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    #46


    Finally got the new fuel lines in. Got a bath in too!!!

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      #47


      And a little engine shot.

      Real hard to start though. Crank for ever.... Feels like it is on 5 cylinders. I think #5 isn't firing, but it's hard to tell with the cast iron manifolds. I have not replaced the spark plug wires yet, so that could be part of the problem.

      A misfire would explain how rich it smells.

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        #48


        No work on the engine today, however I did pull the instrument cluster to check out the SI board batteries.

        One battery showed ~1.5V while the other showed 0V. Hoping that this is the cause of my gauge issues.



        Back side where the connections are soldered looked pretty crappy as well.



        I also checked the odometer gear and discovered that it is stripped. Having not driving the car, I wasn't sure if the odometer worked or not. Based on the overall condition of the car, I was hoping it only had 100k on it.




        More things to fix, but that's OK. All part of the fun [emoji12]

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          #49
          Ran the motor some more today and found a couple issues. First was that I THINK my #3 and #4 injector wires were swapped. They are the only ones not labeled. I kept trying to feel the manifolds for heat, both 3 and 4 were definitely not as hot as the others. After the swap, #3 was hot and spark plug showed ignition. #4 however was still just wet.

          After checking the plug wire to #4, again, the damn connector just pulled out from the wire.

          Luckily I placed an order earlier this morning for a new wire set and distributor cap. Another $200 gone like that :S but hey, at least I'll have some new "performance" wires that are blue 😁.

          I think I've finally hit the $1K mark for what I have invested. Don't tell the wife 😉

          Oh, final thing I found wrong was that elevation/atmospheric pressure sensor thing. I had one on the car and one from the donor. Realized the one on the car (and connected) was missing that little sliding contact finger. I installed the donor one (looks new). Not sure if I can tell a difference. Probably won't until I am running on all 6 cylinders.

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            #50
            Did a smoke test on the vac system. Took a whole blunt, but there appears to be no leaks. Then again, maybe I was blowing in the exhaust pipe??

            Ok, ok, it was a Swisher into the power brake line. No leaks though. Pulled the ICV for cleaning. New spark plug wires And cap will be here tomorrow.

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              #51


              New parts [emoji2]

              Plug wires and cap. Also cleaned out the ICV. Tested the valve with 12V and it is actuating. It was fairly gunked up, but not too bad.

              Looking forward to getting these installed today.

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                #52
                Looking good!
                AWD > RWD

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                  #53


                  Had to throw these on. Looks so sexy now ;) installing new cap and cleaned ICV later.

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                    #54
                    i always love new spark plug wires. Nice job

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                      #55


                      Here is the old cap. Can't believe the thing actually fired up [emoji38] Too late to try and start with the new if ignition components (still mostly straight piped) tonight. Tomorrow will be a good day. It's kinda like Christmas Eve though. I won't be able to sleep!

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                        #56
                        Ugh. Major disappointment. No change after the new cap/wires. Still running rough. Super rich... Crank Position Sensor??

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                          #57
                          Originally posted by BFT_Boyle View Post
                          Ugh. Major disappointment. No change after the new cap/wires. Still running rough. Super rich... Crank Position Sensor??
                          I didn't read all your pages. .but the #1 cause for M20s running rich, is the temp sensor that screws in your thermostat housing.
                          '91 318i (Alpine) - daily
                          '88 325ix (Zinno) - drive here and there!

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                            #58
                            Originally posted by fresh_TD View Post
                            I didn't read all your pages. .but the #1 cause for M20s running rich, is the temp sensor that screws in your thermostat housing.
                            Hmmm. It fails rich then? If I disconnect does it fail lean? Guess I could look up the ohm spec. Checking timing now. I used the reference points in crank and cam gear, but have not checked since I put the pulley on

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                              #59
                              Originally posted by BFT_Boyle View Post
                              Hmmm. It fails rich then? If I disconnect does it fail lean? Guess I could look up the ohm spec. Checking timing now. I used the reference points in crank and cam gear, but have not checked since I put the pulley on
                              Check it according to the values found in the Bentley when hot and cold. Also check the same value at the ECU end of the harness to make sure that there is no break in the harness. This sensor is the main input for thr ECU to determine the correct fuel mixture.

                              Another thing to check is the throttle position switch under the throttle body.
                              '91 318i (Alpine) - daily
                              '88 325ix (Zinno) - drive here and there!

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                                #60
                                Originally posted by fresh_TD View Post
                                Check it according to the values found in the Bentley when hot and cold. Also check the same value at the ECU end of the harness to make sure that there is no break in the harness. This sensor is the main input for thr ECU to determine the correct fuel mixture.

                                Another thing to check is the throttle position switch under the throttle body.
                                K. Will do. Thanks!

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