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    #16
    Penrite HPR10 - full synthetic 10W50.

    Cheap down here as it's Australian oil - good product.
    My e30: OEM+ with M30B35

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      #17
      I will tell you one thing though. If that LiquiMoly goes on sale again a BA I may buy a couple gallons of it. I have heard a lot of good things about it.
      sigpic87 325E The Honey Badger

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        #18
        Originally posted by Bullhead View Post
        I will tell you one thing though. If that LiquiMoly goes on sale again a BA I may buy a couple gallons of it. I have heard a lot of good things about it.
        LiquiMoly is some good stuff, look for their mos2 anti friction blends. Probably the only oil I would run if I had a built m20.

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          #19
          i ran 15-50 mobil1 from wally world and beat the living piss out of my car for a summer with no issues. probably going to do the same again this coming year.

          1989 Coupe build thread: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=312012
          IG: @mitchlikesbikes

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            #20
            20w50

            BUT!!

            recently I discovered that is way to thick for cold starts
            so probably a 5w40 is more acceptable.
            Just have to get an oil pressure gauge and test it out.

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              #21
              despite what the 25yr old manual says i would never use 20W-xx ever on an engine that sees lots of cold starts, the oil pressure when cold would be through the roof which typically means you are getting less flow on a cold engine. and you know what they say about when most wear happens.....in any case any differences between oils will take a loooong long time to show up so using an oil for a few years without issues means basically nothing, except perhaps pertaining to cam lobe wear but that's not a viscosity thing.

              an oil temp and pressure gauge will go along way to tell you what is good for your application

              i also am a fan of penrite
              89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

              new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

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                #22
                ^so what are you using?

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                  #23
                  Autodata specifies semi synthetic 10W-40 for all m20s. Of course this is bare minimum. Full synthetic is always better than semi or mineral. For people bitching about it being an old engine I have 1 thing to say - m20b20 from 1977 and m54b30 from 2006 run exactly the same main bearings and conrod bearings with exactly the same tolerances, go figure.
                  My transaction feedback on r3vlimited :):Clickety click

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                    #24
                    With that Castrol Edge 5w50, I've had no cold start issues. It's 5w for the cold starts, but still a 50wt oil. I run it all year. last year, we had an extremely cold winter here in Ontario, and I had no problems. I stick to the following for my start up routine: Start, let car idle up to 2 minutes, depending on ambient temperature. I start off slowly, keeping revs below 2000. Once in 5th gear, I keep the car around 1500-1700 RPM. Now I'm a bit more anal here. I wait until the temp gauge gets to the first thin white tick before driving normally. I know that the "normal" temp range is anywhere beyond the blue, but like I said, I'm anal about it, especially in cold temps.
                    Estoguy
                    1986 BMW 325, Alpenweiss ~ "Elsa"

                    Need a photographer, come visit my site: http://estoguy.wix.com/unique-perspectives

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                      #25
                      300k+ mile m20b25:

                      20w50 castrol dino when it's warm/hot outside
                      10w40 when it starts to dip below 40 degrees F or so--really helps out with cold starts.
                      Frequent oil changes

                      I'll be switching to synthetic after a rebuild! (Amsoil if I can get my hands on it)

                      I wait until the car is well out of the blue on the temp gauge to go over 1/4 throttle.

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by lukeADE335i View Post
                        Penrite HPR10 - full synthetic 10W50.

                        Cheap down here as it's Australian oil - good product.
                        Freshly rebuilt engine. Running Redline 5W-40. Seems to do the job. Don't have much to compare it to.

                        Thinking I'll switch to Penrite 10W-50 at the next change.

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                          #27
                          Delvac 15w40
                          1989 BMW 325is Lachsilber metallic 5 speed
                          2007 BMW 335i KARMESINROT 6 Speed manual
                          2011 BMW X5 35I

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                            #28
                            After reading some of the informative responses... going with 10W40 Mobile/Royal Purple
                            Last edited by indecline; 12-26-2014, 05:06 PM.
                            1989 325I(M20B25US)|KAMotors CAI|Bilstein Sports|H&R Sports|ST Sways|SSSquid Tune|Red46 Sump Armor|

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                              #29
                              Originally posted by indecline View Post
                              After reading some of the informative responses... going with 10W40 Mobile/Royal Purple
                              After reading most of the uninformed responses, I'll stick w/M1 0W-40.

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                                #30
                                Farm and Fleet 15W40 diesel oil works fine for me...$8 per gal.

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