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'89 318i 6 speed m50b32tu turbo swap build

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    #31
    Still nothing much to report. Funds are low and waiting on parts (due in july) has left me de-motivated.

    Last weekend, just to spend some time with her, I decided I'd fit up the e34 bowden cable, wire in the plug for the cluster temp and fix up my brake pedal.

    Doing the Bowden was pretty easy, push out the hook and rubber grommet from the pedal, bash the plastic that holds it to the firewall till it snaps and then pull out through the engine bay. Installation was obviously the reverse (other than bashing the clips). One thing I noticed though was there is a foam grommet around the plastic firewall clip on the e34 cable. This prevented it from clicking in properly. I had to remove it to get a solid fit.



    Cluster temp connector was done through cutting pins 1 and 2 from the round, dual temp connector in the e36 harness. Pin 1 should be brown/violet. I pulled this back up through the loom tubing slightly and then back out the tubing. Soldered and heatshrinked this to the single wire temp connector I'd removed from the m40 loom and capped off the wiring from pin 2 cut earlier.



    Last off all, after fitting up the Renault Clio booster, the clevis was about 3mm shorter than the E30. This resulted in the brake pedal no longer returning all the way and causing the lights to come on intermittently. On RHD cars the pedal is connected to the booster via a threaded rod that runs along the firewall. This rod can be twisted to adjust where the pedal sits. Very convenient! Just undid the locking nut (17mm), and twisted the rod until the brake lights turned off and tightened the locking nut.

    This weekend is a long weekend. During my adventures under the dash with the brakes I discovered lots of loose wiring and other things that don't look quite right. If I get motivated I might pull the dash and do a clean up...maybe.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by ba114; 06-11-2016, 04:10 PM.
    RHD OBD2 M50b25 turbo build thread:
    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=384800

    Comment


      #32
      As planned, i spent some time sorting out the wiring inside the car yesterday. It's always bugged me that i could find a selection of different wires and fuse holders under the steering wheel but never knowing what they were for.

      First up, i found the remnants of what used to be a nokia car kit/speaker/control box etc up under the dash. assorted wires were tapped into the brake light switch and i found a cigarette lighter socket wired in above the glovebox that seemed to be providing power to it. Removed all that crap!

      Next up was behind the radio. I'd previously neglected to hookup the illumination wire for my CD43 for when the lights are on, so fixed that up. While i was in there i also discovered the wiring for the aircon aux fan. The PO had tapped into the yellow wire in pin 3 (i think) of the re-circ/aircon switch and run that out through the firewall, and added a new relay and fused battery wire that runs to the aux fan. Not entirely sure why they did this. This pin seemed to always have power while in RUN (not sure about ACC) so presumably it meant the fan was always on? maybe the resistor in the AUX fan is shot. at any rate, i didnt like this wiring so i've removed it and will troubleshoot what is or isn't working when i get things back together.
      Note: I first had issues with none of my fan controls receiving power so i had trouble testing the above. Troubleshooted K7 and K5 relays, fuses etc. To anyone else trying to test mirrors, fan controls etc while doing an engine swap, they will not work until you ground the eyelet connector of the engine harness that goes to the unloader relays. This would normally ground through the starter motor unless the engine is cranking. This is a black wire with a green stripe. Test for continuity from pin 15 of your x20 to confirm the right eyelet connector.

      Also took the time to replace my window switches. The switch for the passenger side didn't have working backlights. upon removal, it was different to every other switch i have in my possession. Still had 5 pins, but were all in a row as opposed to staggered layout. The harness appears to have been hacked on both driver and passenger sides as the wiring was not to female plugs, but rather female spade connectors. Pretty sure i have some spares of these plugs lying around that i salvaged from the scrap car so will fix that up too. For the mean time i replaced both window switches with some from my scraps that were in better condition and can gladly say i now have fully functioning, backlit window switches.

      Finally, i located the black female connector under the steering column with two wires in it. Thick black with red stripe, and black with violet stripe. The Black/Violet wire runs to the aircon switch and fed 12V when the aircon button is depressed. This needs to be wired into the MS41 ecu to enable idle bump when aircon is on.

      Wired up a basic relay that taps this 12v source straight to pin 19 on the MS41 harness, and at the same time, activates a relay to ground pin 16 of the MS41 harness per the attached picture. This then tells the ECU to ground pin 74 to pin 85 of the compressor control relay. As the e30 harness already does this, this shouldn't need to be hooked up.
      Attached Files
      Last edited by ba114; 06-13-2016, 11:17 PM.
      RHD OBD2 M50b25 turbo build thread:
      http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=384800

      Comment


        #33
        So I finished timeserting the block finally. Still need to spend a bit of time on the finish; there's a few highs and lows to take care of but after a couple of mishaps, I'm glad it's all over and done with.

        RHD OBD2 M50b25 turbo build thread:
        http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=384800

        Comment


          #34
          Have been spending some development time on tuning software to get some stuff sorted once its finally time to put the engine in; Specifically, rolling anti-lag.

          Essentially what i need to do, is configure the scenario where the IAT reads approx 4.8v regardless of what the actual temperature. 4.8v relates to -30 degrees Celsius on the sensor scaling. By triggering this event, it will look up against the related tables in the flash, and attempt to target -30degrees timing from 327mg/stk load upwards.

          I have a rudimentary circuit that i'm not happy with so i'm going back to the drawing board to come up with a more refined version.

