advice on lock systme

e30runner · 06-21-2012, 10:40 PM

I tried posting this in the general technical thread but got no replies so im hoping I can get some help on here. I read through most of the threads on repairs for the lock system but there was some items I needed advice on. First off, to me the easiest possibilty seems to be to buy a full lock set with a key that I found on ebay for $110 shipped. Here are the issues I have:

1. All 3 of my keys are copies, not originals, so all of them you have to jiggle the crap out of to get the driver door lock or ignition to turn.

-possible solution I found is to purchase a rebuild kit but I would need one for both doors, ignition and trunk? rougly $35x4=$140

2. Keys dont seem to work at all on passenger door, but it does lock/unlock when I lock/unlock the drivers side. The key spins about 1/8th turn and lock pin seems to move but it wont lock or unlock.

-possible same solution as for #1 but then who knows if its a bad key copy?
-possible that the lock is just jammed/stuck so just some grease?

3. Keys dont want to insert into the trunk at all which means a rebuild of the lock but also it seems the actuator doesnt lock the trunk when the doors are locked. How can I test the problem?

-replace central locking system?
-replace the actuator?

Any feedback is greatly appreciated.

delatlanta1281 · 06-21-2012, 10:55 PM

Buy another car with working locks, remove/ replace, sell car.
done.

E30_Pare · 06-21-2012, 11:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by delatlanta1281

Buy another car with working locks, remove/ replace, sell car.
done.

This ^^^. Stupid central locking system.

jlevie · 06-22-2012, 05:44 AM

Step one would be to buy a couple of new keys from your dealer. Then see which locks don't work right with the new keys and get BMW rebuild kits for those.

e30runner · 06-22-2012, 08:27 AM

Thanks Jim. Is there any kits to rebuild or test the actuators because trunk doesnt work at all.

jlevie · 06-22-2012, 08:43 AM

Which part of the trunk lock isn't working? Via the key or the central locking? If the central locking, use a test light to see if the lock/unlock signals are reaching the actuator. If they are, replace the actuator. If via the key, wait until you get new keys to see if the cylinder is bad.

Ferdinand · 06-22-2012, 08:59 AM

I used to have a 4-door 86 325e. It had multiple issues with the door lock system, the most annoying one being that sometimes the doors would go into double-lock mode all by themselves forcing us to all have to climb in and out the driver's door because none of the other doors could be unlocked.

First you need to solve any mechanical issues of the lock cylinders themselves. It should always be possible to lock/unlock at least the driver's door from outside with the key, or from inside by pushing down/pulling up the lock pin.

As long as the driver's door lock works reliably, then you can use the electrical central locking system to lock/unlock the other doors, fuel filler door, and trunk, regardless of whether those other lock cylinders are mechanically sound.

Testing the electrical components can be done relatively easily from the connector to the central locking controller. It's mounted behind the driver's side kick panel. Remove the hood release lever, unscrew the kick panel covering the radio speaker, and the lock controller is located down there below the speaker.

Unplug the lock controller from its connector. That part is important. Do not attempt to make any electrical connections to any parts of the lock system before first unplugging the controller module, because some of the circuits are shorted inside the controller when it is at rest.

My electrical problems ended up being inside the controller module. Rather than replacing the module, I chucked that away and rigged my own switch using a standard sunroof rocker switch, and a small push button mounted in place of the fog light switch which I didn't need anyway. Rock the switch one way to lock, the other way to unlock the doors. Holding down the small push button while rocking the bigger switch would activate/deactivate the double-lock feature.

This is how the switches were wired up.

For testing purposes, with the central lock controller module unplugged!, you can stick jumper wires into the connector as follows:

To lock doors:
Momentarily put +12v onto pin-1, the Blue lock wire.
while grounding pin-2, the White unlock wire.

i.e. connect Pin-3 (+12v) to Pin-1 (lock)
and connect Pin-4 (Grnd) to Pin-2 (unlock).

To unlock doors:
Momentarily put +12v onto pin-2, the White unlock wire.
while grounding pin-1, the Blue lock wire.

i.e. connect Pin-3 (+12v) to Pin-2 (unlock)
and connect Pin-4 (Grnd) to Pin-1 (lock).

