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    #16
    Looks like I need to get some M52 exhaust manifolds then. Is it really that much better then the stock M50 exhaust manifolds? Like worth the effort kinda upgrade? Lol

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      #17
      Originally posted by maclogos View Post
      Looks like I need to get some M52 exhaust manifolds then. Is it really that much better then the stock M50 exhaust manifolds? Like worth the effort kinda upgrade? Lol
      Honestly if you already have the cast iron ones dont bother. They are good enough; nobody has proven the m52 ones are actually better on the dyno- if they have the sheets are lost somewhere.

      A s50b30 at 3000cc makes 240 Hp- cast iron manifolds
      A s52b32 at 3200cc also makes 240hp - tubular manifolds.

      Obviously bmw set up these numbers.
      OBD1 M54/M52TU swap as a M50b25

      Z4 non powered steering rack fits e30



      Euro e46 2005/6 320d 6mt gearbox into E30 with M20 hardy and beck 1985 327s engine

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        #18
        Thanks for the info. Yeah i kinda figured it wouldnt be worth the effort is the gains were very minimal. So to ask about the treehouse racing bushings do they actually help in any other areas besides just more room to run exhaust? Like tighter handling or anything like that? Im already on GC coilovers but still have stock sways lol. Soon to be done. Just wanna make the handling the best it can be. Of course without turning the ride quality to crap.

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          #19
          Originally posted by maclogos View Post
          Thanks for the info. Yeah i kinda figured it wouldnt be worth the effort is the gains were very minimal. So to ask about the treehouse racing bushings do they actually help in any other areas besides just more room to run exhaust? Like tighter handling or anything like that? Im already on GC coilovers but still have stock sways lol. Soon to be done. Just wanna make the handling the best it can be. Of course without turning the ride quality to crap.
          Stiffens up the steering response, a bit more "road feel" but would call it far from crap and love mine for daily driving.

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            #20
            Originally posted by maclogos View Post
            Thanks for the info. Yeah i kinda figured it wouldnt be worth the effort is the gains were very minimal. So to ask about the treehouse racing bushings do they actually help in any other areas besides just more room to run exhaust? Like tighter handling or anything like that? Im already on GC coilovers but still have stock sways lol. Soon to be done. Just wanna make the handling the best it can be. Of course without turning the ride quality to crap.
            why do you need to change sway bars? most of the racing e30's in local NASA GTS and other classes ditch the rear bar and just juggle the spring rates; this is also popular in e36 as well. handing......race cars usually care more about it and can quantify modifications with data logging compared to a street car.

            wait your location is sanfrancisco? the shittiest roads in the 1st world and most waste of resource city in terms of transit?

            SF roads = use OEM lower control arm bushings from 1995 m3 (offset) or 1996-98 M3 (non offset); direct pnp into place of the stock e30 part. buy it from bluntech and you will spend less than $75 all said and done (including outsource the press in part to a machine shop)

            for san francisco Ground control coilovers are almost too rough, I did it on my e34 but its a much bigger body. HR coilovers were also too rough; stock sport suspension is probably faster over rough SF roads.

            why? Bushings are designed for compliance; when remove or too stiff is car jumping up and down on crappy roads = less traction and less control. SLOWER/more dangerous.



            why buy a knockoff full raze part that makes you slower over the intended purpose of the car (drive on street from point a to b).


            FULL RAZE is cool to put on your mod list; thats about it.
            FULL RAZE modlist e30's never actually race because ............r3vtarded?

            even actual racing E30's don't need treeballeyehouseballer bush deletes.

            Originally posted by ParsedOut View Post
            Stiffens up the steering response, a bit more "road feel" but would call it far from crap and love mine for daily driving.
            SF roads are garbage compared to your nice roads.
            San Francisco= crappiest roads in the USA. Worse than Detroit (I grew up in the midwest)
            Last edited by Wanganstyle; 01-20-2014, 11:13 AM.
            OBD1 M54/M52TU swap as a M50b25

            Z4 non powered steering rack fits e30



            Euro e46 2005/6 320d 6mt gearbox into E30 with M20 hardy and beck 1985 327s engine

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              #21
              Wow those are some harsh comparisons and words!

              my 2 bits about the bushings, they help tighten up the steering response a good bit as was already mentioned and they allow the rest of your suspension to function properly.

              If the control arm bushings were a bushing that was supposed to flex then I'd agree to stick with a more OEM bushing, the FCAB's are designed as a pivot bushing with extra rubber around them to keep them quiet. by removing slack and play from the FCAB you allow the suspension to transfer the movement more efficiently into the suspension vs the bushing flexing and absorbing part of the bump.

              Another important aspect to think about for street driving is that softer FCAB bushings allow the control arm to flex/shift around which will change your alignment spec, for a daily driven car that means more tire wear etc.

              Its easy to say this suspension setup is to stiff or that suspension setup is too stiff, but everybody has a different idea of what is an acceptable ride for street and the only way to know is by riding in various cars or trying various setups for yourself.

              Bushings should be chosen to match the application, running ultra stiff suspension and OEM bushings will force the bushings to flex and absorb more suspension movement before actually making the shock do work which often times results in the driver feeling like the car is too stiff or jumpy on crappy roads.

              Vice Versa, Running ultra stiff bushings and soft suspension will make the car feel very tight and direct but handling will still be poor due to the amount of suspension movement being translated into soft suspension that can't handle the extra work its being forced to do thanks to the stiff bushings.

              I do agree with not needing to replace both sway bars, many find getting rid of the rear sway bar helps with handling, depending on your application you may still find adding a bigger front sway bar to be helpful as it will add some roll stiffness without requiring you to run uncomfortably stiff front springs.

