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Wire joins: solder vs. butt connector

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    #31
    I have basically the same ones, but they are made by Klein. They are the cats ass.
    Your power tool and industrial equipment superstore, carrying top brands including Dewalt, Milwaukee, Greenlee, Ridgid, and many more
    Originally posted by codyep3
    I hope to Christ you have looks going for you, because you sure as fuck don't have any intelligence.
    2001 silver/Blk 325 cabby. SOLD
    1988 Blk/Blk e30 factory wide body kit car SOLD
    1992 DS/BLK 325 m-tech II apperance pack cabby SOLD!
    2002 325xit Sil/blk. SOLD
    2012 328i xdrive touring. Wht/blk. SOLD
    2009 135 cabby. monacoblue/blk leather SOLD
    2007 Z4m coupe. Silver grey/black/ aluminum. 1of50
    2010 F650gs twin
    2016 M235i cabby. Mineral grey/Red leather

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      #32
      Originally posted by george graves View Post
      Fedex overnight:

      How much did you pay? I want to pick up another pair as back-up to keep at home.


      Keep it slideways!!

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        #33
        Free Shipping - CHANNELLOCK Wire Crimping Pliers with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Pliers at Summit Racing.
        Originally posted by Matt-B
        hey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?

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          #34
          This thread is becoming awesome! Love the links.
          sigpic

          1991 318i Sedan Project

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            #35
            Yes, links are very useful - now the question becomes, what are 'heavy truck' places, for those of us who have never driven anything bigger than an F150?

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              #36
              Originally posted by george graves View Post
              And I asked a third engineer that is an actual god damn NASA solder instructor.

              All of them said that it's fine and normal practice to solder wire. The only time there is an issue is then you don't have the wire supported and it does a ton of bending right next to the solder joint. Basically - anything on your e30 will be fine. Any quality solder made for electronics is fine - solder till your heart is content. NASA requires RMA solder, and that's what all the wiring that is soldered on the space shuttle uses.
              I'm calling bullshit on this for one reason.

              I work in the defense industry. We build high power/high voltage switchgear equipment for naval and commercial ships.

              And the Navy and the Army, UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES, allow us to make connections/splices/solder anything. If a wire becomes damaged from mechanical wear, arc, etc, a new wire has to be ran point-to-point, no splices.

              Even if it runs through 9 cabinets, through 15 different looms and is a single 90ft piece of wire, NO SPLICES are EVER allowed.

              I have a hard time believing NASA would allow that on even more sensitive equipment.

              If I'm wrong I'll glady eat a big bowl of "I told you motherfucker" stew, but based on my experience working with the Army/Navy, I have hard time believing that NASA has more lax standards.
              Need parts now? Need them cheap? steve@blunttech.com
              Chief Sales Officer, Midwest Division—Blunt Tech Industries

              www.gutenparts.com
              One stop shopping for NEW, USED and EURO PARTS!

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                #37
                Repair and new wire running are 2 different things. It makes sense that you aren't allowed to splice a cut wire back together, but running a new wire, soldering is fine at the ends.

                This is how I understand the standards the two of you are talking about.
                '89 325i track sloot
                '01 530i daily

                -Enginerd

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                  #38
                  Nope, no soldering on new wires as well.

                  Only crimped connections are used. And this is on $50k relay controllers and shit. No solder anywhere in SUPER expensive equipment.
                  Need parts now? Need them cheap? steve@blunttech.com
                  Chief Sales Officer, Midwest Division—Blunt Tech Industries

                  www.gutenparts.com
                  One stop shopping for NEW, USED and EURO PARTS!

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                    #39
                    George, have those broken in yet? When they are, they will fall open when held by one handle.

                    Anyone who has seen me cut, strip and crimp wires understands how awesome this tool is.

                    Closing SOON!
                    "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

                    Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

                    Thanks for 10 years of fun!

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                      #40
                      Originally posted by george graves View Post


                      those things are complete crap. someone used them all over my m535i and all the wires are breaking in half. i dont thing you can beat solder and heat shrink
                      NEED SOME VINYL STICKERS???

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                        #41
                        Originally posted by BDSax View Post
                        i dont thing you can beat solder and heat shrink
                        I have got to take some damn pictures of nasty ass old solder joints that I see damn near every day...even ones that look like nice work are STILL all corroded an inch up the damn wire.

                        Closing SOON!
                        "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

                        Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

                        Thanks for 10 years of fun!

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                          #42
                          Crimps. Proper crimps. Specifically, the kind that look like B's. With heatshrink over them.

                          Butt connectors are bullshit.
                          cars beep boop

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                            #43
                            For anything uninsulated and not the size of a whale's wanker,



                            Molex 63811-1000

                            I love these. What channellocks will do to insulated crimps, these are meant for precision. I build race harnesses with these mugs. Don't get them confused with the cheap crap at your local store. They make that perfect "B" shape, and are the perfect width for 90% of the crimps you will use on the car. They leave about 1mm of extra metal to flare out to give a proper crimp its "flexibility", and it passes the pull test.



                            These molex crimpers are bomb-ass. It makes crimps like factory. For about $50, I've used these to build harnesses on house water filtration machines, and of course, race cars.

                            For insulated connectors, the best is the Channellocks. The normal insulated connectors are hard to crimp correctly without breaking the insulation, and when you do crimp them correctly, the insulator falls off.

                            Of course we can get into die type mechanical/machine crimpers which are the real shit, but thats for another day.

                            fyi crimping article: Crimping 101

                            and for solder...leave that on circuit boards and stuff.

                            Derek
                            DedericMS

                            All-Red/MHW style Professional Tinted Tail lights
                            PnP EMS, fuel injectors, wideband o2 systems

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                              #44
                              B crimps are great - those crimpers unfortunately, like all tools like that, flex a lot more than they should. There used to be a reference on here to a decent tool for that purpose...

                              Comment


                                #45
                                i HAVE USED THAT EXACT SAME SET OF CRIMPERS AND UNLIKE MOST, FLEX VERY LITTLE

                                goddamn it, I hate that capslock button

                                Closing SOON!
                                "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

                                Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

                                Thanks for 10 years of fun!

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