Oil Cooler Opinions

[Digitalwave]

Since lots of SpecE30 and PRO3 guys run without oil coolers on their M20's, I've had it in my head that I didn't need one. However, my motor is mildly "built" and I want to protect my investment. I have a 4.10 and cruising on the highway at ~4,000 RPM's for an extended period, I have seen my oil temps reach 230*. I'm afraid I will be 260+ during track sessions.

There seems to be plenty of space to run a 19 or 25 row oil cooler in front of the radiator, behind the kidney for good air flow.

My question is: what brands are preferred? Is Mishimoto acceptable or should I get something like a Setrab? Is the stock oil cooler block with the thermostat the way to go? Mishimoto and Mocal also make thermostatic oil blocks, that have lower temperature thermostats than the stock one. The Mishimoto also has NPT ports for my gauges already drilled and tapped which is a nice feature. I am currently running a sandwich plate, which I would prefer not to run on top of a distribution block as well.

TIA

[Emre]

I had a B&M on my old E30. On my current racecar (190E 2.3-16 Cosworth) I'm using a Mishimoto. Any of the major brands are fine.

As for how to plumb it, everything depends on use. For a dedicated track/race car, I'd skip the thermostat. For a street car, the thermostat is a good idea.

As long as you're going down this road, might as well add a remote oil filter housing and switch to Ford or GM filters. I use a Mustang housing designed for the Fram HP1, which lets me use race filters from Wix.

[Digitalwave]

The car is a dedicated track build, but I do not have a trailer so it gets driven to and from the track. Also take it to cars and coffee once a month. It doesn't seem much street use at all.

Is skipping the thermostat just a matter of keeping the setup as simple as possible?

Thanks for the info.

[TobyB]

I like the thermostat- if they fail, they seem to fail open, and that's not that much different
than no thermostat, worst case.

Yes, if you ditch the whole thermostat housing, plumbing gets pretty clean, easy, and trouble- free.

If you keep the thermostat, you can use a good hunk of the stock hoses, have AN fittings
attached to that, and then run AN to a cooler.

I disagree mildly about the oil cooler- I found that when it wasn't working, I saw
oil temps over 250f in the pan, and if it was a hot day, running in a pack it would climb
even higher.
With it, it stays in the 220f range, reliably.

So I run it. Stock.

t

[djjerme]

...most of the PRO3 guys do run at the very least the stock one.

It's just extra insurance on your TWELVE THOUSAND DOLLAR ENGINE REBUILD SONNNNNNN!

[TobyB]

Well, that would explain my finishing position problem, I guess- I think I spent $200 for a used head
and a gasket kit. Oh, and maybe a couple of valves... because parts engine with
broken timing belt...

t

[SkiFree]

Had a number of the mishimotos and ebay specials fail. Stopped selling them and went back to Setrab.

Here's a decent combo, maybe it would be helpful to you. I have the part number spreadsheet around. If you want it, shoot me a message with your email.

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showpost.php?p=3996471&postcount=211

[squidmaster]

Had a number of the mishimotos and ebay specials fail. Stopped selling them and went back to Setrab.

Here's a decent combo, maybe it would be helpful to you. I have the part number spreadsheet around. If you want it, shoot me a message with your email.

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...&postcount=211

how did the mishimotos fail? I've always trusted and used their radiators and interfoolers, and was going to be purchasing a mishimoto oil cooler for my m20.

[djjerme]

Well, that would explain my finishing position problem, I guess- I think I spent $200 for a used head
and a gasket kit. Oh, and maybe a couple of valves... because parts engine with
broken timing belt...

t

You and me both.


The only motor I built for mine was the first motor, that got taken out by a bolt that attached the AFM to the airbox coming loose and demolishing cylinder 1. After that, just what ever long block we found lying around the shop.

[rwh11385]

You and me both.

Our race engine's head was like free off craigslist (eta)

I'm not sure if it is the lacking of oil cooling, lack of baffling, or that it was a rolling parts car with an unknown history that has a bit of bearing wear showing up in UOA...

But we scored a decently priced i engine off R3V and will definitely snag a 325i oil cooler along with adding baffling when we swap it in and possibly go Chump (for now).

[SkiFree]

how did the mishimotos fail? I've always trusted and used their radiators and interfoolers, and was going to be purchasing a mishimoto oil cooler for my m20.

Bear in mind, this is from a experience pool of 150-200pcs Mishimoto-branded coolers.

4-5 of them had leaking fins the first time out. 4-5 of them had some sort of manufacturing slag blocking fins.

Not too bad when looking at the bigger picture, it just wasn't worth the headache/risk as a seller. Prior to the convenience of onesy-twosy ordering from Mishimoto, I'd just order them in batches from the manufacturer in China (via Godspeed). This is what you see with the ebay-specialists nowadays.

Setrabs never had a manufacturing defects and were able to take a LOT more abuse.

[Sh3rpak!ng]

I can't speak directly towards the m20 since I don't have one anymore, but in the s/m5x world many add oil coolers when tracking and as an aside these motors tend to be very sensitive to water temps. That said, I run a massive radiator and never have had any issue with either water temps or oil temps in any condition and I do not have an oil cooler. There have been no conditions (autox, track, highway, canyons even at 90* outside) that my coolant has gone over 185* and oil has gone more than ~210*. I have to imagine the massive radiator, fan, high flow water pump have something to do with that.

Of course it also may mean I haven't pushed the car hard enough :D

Just something else to consider. You may already have a thick radiator.

[Digitalwave]

I have a Mishimoto radiator with a Spal puller fan and I've never had any cooling issues (temps are 182-192 on the track). I know water temp is a consideration as well but I think I am still going to need/want an oil cooler anyways.

[squidmaster]

Bear in mind, this is from a experience pool of 150-200pcs Mishimoto-branded coolers.

4-5 of them had leaking fins the first time out. 4-5 of them had some sort of manufacturing slag blocking fins.

Not too bad when looking at the bigger picture, it just wasn't worth the headache/risk as a seller. Prior to the convenience of onesy-twosy ordering from Mishimoto, I'd just order them in batches from the manufacturer in China (via Godspeed). This is what you see with the ebay-specialists nowadays.

Setrabs never had a manufacturing defects and were able to take a LOT more abuse.

Am I misreading? Are you saying mishimoto produces their stuff overseas alongside godspeed? I was under the impression they were all manufactured in-house in New England? Setrab coolers are also 3-5 times the price of the mishimoto coolers so I would hope they would be better quality haha.

Do you have any setrab units in stock? Could you shoot me some prices?

Cheers

Sent from my Robin using Tapatalk

[SkiFree]

You read correctly, any difference is down to internal QC.

As for the Setrab, they certainly are not cheap, haha. I don't work at IE any more, so I don't sell them anymore, sorry. For the cheapest Setrabs, keep an eye out on Ebay. A couple NASCAR guys sell inspected units with only a weekend's working time on them. At least that was the case a couple years ago.