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Is $1900 to do the rear SubFrame bushings a ridiculous amount?

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    Is $1900 to do the rear SubFrame bushings a ridiculous amount?

    I've been tracking down a clunk noise coming from the back of my '90 auto IX. Had thought originally it might be the driveshaft running into the TC. Good news is it wasn't, the TC and VC are all in good working order. Bad news is that it looks like it's the 2 rear subframe bushings.

    Shop locally here in Denver is quoting me about $1900 to fix it all, telling me that it's a huge job, about 10+ hours in labor because they have to take the entire rear axle out to get to it.

    I'm at a crossroads here. My IX is in great condition besides this, only has 156,000 miles on it, no rust, straight body. Any thoughts on if spending this $1900 is worth that or if I can find someone to do it a lot cheaper than that? Any work arounds for subframe bushings? Would you guys just sell this and be done with it? I just literally don't have the time or knowledge to tackle this myself. Thanks for your help!

    #2
    Well, I'd start off by calling a few other shops and comparing prices.
    Current Collection: 1990 325is // 1987 325i Vert // 2003 525i 5spd // 1985 380SL // 1992 Ranger 5spd // 2005 Avalanche // 2024 Honda Grom SP

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      #3
      Holy bejeezus wow.

      I have no idea since I did this myself, but it can't cost that much, can it?

      If you're interested in learning at all since you own one, maybe look around for a fellow ix owner, possible since you're in the mecca of 325ixs, who will help you with the job for the company + a case of beers.

      I dunno, just an idea. It might be worth getting more mechanically inclined since you own a 27 year old car:).

      In terms of difficulty, I wouldn't say there's anything really hard, depending on how much rust your car has. I would say getting the axles out was the hardest part for me. I took out the subframe + trailing arms out with a harbor freight jack + 2 skateboards.

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        #4
        No id say thats reasonable. Figure 100-120 an hour in labor and then parts. Dropping a rear subframe thats been up there for 25+ years is no easy task. It will fight them every step of the way.


        1989 325is l 1984 euro 320i l 1970 2002 Racecar
        1991 318i 4dr slick top


        Euro spec 320i/Alpina B6 3.5 project(the never ending saga)
        Vintage race car revival (2002 content)
        Mtech 2 turbo restoration
        Brilliantrot slick top "build"

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          #5
          Is the IX any different in the rear from a coupe?

          Does it have to come down?

          If it's no different than a regular e30 in the rear, then that is a brutal price in my opinion!

          I had mine done at a dealership for under $200. I supplied the bushings.
          Originally posted by codyep3
          I hope to Christ you have looks going for you, because you sure as fuck don't have any intelligence.
          2001 silver/Blk 325 cabby. SOLD
          1988 Blk/Blk e30 factory wide body kit car SOLD
          1992 DS/BLK 325 m-tech II apperance pack cabby SOLD!
          2002 325xit Sil/blk. SOLD
          2012 328i xdrive touring. Wht/blk. SOLD
          2009 135 cabby. monacoblue/blk leather SOLD
          2007 Z4m coupe. Silver grey/black/ aluminum. 1of50
          2010 F650gs twin
          2016 M235i cabby. Mineral grey/Red leather

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            #6
            It's not a fun job to drop the subframe and a lot of things are attached to it or in the way of it coming off the car. I'm not too surprised they quoted you that much however I would think a shop with air tools, a press and a lift should be able to do it in less than 10 hours.

            The Build:
            http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=191125

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              #7
              The BMW dealership I took it to did it on the car. Seriously, I was in and out in under 2 hours.
              Originally posted by codyep3
              I hope to Christ you have looks going for you, because you sure as fuck don't have any intelligence.
              2001 silver/Blk 325 cabby. SOLD
              1988 Blk/Blk e30 factory wide body kit car SOLD
              1992 DS/BLK 325 m-tech II apperance pack cabby SOLD!
              2002 325xit Sil/blk. SOLD
              2012 328i xdrive touring. Wht/blk. SOLD
              2009 135 cabby. monacoblue/blk leather SOLD
              2007 Z4m coupe. Silver grey/black/ aluminum. 1of50
              2010 F650gs twin
              2016 M235i cabby. Mineral grey/Red leather

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Todd Black 88 View Post
                The BMW dealership I took it to did it on the car. Seriously, I was in and out in under 2 hours.
                Not every subframe bushing comes out that easily ;)

                Often times I have to break out the air chisel to literally break the aluminum insert so that the part stuck in the chassis can be retrieved after the subframe is fully dropped. My labor STARTS at $1k for an E30 simply because its a huge pain in the ass. The last e30 subframe job I did was around $1800 with parts and labor... but I had to replace every single brake line back there because of the rust.