              Ultimately everybody will have a different opinion on an aftermarket part and there's no right/wrong answer. my wifes car is running the solid rubber e36m3 bushings that Wanganstyle mentioned because we use that for road trips, long drives and general grocery getting duties. my car has the treehouse racing bushings because of the clearance needed for bigger diameter headers, the added flex created by running 245 to 275 wide sticky tires and the fact that its mostly only used for cruises/twisty road drives and auto-x/track days.

              Both setup's work just as well at what they do, they just do it differently.
              -Brad
              My E30: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...50#post3916850

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                #22
                LOL im happy to see someone else knows how bad these roads are here in SF. I basically drive my e30 like a maniac to dodge potholes and random dips in the concrete. I bought the car with the coilovers so im keeping them. Adjusted the shock to full soft and its actually pretty decent. I dont think i plan to actually upgrade the sway bar size but just refresh the bushings and endlinks. I have a E34 also but i have that in upgraded sways with Yellow koni sport shocks. Honestly a perfect ride for SF streets. I see you are also in the bay area? We should meet sometime. Im always down to meet some e30 locals since i know of none in my area lol.

                Comment


                  #23
                  Originally posted by maclogos View Post
                  LOL im happy to see someone else knows how bad these roads are here in SF. I basically drive my e30 like a maniac to dodge potholes and random dips in the concrete. I bought the car with the coilovers so im keeping them. Adjusted the shock to full soft and its actually pretty decent. I dont think i plan to actually upgrade the sway bar size but just refresh the bushings and endlinks. I have a E34 also but i have that in upgraded sways with Yellow koni sport shocks. Honestly a perfect ride for SF streets. I see you are also in the bay area? We should meet sometime. Im always down to meet some e30 locals since i know of none in my area lol.
                  Word. Beers and bmw

                  I bought my e34 with gc coils and it was ok for sf streets but man dodging potholes is so natural I actually forget I do it.

                  Rip that e34 it saved my life.

                  Sf roads are horrid I lived there 06-10 until rolling over to the warmer east bay



                  Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
                  OBD1 M54/M52TU swap as a M50b25

                  Z4 non powered steering rack fits e30



                  Euro e46 2005/6 320d 6mt gearbox into E30 with M20 hardy and beck 1985 327s engine

                  Comment


                    #24
                    As someone who owns a set, you don't buy them for clearing the exhaust. You buy them for the additional caster gained. These will be the harshest thing you will put on your suspension.

                    And yes, huge fuh raze points.
                    1985 M10b18. 70maybewhpoffury. Over engineered S50b30 murica BBQ swap in progress.

                    Originally posted by DEV0 E30
                    You'd chugg this butt. I know you would. Ain't gotta' lie to kick it brostantinople.

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Originally posted by Holland View Post
                      As someone who owns a set, you don't buy them for clearing the exhaust. You buy them for the additional caster gained. These will be the harshest thing you will put on your suspension.

                      And yes, huge fuh raze points.
                      As another person that owns a set, I bought them to clear the exhaust and the caster gained was just a bonus. Maybe I'm spoiled by AZ roads, but I honestly don't experience any of the harshness other claim. *edit* Oh you're in AZ also, well then I'm stumped...

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                        #26
                        question about Treehouse Racing control arm bushings.

                        I have the bimmer world version of these b/c there cheaper and sell the replacement delrin inserts


                        Originally posted by Wanganstyle View Post
                        SF roads are garbage compared to your nice roads.
                        San Francisco= crappiest roads in the USA. Worse than Detroit (I grew up in the midwest)




                        I beg to differ I bet you Brooklyn roads are worse!
                        Last edited by jrockbk; 01-28-2014, 10:27 PM.
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                          #27
                          So is SE MI roads, so basically we concluded that the whole nation's roads are falling apart. .. ;)

                          I was reading all through this and was about to drop the 2c's on treehouse, 'till I came across the bimmerworld alternative.

                          How does the busing material act-up in sub-zero temps? not worried about harshness, moving to Toronto soon where the streets are fairly smooth...
                          I'm not unfamiliar with solid and hard bushings, every car I built had them but never dealt with delrin, usually urethane...

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                            #28
                            Bumping this old thread up as I too am worried about cold weather performance. I am moving to Victoria next year but still will spend a decent amount of time in Edmonton where we go to -40*C in the winter. And yeah I still drive my E30 around in that weather, never falters. I am planning an engine swap later but already have the Treehouse CABs and my current tired old stockers wobble something fierce. Will I compromise anything? I don't mind a harsh ride at all.
                            1990 325i Touring - The Bonsai Bimmer - Patiently Waiting
                            1984 316 Coupe - The Base Model - Pain in the Ass
                            1988 750iL - The Daily Driver
                            ...And a couple others...

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                              #29
                              For what it's worth, I used the bimmerworld track cabs similar to the treehouse and was able to fit larger euro spec headers and Euro supersprint header backs. They are slightly cheaper too I believe and have replaceable delrin inserts (treehouse might as well, can't remember)
                              CENTERBAR MOTORSPORT - Check out my small Bimmer/Beamer parts and custom projects business!
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                              The Fleet:
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                                #30
                                Had the cast E34 M50 manifolds and the front "bank" angled straight towards the subframe. They were also pretty heavy too.

                                I opted for the OBDII manifolds since they are tubular and I can cut and reweld the front piece myself very easily. From all the ebay longtube reps I've heard, they're very zingy and raspy, probably due to their thin walled piping and cheap stainless material. OBDII manifolds are nice and thick and can be found for the same price as the ebays, if not cheaper.

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                                '90 325is Schwarz
                                5 lug'd 24V Turbo on VEMS

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