Trying to find a good spot to hook up the preluber to my freshly rebult M20. Anyone knows if the oil cooler routed before the filter or after?
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
prelubing rebuilt M20
Collapse
X
-
or maybe someone has another idea how to prelude it?
Should I run it through the filter or just hook up directly? should I just to go with 10-15psi of fresh break in oil into the pressure switch ...... rotate a crank a few times and call it good?
I haven't pressed the needle bearing into the pump drive hole yet. Anyone has any diy gizmo ideas to grab the oil pump shaft and spin it with the drill?
I don't know if anyone makes a drill adapter like in this video.
-
An easy way is to remove the cover where a distributor would mount on the forward left side of the engine. Then pull the oil pump drive gear and use a driver and an electric drill (clockwise) to pre-lube the engine. You will now when the oil system is full and oil has reached all bearings by hearing the drill load up.The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL
Comment
-
Originally posted by jlevie View PostAn easy way is to remove the cover where a distributor would mount on the forward left side of the engine. Then pull the oil pump drive gear and use a driver and an electric drill (clockwise) to pre-lube the engine. You will now when the oil system is full and oil has reached all bearings by hearing the drill load up.
Comment
-
6mm hex, might need an extension though89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...
new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505
Comment
-
A die grinder at 15,000 rpm will simulate actual driving conditions.
Not really. Just use low to moderate speed until you notice the change Jim mentioned. It shouldn't take too long ...as in less than a minute.
Not an M20, but when I first started my rebuilt m30 I just used the starter to crank the engine. I put some oil in the combustion chambers first to make sure the rings had extra lunrication and also had to use some heavy weight oil in the oil filter cannister to help prime the pump. That car took a while to build pressure but the addition of some thicker oil finally made it work. I had removed the spark plugs while doing this so it would crank easier.Never argue with stupid people, they will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience. -Mark Twain
Comment
-
at 1000 rpm crankshaft speed the pump gets driven at 24/32*12/18*1000 = 500rpm, so no need to spin the tits off of it you'll get a feel for itLast edited by digger; 07-24-2017, 10:46 PM.89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...
new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505
Comment
-
Originally posted by jlevie View PostAn easy way is to remove the cover where a distributor would mount on the forward left side of the engine. Then pull the oil pump drive gear and use a driver and an electric drill (clockwise) to pre-lube the engine. You will now when the oil system is full and oil has reached all bearings by hearing the drill load up.
Comment
-
Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View PostJust keep in mind, the head will not get oil until the engine is in rotation - the oil will stop at #1 & #7 cam journals - so have a friend turn the engine slowly while priming to get the whole engine.The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL
Comment
-
Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View PostI have always used this method with no issues. Just keep in mind, the head will not get oil until the engine is in rotation - the oil will stop at #1 & #7 cam journals - so have a friend turn the engine slowly while priming to get the whole engine. Cordless drill on regular speed is plenty.
I always thought that the head gets oil from the block (gallery between cal 3 and 4) and then oil travels inside rocker shafts to oil cam bearings. I did plan to rotate the engine to let the oil travel through the crank and trough #1 and #7 cam journal groves for the spray bar.
How does oil actually travel in the head?
Comment
-
my understanding is as follows
1) oil up the block around the headbolt into the head
2) there is an offset hole in the head that oil goes upwards
3) offset hole feeds oil into exhaust side rocker shaft through big hole in journal number (between 3 and 4 cyl)
4) exh rocker shaft feeds exhaust side rockers
5) same offset hole from (2) feeds cam journal (4) through an angle drilled hole
6) cam journal feeds intake rocker shaft through groove in camshaft
7) intake rocker shaft feeds other intake rockers and other 6 cam journals
8) cam journal 1 and 7 goes to sprayer via only a partial groove in camshaft. (this is why needs to rotate)89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...
new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505
Comment
-
Originally posted by digger View Post8) cam journal 1 and 7 goes to sprayer via only a partial groove in camshaft. (this is why needs to rotate)
Comment
-
It's only a part circumferential groove so at some rotational positions the hole to sprayer is basically blocked89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...
new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505
Comment
Comment