          In the mean time, if anyone knows whether the DME will throw an error if >5v is fed to IAT sensor that would speed the process up considerably and i could just scale the table to -40c (5v) and be done with it.
          Attached Files
          RHD OBD2 M50b25 turbo build thread:
          http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=384800

          Comment


            #35
            A present finally arrived today from the UK after 2.5 months of sea transport.
            GS6-37DZ - 6 Speed from a 320d







            Attached Files
            RHD OBD2 M50b25 turbo build thread:
            http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=384800

            Comment


              #36
              Finished up surfacing the block and fitted the raceware studs. They sit taller above the deck than the standard bolts if bolted all the way in. Unsure on how deep they're usually inserted though.

              Nowhere in my city seems to stock copper spray so I'm waiting on that to come in the mail before fitting the copper spacer, gasket and cut rings and the head.

              Hopefully the tax return is kind to me this year so I can buy my clutch setup and finally fit this thing. Looking at getting the clutch masters fx250 setup.
              Attached Files
              RHD OBD2 M50b25 turbo build thread:
              http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=384800

              Comment


                #37
                Picked up the head today (finally!) after being gone for 3 months...

                nothing major done, just had it skimmed and had new stem seals fitted. Soon as the copper spray arrives i'll be fitting it up!
                Attached Files
                RHD OBD2 M50b25 turbo build thread:
                http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=384800

                Comment


                  #38
                  Looking good!

                  I'm really interested to see how the antilag turns out. I would've never thought to use the IAT comp tables for that.

                  I think I saw that you swapped to 41.2 with 2.8 maps? Did you end up changing the full flash load limit to 2048kg/hr? I read the basic instructions in that thread, but I don't understand any of what they meant. Going to send you a PM on that...
                  Originally posted by priapism
                  My girl don't know shit, but she bakes a mean cupcake.
                  Originally posted by shameson
                  Usually it's best not to know how much money you have into your e30

                  Comment


                    #39
                    Originally posted by Northern View Post
                    Looking good!

                    I'm really interested to see how the antilag turns out. I would've never thought to use the IAT comp tables for that.

                    I think I saw that you swapped to 41.2 with 2.8 maps? Did you end up changing the full flash load limit to 2048kg/hr? I read the basic instructions in that thread, but I don't understand any of what they meant. Going to send you a PM on that...
                    Yep i posted a MS41.2 rom that i converted with all the MS41.0 defined maps over on the other forum. should be a good starting point but would need some more changes for it to be useful on a euro M52 like disabling misfire detection. This is all defined in the xml i shared with you, hopefully the descriptions make sense.
                    RHD OBD2 M50b25 turbo build thread:
                    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=384800

                    Comment


                      #40
                      Finally! the copper gasket spray arrived in the mail today so will be able to start putting the engine back together tonight hopefully.

                      Living where i live is not conducive to building anything. Basic supplies such as this that you would be able to find in seemingly any other major city (i live in the capital city of Australia however its only 300k people) just aren't available here, increasing both time and cost. /Rant
                      Attached Files
                      RHD OBD2 M50b25 turbo build thread:
                      http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=384800

                      Comment


                        #41
                        Got home after work last night and decided it was time to get cracking on reassembly.
                        started off by spraying a light coating of copper spray on both sides of the spacer and laid it down on the block, followed by the gasket and cutrings.

                        I then removed all studs bar the 2 that go through the dowels so that it would be easier to drop the head down and align it.

                        Got the head down, tied the timing chain out of the way again and started putting the studs back in. The instructions say to wind them in until they bottom out lightly, and not to double nut and try to tighten down, so thats what i did. so far so good. Click here to enlarge

                        I then commenced the torquing sequence, 20ft/lb, then 40ft/lb and then finally 55ft/lb. I left it this way overnight and decided to check back in the morning.





                        Attached Files
                        RHD OBD2 M50b25 turbo build thread:
                        http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=384800

                        Comment


                          #42
                          This morning before work i performed a final check to see whether they'd held torque overnight. The first few were all still to spec, however when i got to about number 7, it had loosened slightly and on attempting to re-torque, the nut made a slipping/cracking feeling before the torque wrench clicked. This didn't sit well with me so i walked around to take a look at the head where this bolt goes through...

                          I think this picture speaks for itself

                          FML. After waiting nearly 3 months to start putting the engine back together, this head now goes in the bin when i get home from work today and i commence searching for either another engine, or a donor car to start all over again. more delays!
                          Attached Files
                          RHD OBD2 M50b25 turbo build thread:
                          http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=384800

                          Comment


                            #43
                            wtf....? I have never seen than happen before

                            Turbo M42 Build Thread :Here
                            Ig:ryno_pzk
                            I like the tuna here.
                            Originally posted by lambo
                            Buttchug. The official poster child of r3v.

                            Comment


                              #44
                              Build is looking nice! Great progress. The only thing I am recommending is that you put RTV sealant on the top of the timing cover. Not a lot so it squeezes out but just a light coating because they are known to leak oil in that spot. I've been there and done that.. so I'm telling you to save you in the future lol. However the picture you just posted of the cylinder head is quite strange...
                              88' E30 325 24v Turbo Coupe
                              91' E30 325i Sedan
                              09' E82 135i Coupe (Sold)
                              01' E46 325ci Coupe (Sold)
                              97' E36 328is Coupe (Sold)
                              91' E30 325i m52 Coupe (Sold)
                              90' E30 325is Coupe (Sold)
                              90' E30 325ic Coupe (Sold)
                              88' E30 325is m20 Turbo Coupe (Sold)
                              88' E30 325 Coupe (Sold)
                              87' E30 325e Coupe (Sold)
                              86' E30 325es Coupe (Sold)

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                                #45
                                wtf dude im sorry that's awful


                                1991 325i
                                flickr
                                @sambhaskins

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