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Turbo time for my S50 on a "budget"

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    Turbo time for my S50 on a "budget"




    So after over 7 years of having my well taken care of and modded E30 swapped to a S50 it is time to start the F.I. process. I have had the turbo manifold and the intercooler for more years than I want to admit and it appears that the time has come. The last Saturday at a local cars and coffee event I had a great time looking at all the boosted cars and swapping info with some very nice people, I left in good spirits and began my cruise home. Halfway home smoke started pouring out of the glovebox and I pulled over only to discover a wire had melted and severed in the harness from being overloaded. It turns out that my Oxy sensor had come into contact with my headers and arced out causing the feed line to the power circuit int he Oxo Setup to short and cook the wire from the relay to the connection at the DME.

    So now on to my build.

    My Current setup was assembled 7 years ago and includes

    Fully Rebuilt S50 bottom end with new rod and main bearings, crankshaft spun, balanced and polished. Pistons checked and inspected rods weighted and matched.

    The head was built from scratch due to the fact that my original head was cracked in 4 places. I used factory valves improved valve springs improved keepers, factory S50 camshafts and then I let my machine shop go to crazy town with the porting. Pardon the dirt this was after pulling it apart in haste.






    Now that you have the history on the engine here goes the build part. I will do my best to update this as I build it out.

    Plan includes Cut-ring head gasket and spacer and ARP Studs
    Precision 6266 Ballbearing Turbo
    RK Tuning for the Turbo
    CX racing Intercooler (at least to start)
    Custom 3 inch exhaust with Catalytic Converter
    Stronger Clutch (not sure which one yet would love to get some suggestions
    Precision Waste gate
    TIAL BOV
    Walbro 255 fuel pump

    Got Started Right after the Cars and Coffee Event.

    Pulled the intake and started relabeling the wiring harness as it came apart. original labels from 7 years ago were still on the harness but a bit hard to read.

    I had to mock up the Intercooler to keep myself motivated.



    I really could use some recommendations on the clutch for my Getrag 260 E36 M3 LTW Flywheel. Also still picking gauges so recommendations on how to monitor everything would be great. If you see an inferior part I am planning to install please let me know.
    Last edited by BMW_TUNER; 02-25-2016, 01:08 PM.
    1989 332IS -S-Fiddy Four-Some weight removed.
    5 lug E36 M3 Brakes Coilovers and LTW's and No ABS.

    #2
    If you already have some sort of E36 single mass flywheel, I'd give the Sachs "792" PP a try, plus a sprung disc of your choice. It's the next step up from their "HD" series.

    It doesn't say it holds as much as the 765 that fits the M30 flywheel, but if this E36 version is anything like it, it should hold a lot of power.
    Originally posted by priapism
    My girl don't know shit, but she bakes a mean cupcake.
    Originally posted by shameson
    Usually it's best not to know how much money you have into your e30

    Comment


      #3
      You will love it!

      If on the budged get the eBay fx clutch and PP stg3, flywheel of your choice but do run a oem TOB. I been running the F1 stg4 for 2+ years with no issues. F1=fx. What's your power goal?
      sigpic
      HyperWerkz

      89 mtech2, s50, AR Kit, borgwarner s362, e-85, 15psi... 592whp
      " enjoy the show "

      Comment


        #4
        :rippedoff:
        Originally posted by hyperE30 View Post
        You will love it!

        If on the budged get the eBay fx clutch and PP stg3, flywheel of your choice but do run a oem TOB. I been running the F1 stg4 for 2+ years with no issues. F1=fx. What's your power goal?
        I currently have a findanza ltw flywheel so I am contacted grip force and they will sell me a stage 3 pressure plate, disc and throw out for $315. Power goal on the daily side is 400. I would like to use an ebc and have multiple boost levels on que including maybe a meth setting for bad behavior.
        1989 332IS -S-Fiddy Four-Some weight removed.
        5 lug E36 M3 Brakes Coilovers and LTW's and No ABS.

