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Ticking and other problems after valve adjustment

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    #1

    Ticking and other problems after valve adjustment

    So I decided to do a little bit of a tune up on my car, New spark plugs air filter etc. I also did a valve adjustment. After I did the valve adjustment the engine just started ticking even louder than before. Thus, I did it again being super careful this time. This is when the engine developed the slightest bit of a knock and the ticking still remained. Feeling defeated I decided to step back and attempt next week.
    Here comes next week and I try to start up the car again but it didn't start. I turned the key and the starter made no noise but I heard a bang, as if one of the cylinders fired, then no sound again. Right after I heard the bang I turned off the car. The next time I tried to turn on the car, it started but I noticed a steady stream of white smoke coming out of where the headers meet the exhaust. I turned off the car to go to the bathroom and when I got back I started the car again and this time there was no smoke but it was still ticking.

    Any help as to what the hell is going on with my car would be much appreciated, I can post a video of the ticking as well if you guys need it.
    Tags: None
    #2
    Eeek. Did you leave a wrench in there or something? Only way to see what's going on is to pull the valve cover again.
    Originally posted by Matt-B
    hey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?

    Comment

      #3
      Originally posted by george graves View Post
      Eeek. Did you leave a wrench in there or something? Only way to see what's going on is to pull the valve cover again.
      haha, already did that, nothing looked out of the ordinary

      Comment

        #4
        How are you doing your valve adjustment? Both cam lobes should be pointing down before you make a change. It's easiest to do it in the engine's natural firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4. Minimal engine rotating. Number 1 is closest to the front of the car.

        Did you double check the clearance after you fully tightened the eccentric? It's very easy to do this job improperly.
        1989 325i Lachssilber Sedan
        5-Speed Swapped
        M30B35 Swapped
        MegaSquirt MS3X

        1987 325i Lachssilber Sedan
        260k OEM Automatic Daily Baby

        Comment

          #5
          Originally posted by EatsHondas View Post
          How are you doing your valve adjustment? Both cam lobes should be pointing down before you make a change. It's easiest to do it in the engine's natural firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4. Minimal engine rotating. Number 1 is closest to the front of the car.

          Did you double check the clearance after you fully tightened the eccentric? It's very easy to do this job improperly.
          What exactly do you mean by both cam lobes pointing down? What I did was move the crank until each lobe was at TDC (pointing down) and then adjusted. I did this for each individual cam in the firing order that you specified above. I did check each valve after I adjusted it, probably too much, I went back and re-did most of them a couple times because I wasn't satisfied. And, I went through that whole process twice because I wasn't satisfied the first time.

          Comment

            #6
            Do you use the spring loaded tool?
            89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

            new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

            Comment

              #7
              Originally posted by Dzdimi14 View Post
              What exactly do you mean by both cam lobes pointing down? What I did was move the crank until each lobe was at TDC (pointing down) and then adjusted. I did this for each individual cam in the firing order that you specified above. I did check each valve after I adjusted it, probably too much, I went back and re-did most of them a couple times because I wasn't satisfied. And, I went through that whole process twice because I wasn't satisfied the first time.
              On each cylinder, you have an exhaust lobe and an intake lobe on the cam. When both of the lobes are pointing straight down, away from the valve cover, the piston is close enough to TDC that there is no rocker arm pressure on the valve. This allows you to set the clearance between the valve stem and the eccentric lobe on the rocker arm. I think we're talking about the same idea.

              When you're done adjusting, you want to be able to slide your feeler gauge through the gap with slight drag. If you can wiggle the rocker with the feeler gauge taking up the space, it's too loose. If the feeler gauge is stuck or doesn't fit, you're too tight.
              1989 325i Lachssilber Sedan
              5-Speed Swapped
              M30B35 Swapped
              MegaSquirt MS3X

              1987 325i Lachssilber Sedan
              260k OEM Automatic Daily Baby

              Comment

                #8
                Originally posted by EatsHondas View Post
                On each cylinder, you have an exhaust lobe and an intake lobe on the cam. When both of the lobes are pointing straight down, away from the valve cover, the piston is close enough to TDC that there is no rocker arm pressure on the valve. This allows you to set the clearance between the valve stem and the eccentric lobe on the rocker arm. I think we're talking about the same idea.

                When you're done adjusting, you want to be able to slide your feeler gauge through the gap with slight drag. If you can wiggle the rocker with the feeler gauge taking up the space, it's too loose. If the feeler gauge is stuck or doesn't fit, you're too tight.
                Yea that's what I did, I got the lobe for the intake valve at tdc then adjusted it, then moved the crank until the exhaust lobe was at tdc and adjusted the exhaust valve. I did that for each cylinder in the firing order. I tried my best to get the slight drag concept down. I heard someone say that it is like when you drag your fingernail on a piece of paper so I based it off of that.

                Comment

                  #9
                  Originally posted by digger View Post
                  Do you use the spring loaded tool?
                  No, I just used a feeler guage, What does the spring loaded tool do?

                  Comment

                    #10
                    The purpose of the spring tool is to make the adjustments easier by removing any subjective feel for how much drag is on the feeler or whether it is too loose. The task can certainly be done without the tool.
                    The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                    Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

                    Comment

                      #11
                      its more of a pita without the tool, i always get more consistent result now i use it and it is much faster.
                      89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

                      new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

                      Comment

                        #12
                        You did measure the gap at the tip of the valve, right, not at the cam?

                        Saw that done once... confused everyone at first.

                        The other thing might be really worn eccentrics- if they don't get adjusted for 100k,
                        they get a big flat on them, and then when you do, there's just a sharp edge against
                        the valve stem, and it tends to be louder...

                        Had that happen a few times. New eccentrics helped a lot.

                        t
                        now, sometimes I just mess with people. It's more entertaining that way. george graves

                        Comment

                          #13
                          Did you adjust it when it was hot or cold?

                          Comment

                            #14
                            Originally posted by FunkySwerve View Post
                            Did you adjust it when it was hot or cold?
                            cold

                            Comment

                              #15
                              Originally posted by TobyB View Post
                              You did measure the gap at the tip of the valve, right, not at the cam?

                              Saw that done once... confused everyone at first.

                              The other thing might be really worn eccentrics- if they don't get adjusted for 100k,
                              they get a big flat on them, and then when you do, there's just a sharp edge against
                              the valve stem, and it tends to be louder...

                              Had that happen a few times. New eccentrics helped a lot.

                              t
                              yup, Ill look into the eccentrics to see if they are the problem. The camshaft itself looked pretty good though.
                              Last edited by Dzdimi14; 09-20-2015, 02:25 PM. Reason: Misspelled a word

                              Comment

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