Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Replacing the E30 Heater Core and Valve

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    I used some silicone lubricant on them
    Youtube channel is up!-->According2Valentine

    Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.
    If lucky, the E36 will die peacefully, in its natural habitat, and be given the prestigious honor of donating its parts to an E30
    Originally posted by J3M93
    This guy delivers, you are a boss

    Comment


      Which is a more difficult job? Heater core replacement or evaporator? Has anyone done both?

      Comment


        both about the same...one requires removal of the leg panel and one requires dropping the glove box. it's tight being under the dash to remove the heater tap pipes. but it is doable.
        sigpic

        Comment


          I've done the heater core a thought it was not too bad. Have to do the evaporator so wanted to see what I was getting into. Thanks!

          Comment


            Originally posted by Junker02 View Post
            I've done the heater core a thought it was not too bad. Have to do the evaporator so wanted to see what I was getting into. Thanks!
            make sure you evacuate the system before attempting..believe me you don't want that in your face.
            sigpic

            Comment


              After flushing the coolant from this winter's storage, no heat through the vents. I didn't drive around but was revving the engine to 3k a fair bit to warm the engine and when the water temp gauge got to 3/4 so I shut it off. With water that hot, the tstat must have been open but perhaps air was trapped in the heater core. I repeated twice trying to confirm no air in the system. After an hour of the bleeding game, I noticed a slow coolant leak dripping off of the transmission crossmember. I dried up the coolant, opened the coolant cap and quit for the day to allow for bleeding over night without a pressurized system.

              Next day, the same puddle has appeared under the transmission, probably a couple fluid ounces. There shouldn't have been any pressure forcing it to leak with the cap off. No damp carpet and I couldn't trace the leak to the engine so assumed it to come from the heater core figuring the coolant was dripping from the core into the heater box and then into the tranny tunnel, onto the transmissions, then crossmember.

              I drained the coolant, pulled the heater core and there was a little coolant in the heater box. I also confirmed the heater valve and tstat to be working properly.

              This seems like a straight forward bad heater core issue but two things bother me.

              1. I can't get the core to leak by just filling with water and letting it sit. I realize that a hairline crack may only leak under extreme pressure which I can't recreate at a kitchen sink but it leaked over night, without any pressure in the system.

              2. Can water really get from the heater box through the transmission tunnel? I couldn't pull the heater box to see if there is drain hole but if there isn't my problem can't be the heater core.

              3. With as slow of a leak that developed, the heater still should have blown warmer than ice cold, unless air was trapped somewhere not allowing proper bleeding.

              Any ideas one why I can't get the core to leak? Is there a hole in the heater box and the trans tunnel to even allow my theory? Where else could a leak be from off the trans crossmember if not the heater core?

              My system is the late model one with metal pipes.

              Comment


                Any one have thoughts on what else could cause a coolant drip from the transmission besides heater core? I have a new one on order along with water pump just for piece of mind. Any coolant seals or gaskets on the cylinder head that could be replaced?

                Comment


                  if there was coolant in the heater box id imagine your heater core is toast. you could try blowing into one of the pipes and blocking the other one, while spraying down the heater core with some dishwashing soap mixed with water in a spray bottle, and youll likely see the bubbles if there is a pinhole somewhere. the leak below the trans could be from the two bolt little coolant outlet pipe that bolts to the back of the head. when you tried to bleed it did you feel both heater hoses? if one was hot and one was cold either there was a blockage in the heater core, the heater control valve wasnt opening, or there is a coolant circulation problem

                  Comment


                    Originally posted by atldohc View Post
                    if there was coolant in the heater box id imagine your heater core is toast. you could try blowing into one of the pipes and blocking the other one, while spraying down the heater core with some dishwashing soap mixed with water in a spray bottle, and youll likely see the bubbles if there is a pinhole somewhere. the leak below the trans could be from the two bolt little coolant outlet pipe that bolts to the back of the head. when you tried to bleed it did you feel both heater hoses? if one was hot and one was cold either there was a blockage in the heater core, the heater control valve wasnt opening, or there is a coolant circulation problem
                    Thanks, I tried testing the core with soapy water and blowing into one end with the other blocked but still no detectable leak. I wasn't able to feel the firewall inlet and outlet hoses because the plenum is in the way. I didn't see a leak from that back coolant outlet pipe on the head but its pretty much against the firewall so hard to see much back there.

                    UPDATE It was indeed a bad heater core. I replaced it with a new OEM core and there is no more leak and coolant temp holds at the half mark at idle. For those who are still running the original core, replace it before it dies, they are only $150 and can save you from a really inconvenient situation. Not only that but you'll be surprised at how much crap is gunked up in it.
                    Last edited by fronton; 04-11-2014, 08:01 AM.

                    Comment


                      i have a heater core available if anyone needs

                      Comment


                        I picked up a 35$ heater core off eBay, not behr obviously but fit fine and heat is good. Old behr had crack in plastic on passenger side. Got o rings and coolant from pelican.

                        Comment


                          I had no idea this was that easy. Here I am driving around with no heat because I didn't want to pull my dash off.

                          Comment


                            anyone find that the water valve was leaking on theirs? Thats another pricey part I just found out.
                            Renting my rear wheel bearing tool kit. SIR
                            http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c5...ps6debf0b0.jpg

                            Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

                            Comment


                              how much is that water valve?

                              Comment


                                Originally posted by iPee View Post
                                how much is that water valve?
                                I think the valve for the aluminum inlets (part number 64111386707) is discontinued. Looks like I might have to find a used one.

                                If you have the plastic inlets the part number is 64111386706, costs $216 on Pelican Parts.
                                fried chicken

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X