Inspecting an e30 to buy...

[Ahheck01]

What all should I look for? It's an 87 325is 5speed. I've owned 3 e36's, an e34 and an e39, but don't have a clue what needs to be looked at on the e30's...

Thanks in advance!

-Evan

[optimusp517]

-damp trunk carpets, but it's easily fixable
-timing belt, when was it changed

that's all I can think of myself for an e30 specific...

[1991 318is]

Definitely get it on a lift and check for really rusted up suspension pieces, cross members, etc. Check for rust around the rear body panel and lower valance.

[KangamangusDriver]

Inspect:
Control arms for play
Steering Rack for Play

Rear subframe mounts (wear out over time)
Trailing Arm bushings
Rear upper shock mounts
Wheel bearings

TIMING BELT!!!!!!!!

Other than the obvious that should cover it.

[Jscotty]

Check both front seats to make sure that they are functioning properly. Most E30's that I have seen has a problem with the edge towards the center of the car dipping back, thus making for an uncomfortable ride.

Also, make sure that the jack, spare, and tire iron are in the trunk. These are simple things that can be easily replaced, however, I would use that as a negotiating factor if they are missing.

[StereoInstaller1]

Are you looking to buy a trouble-free car or do you want leverage in negotiations? Look at everything everyone else has mentioned, but add:

Center support bushing/U-joints. Shifter linkage
Rear Shock Mounts, subframe bushings, trailing arm bushings.

Clutch Master/Slave cylinders

POWER STEERING RACK!!!

Control arm bushings...and the ever present BALL JOINTS!

Cooling system: Heater core leaks...AUX fan, motor mounts, tranny mounts.

The list goes on and on.

I bought a decent plastic bumpered 325i for $500 for my wifey. I am doing head gasket, fluid flushes, new struts, replacing seats front and rear (leather Sports, please) having alredy buffed and detailed the interior. I have not yet found anything that I would consider a "deal breaker".

Stereo, alarm, wheels, tires, etc...I would have to do that to anything I bought her anyway, right? Soon she has a shiny, pretty, smooth E30 for about $2K total, with solid mechanicals.

I found 1/2" of bondo on the "A pillar" of the '86 ETA that I bought ($100!) for my son. I picked at it, found a TON more bondo, all in critical places. It goes tot the scrapper. I do not trust it safetywise to put my only son in.

Deal broken. My loss. I will need to inspect better next time, right?

GL on the hunt.

Luke

[Ahheck01]

Okay guys, got a bunch more info! The owner posted it's needs. Anyone care to brake it down and tell me how much time and money each issue is going to be to fix myself, and as a result, how much you think the car is worth?

Thanks,

-Evan

here's the link to the craigslist advertisement.

http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/car/321294057.html

KNOWN ISSUES -

Body / Suspension:

Some Hail damage to hood and decklid.
Rust on decklid.
Small amount of rust on driverside quaterpanel. It is not "through rust", just light surface.
Faded paint on roof.
Rear subframe bushings will possibly need to be replaced.

Interior / Electrical:

Front seats are in rough shape, see pics.
Cruise Control knob is no longer attached - I have the knob.
Speakers are blown. Radio / CD player works good but I believe that it is wired wrong. Factory installed amplifier may also be the culprit.
Dash is cracked in more than one place, see pics.
OBC works but temperature reads -30...lol

Engine / Driveline:

Motor has valve noise, valves need to be adjusted.
I was told by previous owner that timing belt was recently done, but its not worth it to chance, I would highly suggest is is replaced within the next 10k miles.
Could also use a cap/rotor/plugs/wires tune up... do em when you do the timing belt.
Clutch is good.
Breaks may need some attention in the near future, I have new front pads (not installed) the car still stops very good.

If you are looking for a flawless car please ignore this ad, the car does need lots of tlc, but will make a good driver while you fix it up. If you are looking for a 5k car for under 2k its not going to happen here. Either someone is going to give me 1500 or I am going to keep it. I have tried to disclose everything I know about the car. I would also prefer to sell to a local buyer...

The car is priced to right at $1500 firm... asking 1750 locally.
any other questions or picture requests please ask away!:buttrock

*For a price I will install a new timing belt,plugs, cap and rotor. I've got that down to about a 2 hour job.
**I have a few spare parts I will include with the car; Complete uncut engine wiring harness - w/ bosch 173 dme, good spare stater, and a few other odds and ends.


-Nick

[Jscotty]

Anyone care to brake it down and tell me how much time and money each issue is going to be to fix myself, and as a result, how much you think the car is worth?
-Evan

You have quite a laundry list there but none of those items seem to be critical enough to kill the deal. For the price I would suggest that the guy just keep his car. I can understand asking $1500 based on the overall potential but if you want to be business smart about it, you have to evaluate the car in its present condition. If the seller is not willing and able to fix up the car and correct all of the minor problems then its not worth what he is asking.

I found 1/2" of bondo on the "A pillar" of the '86 ETA that I bought ($100!) for my son. I picked at it, found a TON more bondo, all in critical places. It goes tot the scrapper. I do not trust it safetywise to put my only son in.

Deal broken. My loss. I will need to inspect better next time, right?

Luke

I read many years ago that you should bring a magnet with you when inspecting a used car. That's how I found 2 big bondo patches on the front fender and rear quarter panel. I ended up negotiating another $100 off of the price.

[02stu]

Seems a bit much, however most e30s have those problems. The only difference is the seller won't tell you them. I would keep looking, you should really avoid rust at all costs. If there is rust anywhere on the body there is no doubt rust in other places. That car is going to nickel and dime you to death.