A while back I ordered Garagistic's poly suspension kit (diff, trailing arms, control arms, subframe). I ordered it in 95a but now I am questioning that choice. I'm building my e30 for street only and I want it to handle really well but I don't want it to be uncomfortably stiff, have a lot of noise or vibration, etc...does anyone have any experience with 80a vs 95a bushings? Should I try to exchange these or is there much of a difference?
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80A vs 95A poly bushings
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for the street new OEM rubbers are actually good when everything is refreshed, so id get the softer of the two if you weren't getting OEM bushes.89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...
new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505
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I'd agree with Digger. I replaced my original bushings with new rubber and it made a huge difference. I did a lot of reading about poly vs rubber before doing mine, and for my driving rubber sounded like the way to go (daily driving, BTW).Estoguy
1986 BMW 325, Alpenweiss ~ "Elsa"
Need a photographer, come visit my site: http://estoguy.wix.com/unique-perspectives
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on my ES I did the OEM rubber with solid M3 CABs up front and I used this stuff called 3M window weld on the rears to fill the gaps and it was amazing. If mine was going to be daily thats the way to do it.Simon
Current Cars:
-1999 996.1 911 4/98 3.8L 6-Speed, 21st Century Beetle
Make R3V Great Again -2020
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I've been driving on solid UHMW bushings (68D Durometer, way harder than 95A) all around for a while now, and it's not bad at all, even with my stiff tires and stiffer suspension. YMMV, that's personal preference, but my car is definitely not loud or overly harsh. So harshness, vibration; not a problem. Squeaky poly trailing arm bushings though, that's a problem.Last edited by varg; 12-13-2016, 09:30 PM.
IG @turbovarg
'91 318is, M20 turbo
[CoTM: 4-18]
'94 525iT slicktop, M50B30 + S362SX-E, 600WHP DD or bust - updated 3-17
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I have Garagistic's poly suspension kit (diff, trailing arms, control arms, subframe). 95a
and here we have shitty roads ,and car is really fine , no vibration at all ,no harshness on a lowered car , no squeaks either (used alot of grease while install though )
actually the only bushing that made real vibration is the transmission bushings (although 80a)
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Originally posted by JOMARO View PostI have Garagistic's poly suspension kit (diff, trailing arms, control arms, subframe). 95a
and here we have shitty roads ,and car is really fine , no vibration at all ,no harshness on a lowered car , no squeaks either (used alot of grease while install though )
actually the only bushing that made real vibration is the transmission bushings (although 80a)
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I've had 75D bushings from AKG in a previous car, loved how tight the car felt. Hated that the bushings would squeak in parking lots. Wouldn't say they're "harsh" at all.
I have 80A bushings everywhere in my current e30 and I am content with the response they provide. I'm used to cars with all solid everything, so I feel that these are softer than desirable. That's how they're advertised, thats what they are.
95A bushings will be fine, don't be scared of the slightly stiffer rating.My feedback:
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=186328
http://e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=74911
Instagram:
@gears_n_glory
@functionmotorsports
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I was long a proponent of 80a for a fun street car. I used it as a selling point to the extent that new guys getting into making parts began to see the light and produce them.
There is a relatively large difference between it and a 95a. It's hard to describe it unless you have both in your hands.
For a fun street car I liked to recommend 80a urethane on the suspension bushings and factory rubber on the drivetrain mounts (engine, trans, diff)
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Originally posted by bataangpinoy View PostI've had 75D bushings from AKG in a previous car, loved how tight the car felt. Hated that the bushings would squeak in parking lots. Wouldn't say they're "harsh" at all.
I have 80A bushings everywhere in my current e30 and I am content with the response they provide. I'm used to cars with all solid everything, so I feel that these are softer than desirable. That's how they're advertised, thats what they are.
95A bushings will be fine, don't be scared of the slightly stiffer rating.
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The only thing I hate about my Poly I have now is the squeaking from the trailing arms. I dont think they lubed them up enough when they were installed. I have a mix of IE and AKG in the back and solid Treehouse CABs in frontSimon
Current Cars:
-1999 996.1 911 4/98 3.8L 6-Speed, 21st Century Beetle
Make R3V Great Again -2020
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Originally posted by 2mAn View PostThe only thing I hate about my Poly I have now is the squeaking from the trailing arms. I dont think they lubed them up enough when they were installed. I have a mix of IE and AKG in the back and solid Treehouse CABs in front
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Originally posted by gdrumm93 View PostWhat poly grade are you running on the subframe and trailing arms?
Ireland Engineering Urethane Rear Subframe Mounts
AKG Motorsports Polyurethane Differential Mount Bushing & Rear Trailing Arm Bushings
https://www.akgmotorsport.com/product/rear-subframe-and-differential-mount-bushing-set-poly-95a-e30/Our BMW E30 poly 95a rear subframe and differential bushings significantly reduce rear end movement for effective power transfer. Made in USA.Simon
Current Cars:
-1999 996.1 911 4/98 3.8L 6-Speed, 21st Century Beetle
Make R3V Great Again -2020
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I went through the same process as you- debating OEM rubber vs. poly for a "fun street car". I did my front suspension with OEM rubber but used solid M3 FCABs. Motor and trans mounts are also OEM. I just dropped my subframe and bought Garagistic 80a RTABs and subframe bushings. Going with OEM diff bushing. I'm running Billy Sports/HR Sports. I was told the bulk of vibration comes through trans mounts, motor mounts and diff mount- so stay with rubber there. Grease up the poly mounts well. Someone even suggested installing Zerk fittings in the trailing arms while I have it all apart, but I don't think there is enough clearance once they are mounted in the subframe and subframe bolted to car. I bought some 90 degree Zerks anyway and will report back when done. Bending and flaring brake lines is a BITCH! I've all but given up trying to put a bubble flare on a steel line. Buying a roll of CuNi brake line this weekend!
I'm sure Garagistic would swap out the 95a for 80a if you asked- you don't want to do this job twice!
Swen
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