To engage/disengage the double-lock mechanism, while doing the above, also connect Pin-11 the Black deadbolt wire, to Pin-2 the White unlock wire.

If that doesn't work for you, then you have issues with the actuators themselves or their mechanical connections to the door latches, or you have wiring issues in the connectors to the doors.

oldmann · 06-22-2012, 09:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by e30runner

I tried posting this in the general technical thread but got no replies so im hoping I can get some help on here. I read through most of the threads on repairs for the lock system but there was some items I needed advice on. First off, to me the easiest possibilty seems to be to buy a full lock set with a key that I found on ebay for $110 shipped. Here are the issues I have:

1. All 3 of my keys are copies, not originals, so all of them you have to jiggle the crap out of to get the driver door lock or ignition to turn.

-possible solution I found is to purchase a rebuild kit but I would need one for both doors, ignition and trunk? rougly $35x4=$140

2. Keys dont seem to work at all on passenger door, but it does lock/unlock when I lock/unlock the drivers side. The key spins about 1/8th turn and lock pin seems to move but it wont lock or unlock.

-possible same solution as for #1 but then who knows if its a bad key copy?
-possible that the lock is just jammed/stuck so just some grease?

3. Keys dont want to insert into the trunk at all which means a rebuild of the lock but also it seems the actuator doesnt lock the trunk when the doors are locked. How can I test the problem?

-replace central locking system?
-replace the actuator?

Any feedback is greatly appreciated.

Mechanicals 1st, Go to BMW dealer with your registration and ID and they can make a new key from vin, go from there. Only replace whats broke, rebuillding all the locks is a PITA.

e30runner · 06-22-2012, 09:52 AM

Wow that is so much help guys, i'll keep you posted to what my results are. I am keeping my fingers crossed that in 25 years the locks were never replaced and the vin number will produce the correct key from the dealer.

spdracrm3 · 06-22-2012, 10:39 AM

another option is to buy the lock kit which has every lock in the car
51-21-1-904-727
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...=41&fg=50&hl=4

see this post on S14.net with a pic of the kit
http://www.s14.net/forums/showthread...hlight=tumbler

mikeedler · 06-22-2012, 12:13 PM

buy 1 new key from BMW, then just buy a keyless entry system for 30 dollar on ebay and install it. mine has been working for years, and is awesome to have the remote- almost feel like I have a cool e46!

Shangsta · 06-22-2012, 01:58 PM

subbing

06-21-2012, 10:55 PM	#2
delatlanta1281 Dart Master Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Atlanta Posts: 9,176 Images: 2	Buy another car with working locks, remove/ replace, sell car. done. __________________ "RLG Atlanta" coming soon.....

06-22-2012, 05:44 AM	#4
jlevie R3V OG Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Huntsville, AL Posts: 11,277	Step one would be to buy a couple of new keys from your dealer. Then see which locks don't work right with the new keys and get BMW rebuild kits for those. __________________ The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen. Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL NASA & BMWCCA Certified Instructor NASA MidSouth Spec E30 Series Director

06-22-2012, 08:43 AM	#6
jlevie R3V OG Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Huntsville, AL Posts: 11,277	Which part of the trunk lock isn't working? Via the key or the central locking? If the central locking, use a test light to see if the lock/unlock signals are reaching the actuator. If they are, replace the actuator. If via the key, wait until you get new keys to see if the cylinder is bad. __________________ The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen. Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL NASA & BMWCCA Certified Instructor NASA MidSouth Spec E30 Series Director

06-22-2012, 10:39 AM	#10
spdracrm3 Wrencher Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Renton Wa Posts: 252 Images: 21	another option is to buy the lock kit which has every lock in the car 51-21-1-904-727 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...=41&fg=50&hl=4 see this post on S14.net with a pic of the kit http://www.s14.net/forums/showthread...hlight=tumbler __________________ Angus 88 E30M3 X2 89 325IX 92 R100GS/PD

