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318is M60 swap

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    #16
    Originally posted by JGood View Post
    Bigger hammer.

    A brand new clutch fork from the dealer is $20.

    Do you feel anything on the splines where it's getting stuck? The disc is obviously getting caught up somewhere on the splines... Find that spot and clean it/file it down.
    Looking at the spline, nothing stood out as hanging it up. I will check it again.

    Should I be hammering on the clutch fork or the back of the pressure plate?

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      #17
      Are you going to reuse any of those parts? I don't know how hard you're hammering. I guess you could damage the PP if you're swinging a 10lb sledge into it. The clutch disc needs to slide friction-free across the splines in order to 1) install the trans, and 2) have a functioning clutch. So even if you don't damage the PP, you may be replacing the clutch kit, or at least the disc, anyway. I'd be replacing it regardless, but I understand if you're on a budget.

      Maybe the fork can only pivot forward so far. Once you have the clutch pushed to the end of the splines, can you grab it and pull?

      There is something on the splines stopping it. The disc and splines are the only part of the entire assembly making contact. It wouldn't take much, just a slight burr. Maybe when the flywheel grenaded it sent some debris into the splines.
      85 325e m60b44 6 speed / 89 535i
      e30 restoration and V8 swap
      24 Hours of Lemons e30 build

      Comment


        #18
        Originally posted by JGood View Post
        Are you going to reuse any of those parts? I don't know how hard you're hammering. I guess you could damage the PP if you're swinging a 10lb sledge into it. The clutch disc needs to slide friction-free across the splines in order to 1) install the trans, and 2) have a functioning clutch. So even if you don't damage the PP, you may be replacing the clutch kit, or at least the disc, anyway. I'd be replacing it regardless, but I understand if you're on a budget.

        Maybe the fork can only pivot forward so far. Once you have the clutch pushed to the end of the splines, can you grab it and pull?

        There is something on the splines stopping it. The disc and splines are the only part of the entire assembly making contact. It wouldn't take much, just a slight burr. Maybe when the flywheel grenaded it sent some debris into the splines.
        Ah ok, I will take a closer look the splines.

        I am only using a 2lbs hammer and a long 1/2" extension. Putting the extension on the pressure plate and giving it a whack.

        Not planning on re-using the pressure plate and flywheel. I want to get a heavier duty clutch anyhow, keeping my eye out for a lightweight flywheel since I only have half of a stock one.

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          #19
          Tap it, turn 180, tap again, etc. You may be able to walk it off the shaft that way.

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            #20
            How are you putting the extension on the PP? If you go straight in the hole, you should be on the fork, which will push on the throw out bearing, putting equal load on the center of the pressure plate. That's what it's designed to do.
            85 325e m60b44 6 speed / 89 535i
            e30 restoration and V8 swap
            24 Hours of Lemons e30 build

            Comment


              #21
              Originally posted by JGood View Post
              How are you putting the extension on the PP? If you go straight in the hole, you should be on the fork, which will push on the throw out bearing, putting equal load on the center of the pressure plate. That's what it's designed to do.
              At an angle, very awkward one, probably why I am not getting much force. I hit on the fork a few times but worried it may bend.

              Hoping I get snowed in tomorrow so I can mess with it some more.

              Comment


                #22
                If you're not re-using the assembly (I wouldn't) then push the whole thing back down the spline towards the trans/fork and lube the spline with penetrating oil and used motor oil.

                Then follow J-Goods instructions. That whole thing should slide off by hand or by sitting the trans on the mounting face and letting gravity to the work.

                Comment


                  #23
                  Just hit the fork. It's $20. You're cocking the whole assembly at an angle by hitting the PP, possibly even damaging the splines. That fork is designed solely to transfer force in the same way you'd be hitting it.
                  85 325e m60b44 6 speed / 89 535i
                  e30 restoration and V8 swap
                  24 Hours of Lemons e30 build

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Do you have a pulley/gear puller? Not sure what the distance between the bolt holes in that flywheel are though. Autozone rents tools out for free, see if they've got a puller that'll work/is big enough.

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Originally posted by jalopi View Post
                      Do you have a pulley/gear puller? Not sure what the distance between the bolt holes in that flywheel are though. Autozone rents tools out for free, see if they've got a puller that'll work/is big enough.
                      Couldn't find one big enough, that was my first idea.

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Hm. Got an air hammer? I would use the fourth bit from the left - you can put an extension over the tip of that bit for an effective lengthening (the alternative is to have a 1.5" version of the bit. very nice, takes the slop out)



                        As long as you're good with modulating the trigger on air hammers, you shouldn't hurt anything, just go light. The key here is consistent multiple hits, not necessarily powerful ones.

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                          #27
                          It's snowing a ton. Should have some time to get that off the transmission, or at least go at it again.

                          Anyone with specs on the m62 heads? Would they bolt straight to the m60, would swapping the cams and gears be a straight swap?

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Curious as to why you want to bolt the M62 heads onto the M60? Most people do it the other way around.
                            Originally posted by 36brua
                            Isn't that what these forums are all about making stuff easier... OO no never mind this is r3v...
                            Patryk:up:
                            Instagram: @parkus08

                            91 BMW 325is ///M-Tech II
                            08 VW .:R32
                            04 Audi A4 Avant 1.8TQ

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Originally posted by P Arkus View Post
                              Curious as to why you want to bolt the M62 heads onto the M60? Most people do it the other way around.
                              Um looking to lower the compression some maybe. Not sure if the heads would do it. Or by how much they would.

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Originally posted by LoneWolf View Post
                                Um looking to lower the compression some maybe. Not sure if the heads would do it. Or by how much they would.
                                You'd be taking the worst parts of both engines and combining them. You should be looking at doing the opposite, if anything. Reducing the discplacement by .4 so that you might drop compression a little is counter productive.

                                Why not just get thicker head gaskets? And why do you want lower compression to begin with?
                                85 325e m60b44 6 speed / 89 535i
                                e30 restoration and V8 swap
                                24 Hours of Lemons e30 build

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