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1989 325ix T-case

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    1989 325ix T-case

    I'm swapping in a new transfer case and front driveline, is there any critical areas/parts I should look at/think critically about replacing while I'm in the area?

    I have the exhaust off from the headers and rear driveline is out.

    I just bought the car this is my first big project, also I know next to nothing about cars.

    Flex discs look good, no cracking.


    Also, it's an auto.


    ALSO, thinking about replacing the headers while I'm in there but I can't seem to find any solid information about whether or not I can even run headers so I'm a little wary about dropping +200 on some shortys only to find I can't get them to sit right. Anyone have any insight?

    #2
    Since this is your first big project and you know next to nothing about cars, take this next advice seriously.

    1. Label everything.
    2. Get a note book and write everything you do down and do it legibly.

    You should be able to fit headers no problem. I'd check the condition of the steering u joint and the steering column flex disc since you have everything underneath it out of the way.
    AWD > RWD

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      #3
      headers will fit but are going to be a waste of time IMO. Better to save that money to convert it to a manual - which will make a HUGE difference, comparatively.
      Build thread

      Bimmerlabs

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        #4
        A manual swap in the ix has to be a 5speed from another ix, correct?

        After getting the rear driveshaft out yesterday a decent portion of the end that goes into the tcase was chipped (decent maybe isn't the right word) I wish I had a picture on me. And this circular metal spring thingy came out of the female end of the drive shaft almost immediately.

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          #5
          Unless it's in very (very) good condition change the tc mounting. Changing that mounting when the tc is in the car is a total pia.

          If you change to a 5 speed you will need a 5 speed tc, the auto unit won't fit.

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            #6
            Forgive me if this sounds very stupid.

            Which part is the tc mounting?

            EDIT:


            I think I know what you're talking about. Based on the picture it looks like it should, just gunked up a bit. But I guess while I got it down may as well.

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              #7
              Agree with nando - pretty much nothing but a turbo is going to make a stock iX Auto faster/quicker. A chip might give you more top end performance.

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                #8
                I'm looking into it. Honestly I'm such a shitty, absentminded driver that I think I would just the car up with a manual.

                Anyway, do you have to drop the engine down to get the t-case off? Trying to avoid doing that if at all possible for several reasons: way out of my scope of knowledge, already fucked up one of my axle boots when I took the support brace off the t-case.

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                  #9
                  on the AT the top two bolts are a huge pain in the ass. I had a bunch of weird assortments of different shape/sized 13mm wrenches and it took me a day to get them off.

                  What I would do is remove the trans mount and lower it all the way down. Then support the subframe with a jack, unbolt it, and lower that about an inch so you can have more room for those bolts. It shouldn't affect anything to lower the subframe a little bit (but support it with jackstands or something, don't get crushed by a 600lb M20).
                  Build thread

                  Bimmerlabs

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                    #10
                    Thanks, won't be able to attack this again until sunday evening or sat morning, but I think I got a better idea of what to do now.

                    I'll let you guys know if the engine crushes me to death.

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                      #11
                      Not sure how you're going to post from the after life.

                      I really didn't mind my automatic IX. It felt slow because of the auto being slow to respond to changes, but in a straight line from a stop it's really not that much slower.

                      It's like the change to megasquirt. The car feels way faster and sportier because the throttle response feels instantaneous compared to the stock AFM throttle response. But it's not really any faster.
                      AWD > RWD

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                        #12
                        Get longer bolts for the front subframe and use them as guide pins when lowering.

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                          #13
                          So I ended up having to do a t-case rebuild, anything I should replace while I have that apart?

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by tcp88 View Post
                            So I ended up having to do a t-case rebuild, anything I should replace while I have that apart?
                            I would replace all the bearings if you can (Money/time). I reused mine and just frankensteined 2 tcases together choosing the bearings/chain that felt the best. Turns out one of the bearings wasn't that great, and my tcase whirs after I put it back together. Nothing has failed yet, but I know I'm gonna have to pull it apart and redo it again eventually.

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by ghatid View Post
                              I would replace all the bearings if you can (Money/time). I reused mine and just frankensteined 2 tcases together choosing the bearings/chain that felt the best. Turns out one of the bearings wasn't that great, and my tcase whirs after I put it back together. Nothing has failed yet, but I know I'm gonna have to pull it apart and redo it again eventually.
                              that sucks. I've done a few rebuilds but never replaced any bearings. never had a problem. i had four or five cases to start with though. i used all the best hard parts i had on hand and ended up with 2 good ones when i was done.
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