                Every car is different... some fight some don't. All depends on the life its lead up until your ownership.
                IG: deniso_nsi Leave me feedback here

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                  #9
                  With the right tools it can be done with the subframe still in the car, at least if using stock rubber bushings.
                  E30 325ix M50 turbo 7 spd DCT 4wd 840awhp @ 31 psi.
                  E30 M50 6 spd 764whp @ 24psi.
                  E30 M20 6 spd 675whp.

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                    #10
                    sometimes I quote a little high on jobs I have no interest in doing, especially when I am busy and dont need the work. Supply and demand. Maybe thats the case? Shop around a little bit.

                    Rear subframe bushings can be simple or a mess. I switched subframes when I was parting out my car and the aluminum part of the bushing broke off in the car and the ebrake cables were rusted in. Biggest PITA. They may have quoted you expecting the worst, so that if the worst happens, their flat rate tech doesnt loose a week of work on a 10hr job.
                    www.cp-e.com

                    1989 Zinno 325i m52 turbo coupe
                    2015 Ford Fiesta ST, Daily Driver.

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                      #11
                      Here was my experience with my local shop who knows E30's extremely well 2 years ago:

                      Subframe bushings (AKG)
                      Trailing arm bushings (AKG)
                      Diff bushing (AKG)
                      Rear toe-kit, welded in (AKG)
                      Rear camber-kit, welded in (AKG)
                      Rear axle replacement (Oriely; lifetime warranty, 400wtq, what's there to lose? lol)
                      x2 Subframe located SS brake lines (I.E.) (They generously did this for me w/o me asking)
                      Custom alignment of all 4's.


                      Parts and labor: $1,188 tax included.

                      1991 325iS turbo

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                        #12
                        At ten hours of book time, $1900 is $190/hour. That rate is way high, even for northern VA.
                        The bushings themselves are... $30 each?

                        They'll try to sell you everything under the sun, which you may or may not need.

                        I think they gave you the "Make a PITA job worth my while" price. Go somewhere else or do it yourself.

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                          #13
                          I agree ^. Do it yourself. For the longest time I avoided doing the rear subframe bushings on my cars until I just decided to go for it. I found it wasn't really bad at all if you drop the entire rear as a unit, then the rest is easily accessible. None of my hardware was rusted so everything simply unbolted. I did it all in my driveway over the weekend because I had to take it to someone to get the tabs welded but if it weren't for that I could have easily had it done the same day.
                          "I'd probably take the E30 M3 in this case just because I love that little car, and how tanky that inline 6 is." - thecj

                          85 323i M TECH 1 S52 - ALPINEWEISS/SCHWARZE
                          88 M3 - LACHSSILBER/SCHWARZE
                          89 M3 - ALPINEWEISS II/M TECH CLOTH-ALCANTARA
                          91 M TECHNIC CABRIO TURBO - MACAOBLAU/M TECH CLOTH-LEATHER

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by dude8383 View Post
                            Not every subframe bushing comes out that easily ;)

                            Often times I have to break out the air chisel to literally break the aluminum insert so that the part stuck in the chassis can be retrieved after the subframe is fully dropped. My labor STARTS at $1k for an E30 simply because its a huge pain in the ass. The last e30 subframe job I did was around $1800 with parts and labor... but I had to replace every single brake line back there because of the rust.

                            Every car is different... some fight some don't. All depends on the life its lead up until your ownership.
                            Thank goodness for a dry California car then!
                            Originally posted by codyep3
                            I hope to Christ you have looks going for you, because you sure as fuck don't have any intelligence.
                            2001 silver/Blk 325 cabby. SOLD
                            1988 Blk/Blk e30 factory wide body kit car SOLD
                            1992 DS/BLK 325 m-tech II apperance pack cabby SOLD!
                            2002 325xit Sil/blk. SOLD
                            2012 328i xdrive touring. Wht/blk. SOLD
                            2009 135 cabby. monacoblue/blk leather SOLD
                            2007 Z4m coupe. Silver grey/black/ aluminum. 1of50
                            2010 F650gs twin
                            2016 M235i cabby. Mineral grey/Red leather

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Sorry you're not closer. I'd give you a hand. If you are considering doing it yourself just follow the steps in my signature and feel free to ask any questions.

                              And what Nisse said is correct. It can be done with the subframe still in the car with the right tools. This is why BMW can do it much quicker. I'm not sure of the details...
                              Last edited by EyExR; 07-25-2017, 01:24 PM.
                              My 325iX DIY Threads:

                              Front Wheel Bearing Replacement

                              325iX Rear Subframe Bushings and MUCH more w/pics!

                              325iX Steering Rack Replacement, Suspension, & Oil Pan job w/pics!


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