PNW Chit Chat thread

[Pdxseth]

Well this explains my rough starts all winter.


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[EN318isPDX]

lil duct tape and you'll be good for another winter...

[djjerme]

Seth, I have a good used one. Let me know if you are interested, I'll grab it from storage.

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[Pdxseth]

Seth, I have a good used one. Let me know if you are interested, I'll grab it from storage.

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Thanks, I'm just gonna pick up a new one this weekend.


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[e30austin]

we are the ones getting the vacation lol

Lololol

Seth, I'll have you a nice new one by the time you're awake tomorrow if you want.

[Matt-B]

if boots are ripping, you might need motor mounts

[Matt-B]

Anybody ever used Portland Powder Coating?

I use metal craft in Salmon Creek

[Pdxseth]

PNW Chit Chat thread

if boots are ripping, you might need motor mounts

I bought the motor mounts brand new from BMW like 3 months ago

Boot ripped because it's 30 years old.....

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[Matt-B]

ever try m42 mounts? I hear anything from an m42 never wears out, and there race proven to 1000 bhp on stock internals

you should get 1

[bmwm42]

Oh for fuck sakes matt let it die already

[IronJoe]

Can anyone lend their thoughts here?

My car is hard to start after the swap. It cranks for a loooong time (10 secs?) before finally popping, and then starting. It's almost as if there's no fuel pressure in the system - but that can't be right, can it? Because it eventually starts, and runs just fine. If it's been running a while and I shut it off, then restart, it catches right away. Any ideas you have I'd really appreciate.


Also, a pic.

[TobyB]

nyone have any experiance with the koni str shocks?

Yeah, they damp "ok" for a street car- but I got to use the Koni warranty twice in
the first 3 years, which is a real pain in the ass. Having run yellows, they are a little
stiffer than the full soft setting, but not a whole lot. Low compression damping,
moderate rebound.
Had they managed to keep their oil in, I'da said "they're fine for what they are" but
after the second one dumped all its oil AND the valve stack, I lost faith.

This was just for commuting- I think I may have done 3 or four laps total with that car,
on a DE day.

'would not buy again'

t

[djjerme]

Can anyone lend their thoughts here?

My car is hard to start after the swap. It cranks for a loooong time (10 secs?) before finally popping, and then starting. It's almost as if there's no fuel pressure in the system - but that can't be right, can it? Because it eventually starts, and runs just fine. If it's been running a while and I shut it off, then restart, it catches right away. Any ideas you have I'd really appreciate.

Looking good!

Have you pulled the tank and checked the sock? Also, check the vent lines to the tank. It sounds like it's having a little trouble building up pressure to the rail. If you have access to a fuel pressure test gauge, that would tell you a lot as well.

the starting when it's hot is because there is still some residual pressure/fuel in the line and it's covering the time it takes to build..

I assume the regulator is the one that came out of the old M3, correct?

Really, you need to get your hands on a pressure gauge. I have a Harbor Freight one, but I'm down in Portland.

[M10Power]

Fuel pressure testing

Do you notice any difference if you 'prime' the fuel line by turning the key to 'acc' before turning all the way to ignition? When my cold start injector was acting up, i would do that - just turn the key part way, let the fuel pressure build, then ignite. (Followed by rich exhaust fumes.)
You still should so some diagnostics with a fuel pressure gauge, but this might focus your work. (If the fuel pump or regulator is bad, my suggestion may highlight the lack of pressure.)

[QUOTE=IronJoe;4752439]Can anyone lend their thoughts here?

[IronJoe]

Have you pulled the tank and checked the sock? Also, check the vent lines to the tank. It sounds like it's having a little trouble building up pressure to the rail. If you have access to a fuel pressure test gauge, that would tell you a lot as well.

the starting when it's hot is because there is still some residual pressure/fuel in the line and it's covering the time it takes to build..

I assume the regulator is the one that came out of the old M3, correct?

Really, you need to get your hands on a pressure gauge. I have a Harbor Freight one, but I'm down in Portland.

I haven't done much troubleshooting yet. I am also low on gas (only put a little bit in for testing) but I'm not sure that would cause this issue.

Yes everything engine wise is from the M3. New fuel hoses all around. I haven't changed the fuel filter but it's on my list. Good call on checking fuel pressure, I might be able to find a fuel pressure gauge to test.

Do you notice any difference if you 'prime' the fuel line by turning the key to 'acc' before turning all the way to ignition? When my cold start injector was acting up, i would do that - just turn the key part way, let the fuel pressure build, then ignite. (Followed by rich exhaust fumes.)
You still should so some diagnostics with a fuel pressure gauge, but this might focus your work. (If the fuel pump or regulator is bad, my suggestion may highlight the lack of pressure.)

No difference I'm afraid. I had that idea today so I left the key on for a minute or so, then cranked it from cold, no change. Still took ~10 secs to start popping. After that it stumbled for a bit. And then finally started - once it starts it idles fine, sounds great, revs well.