jib05]

Speed signal is now connecting and functioning.

UPDATED

But i still get bogging, jerking, hesitating at low engine speeds and my idle is absolutely shit. idles at 500rpm but is around 16:1 AFR and i have to keep pulsing the gas to keep the engine alive. I'm still scouring the internet for information.

So far i've

- changed injectors
- changed DME
- checked TPS
- changed MAF
- changed FPR
- changed o2 sensor
- cleaned ICV

Still on the to do list is fuel filter and fuel pump. Could the idle control valve cause a vacuum leak and cause it to idle/drive rough?

Also another question is my particular E30 came with one fuel pump. Not an intank one but under the car. Which seemed weird because I was under the impression that there were two? I've checked where the intank pump is SUPPOSED to be but there is only a fuel level sender and no provisions for another fuel pump (lift type). Hmm this sure is confusing.

Video below

https://youtu.be/fn0qqNUgWtQ

[pandaboo911]

Early model will have 2 pumps. One transfer pump on the passenger side of the tank with a small fuel level sensor. One high pressure pump under the car.

Late model has 1 pump on the passenger side with a small fuel level sensor, and a large round fuel level sensor on the drivers side.

Have you checked your fuel pressure? Could be a clogged filter or your fuel pump setup doesn't work properly which will definitely lean out the mixture.

[Jib05]

I pulled out the fuel level sender just for you :) i also took the whole thing apart, there is no pump just the level sender

[pandaboo911]

Working out some kinks UPDATE (Bogging, jerking, hesitating at low ks)

Well there's your problem LOL.

There should be a transfer pump on there. It has a pickup on the bottom for fuel. Are you sure there's nothing in there? Transfer pumps are small and usually plastic like that. But the oem fuel pump hanger is zinc coated steel, so that's not oem.

Chances are your high pressure pump is bad as well because they aren't designed to run dry or pull fuel. If there's no transfer pump in there then that's 100% your problem and your high pressure pump is not getting a good supply of fuel to pump.
It's kind of impressive that it starts at all, I bet it's siphoning gas out of the tank with gravity, but that's not nearly enough to keep it fed with enough fuel.