06-21-2012, 10:40 PM	#1
e30runner Advanced Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: CA Posts: 123	advice on lock systme I tried posting this in the general technical thread but got no replies so im hoping I can get some help on here. I read through most of the threads on repairs for the lock system but there was some items I needed advice on. First off, to me the easiest possibilty seems to be to buy a full lock set with a key that I found on ebay for $110 shipped. Here are the issues I have: 1. All 3 of my keys are copies, not originals, so all of them you have to jiggle the crap out of to get the driver door lock or ignition to turn. -possible solution I found is to purchase a rebuild kit but I would need one for both doors, ignition and trunk? rougly $35x4=$140 2. Keys dont seem to work at all on passenger door, but it does lock/unlock when I lock/unlock the drivers side. The key spins about 1/8th turn and lock pin seems to move but it wont lock or unlock. -possible same solution as for #1 but then who knows if its a bad key copy? -possible that the lock is just jammed/stuck so just some grease? 3. Keys dont want to insert into the trunk at all which means a rebuild of the lock but also it seems the actuator doesnt lock the trunk when the doors are locked. How can I test the problem? -replace central locking system? -replace the actuator? Any feedback is greatly appreciated.

06-22-2012, 08:27 AM	#5
e30runner Advanced Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: CA Posts: 123	Thanks Jim. Is there any kits to rebuild or test the actuators because trunk doesnt work at all.

06-22-2012, 08:59 AM	#7
Ferdinand Wrencher Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Ottawa Posts: 204	I used to have a 4-door 86 325e. It had multiple issues with the door lock system, the most annoying one being that sometimes the doors would go into double-lock mode all by themselves forcing us to all have to climb in and out the driver's door because none of the other doors could be unlocked. First you need to solve any mechanical issues of the lock cylinders themselves. It should always be possible to lock/unlock at least the driver's door from outside with the key, or from inside by pushing down/pulling up the lock pin. As long as the driver's door lock works reliably, then you can use the electrical central locking system to lock/unlock the other doors, fuel filler door, and trunk, regardless of whether those other lock cylinders are mechanically sound. Testing the electrical components can be done relatively easily from the connector to the central locking controller. It's mounted behind the driver's side kick panel. Remove the hood release lever, unscrew the kick panel covering the radio speaker, and the lock controller is located down there below the speaker. Unplug the lock controller from its connector. That part is important. Do not attempt to make any electrical connections to any parts of the lock system before first unplugging the controller module, because some of the circuits are shorted inside the controller when it is at rest. My electrical problems ended up being inside the controller module. Rather than replacing the module, I chucked that away and rigged my own switch using a standard sunroof rocker switch, and a small push button mounted in place of the fog light switch which I didn't need anyway. Rock the switch one way to lock, the other way to unlock the doors. Holding down the small push button while rocking the bigger switch would activate/deactivate the double-lock feature. This is how the switches were wired up. For testing purposes, with the central lock controller module unplugged!, you can stick jumper wires into the connector as follows: To lock doors: Momentarily put +12v onto pin-1, the Blue lock wire. while grounding pin-2, the White unlock wire. i.e. connect Pin-3 (+12v) to Pin-1 (lock) and connect Pin-4 (Grnd) to Pin-2 (unlock). To unlock doors: Momentarily put +12v onto pin-2, the White unlock wire. while grounding pin-1, the Blue lock wire. i.e. connect Pin-3 (+12v) to Pin-2 (unlock) and connect Pin-4 (Grnd) to Pin-1 (lock). To engage/disengage the double-lock mechanism, while doing the above, also connect Pin-11 the Black deadbolt wire, to Pin-2 the White unlock wire. If that doesn't work for you, then you have issues with the actuators themselves or their mechanical connections to the door latches, or you have wiring issues in the connectors to the doors.

06-22-2012, 09:52 AM	#9
e30runner Advanced Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: CA Posts: 123	Wow that is so much help guys, i'll keep you posted to what my results are. I am keeping my fingers crossed that in 25 years the locks were never replaced and the vin number will produce the correct key from the dealer.

06-22-2012, 12:13 PM	#11
mikeedler R3V OG Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Deutschland Posts: 6,457 Images: 16	buy 1 new key from BMW, then just buy a keyless entry system for 30 dollar on ebay and install it. mine has been working for years, and is awesome to have the remote- almost feel like I have a cool e46!