        Comment


          #5
          My flywheel is S50 13lb I beleive
          1989 332IS -S-Fiddy Four-Some weight removed.
          5 lug E36 M3 Brakes Coilovers and LTW's and No ABS.

          Comment


            #6
            Got a little closer t pulling the engine. Harness is off to the side tilt puller is installed. Nose is off the car. Power steering is drained and I also removed the one PITA bolt against the firewall on the starter.





            These parts have been waiting for a bit.


            Also might have a good reason to figure out fitment on these. The E36 M3 LTW rotors and M3 Calipers have done will with 2600# and S50 power but the Turbo may make these necessary.
            1989 332IS -S-Fiddy Four-Some weight removed.
            5 lug E36 M3 Brakes Coilovers and LTW's and No ABS.

            Comment


              #7
              Pulled the engine today everything looks pretty good. I need more clutch for 255's for sure and the guibo is not happy. Otherwise everything else looks good.
              1989 332IS -S-Fiddy Four-Some weight removed.
              5 lug E36 M3 Brakes Coilovers and LTW's and No ABS.

              Comment


                #8

                Can still see the cross hatch from my last hone.
                1989 332IS -S-Fiddy Four-Some weight removed.
                5 lug E36 M3 Brakes Coilovers and LTW's and No ABS.

                Comment


                  #9
                  I had a stage 3 F1 lightweight flywheel and clutch on my supercharged s50 running about 400 wheel if you wanna look in to that, held up nicely.
                  But now that I'm going turbo I'm going with the light weight flywheel of death and UUC kevlar clutch set up. But thats not budget.. lol

                  Interested to see more!
                  - S50 Swapped E30 1/1 Mineral White -
                  @vaughnbannister on IG

                  Comment


                    #10
                    So I began the process of stone grinding the block today. It appears that the area between my cylinders is down from the deck height about .003 inch. I am wondering if I should just continue on honing until i reach a uniform height or if i should bite the bullet and pull the entire engine apart and send it to the machine shop.
                    1989 332IS -S-Fiddy Four-Some weight removed.
                    5 lug E36 M3 Brakes Coilovers and LTW's and No ABS.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      id say better safe then sorry... you don't want to have to do everything twice.
                      - S50 Swapped E30 1/1 Mineral White -
                      @vaughnbannister on IG

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by iiTzvaughn View Post
                        id say better safe then sorry... you don't want to have to do everything twice.
                        True but with such a small low spot I am not sure. It would probably only take a few more passes with the stone to get the surface flat. Not to mention the cost of the rod bolts and the crank bolts and all the bearings.
                        1989 332IS -S-Fiddy Four-Some weight removed.
                        5 lug E36 M3 Brakes Coilovers and LTW's and No ABS.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by iiTzvaughn View Post
                          id say better safe then sorry... you don't want to have to do everything twice.
                          I am bitting the bullet and pulling the whole motor apart you are right a couple hundred dollars worth of machine work is worth it to not have to pull the engine.
                          1989 332IS -S-Fiddy Four-Some weight removed.
                          5 lug E36 M3 Brakes Coilovers and LTW's and No ABS.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by BMW_TUNER View Post
                            I am bitting the bullet and pulling the whole motor apart you are right a couple hundred dollars worth of machine work is worth it to not have to pull the engine.

                            Awesome! Well I mean not for your wallet lol. I think you're going to happy to not have that sinking feeling in the back of your mind about the "what ifs"


                            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                            - S50 Swapped E30 1/1 Mineral White -
                            @vaughnbannister on IG

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by iiTzvaughn View Post
                              Awesome! Well I mean not for your wallet lol. I think you're going to happy to not have that sinking feeling in the back of your mind about the "what ifs"


                              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                              You are probably right. I can just see the slippery slope when I take it to the shop. I.E. "well the bores could use some work so you should just get oversize and go custom pistons....... and since you are doing pistons you should just do rods"...and down the rabbit whole I go. :devil:
                              1989 332IS -S-Fiddy Four-Some weight removed.
                              5 lug E36 M3 Brakes Coilovers and LTW's and No ABS.

                              Comment

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