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E30 Getrag 260 swap earlier vs later

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    E30 Getrag 260 swap earlier vs later

    Hello all,

    Last year I replaced ~1986 e30 Getrag 260 with an older version. I could not find good info on their compatibility online, so I am posting this here, hopefully it is of some use.

    Hi res photos here:



    --

    Some notes on replacing a newer Getrag 260 with an older one, on a BMW E30 3 series or E28 5 series.

    Here, the original transmission was in a 1986 325es. I assume that it was original to that car. It would not go into fourth gear, necessitating replacement.

    The older replacement transmission going into this 325es could've been out of an e 30 or e 28.

    Original transmission part number stamps:
    Front half of case: 260.0.1270.90 ( 260 0 1270 90 )
    Rear half of case: 260.0.1060.91 (260 0 1060 91 )
    Date stamp inside bellhousing: 85/86

    Replacement transmission part number stamps:
    Front half of case: 260.0.1270.90 ( 260 0 1270 90 )
    Rear half of case: 260.0.1060.90 ( 260 0 1060 90 )
    Date stamp inside bellhousing: 83/84

    So far as I can tell the external dimensions are the same. This includes the stud spacing for the slave cylinder. Stud spacing at output shaft flange was the same but different design.

    The difference between the two is the mounting for the shift platform. At first, I thought that perhaps I could use metal bow P/N 25 11 2 225 369 as bolt-on workaround. It was not a bolt-on solution. It required bending, grinding, washers and fabricating spacers to fit. Even the shift rod had to be ground.

    In the end, it works acceptably but I can feel a slight difference in the position of the shifter. I have played with reversing/adjusting all components of the shifter linkage to some benefit. I may have gotten better results if I had spent more time getting my fabricated solution more exactly aligned to replicate the original position of the shift platform connection.

    Conclusion: swapping out a newer Getrag 260 and replacing it with an older was is doable, but enough of a PITA that given the choice I would happily pay more for the correct used transmission, or sourced the correct shifter platform and related parts.

    Other notes:

    Removing the output shaft flange nut was very difficult. It took a full two minutes of torching and an impact wrench to get it off. The vibration collar around the flange was char-broiled at this point so I've done without it. I haven't noticed any more vibration as a result. Also, complicating this swap was the build date of car (5/86). This corresponds with a mid-year changeover of design affecting the clutch, the shifter platform, and the guibo. While I knew that I had the newer style of shifter platform, I had to buy one of each clutch kit and guibo. I can't remember if the clutch and guibo ended up being the newer or older design; the point is that the reality of what was on the car did not correspond exactly to the month stated in the parts catalog.
    Attached Files

    #2
    Date stamp inside bellhousing: 85/86
    If there are dots around the date, that will tell you year and month. It's cast in.

    Interesting that 5/86 is later. 2/86 was earlier. For the output flange, a long bar on the
    socket, and another bolted to the flange does it for me. I stand on it. And bounce!

    t
    now, sometimes I just mess with people. It's more entertaining that way. george graves

    Comment


      #3
      Easiest way is just to look at the top of the trans. It'll have two "ears" on top of the later ones, its where the carrier clips in. Earlier ones don't have it.

      Both model gearboxes have holes in the back of the rear housing for the series 1 style shift plate. It's easier to go from a series 2, back to a series 1, than it is the other way around.

      If you do go the other way around, one quick solution is to use a trans tunnel mounted shifter, like ones from AKG, etc. Don't have to worry about mounting the shifter then, only need the right length linkage.
      Just a little project im working on
      - http://www.lse30.com -

      Comment


        #4
        I'm not sure how on point this is but the shifter rod on g260 from an e is 180mm vs the 187mm for an i.

        AMHIK
        Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

        https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
        Alice the Time Capsule
        http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
        87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

        Comment


          #5
          This is old, but I've been digging through archives searching for photos for a project I'm working on and stumbled upon this thread.

          For anyone who finds this thread, I *believe* just using the bracket/bushings that came on the early model e30 (25111208580) would allow the M3 shift arm bow (25112225369) to bolt right up without the brackets in the OP.
          1990 Brilliantrot 325iS Build Thread
          1989 Zinnoberrot M3 Build Thread

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