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I had to make every brake line for the vehicle by my self, I figured there would be a few leaks
Did you mirror the stock system? I used the existing lines that go to from the engine bay to the rear but fabbed new lines going from master to rear line and master to two new in bay lines.
Did you mirror the stock system? I used the existing lines that go to from the engine bay to the rear but fabbed new lines going from master to rear line and master to two new in bay lines.
No I made everything from scratch, I have a pedal now firm and does not sink, hopefully fixing the minor leaks at the prop valve and near the rear beam
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M30 is God's motor.....but Jesus drives an M60'd car -slammin.e28
I redid every brake and fuel hard line on my LS swap as well. Between the manual brake conversion and the 30yr old lines I figured all new stainless is the way to go. If you flare em right and use the proper fittings you shouldn't have any issues.
I did new lines going from the three masters into the engine bay. I also did new lines going to each front wheel as I removed ABS. I ended up bending the lines and then taking them to a hydraulic shop who did the flares for me. It all worked well when I had everything in place and took my time with it.
I'm in the same boat doing brakes with Wilwood masters and proportioning valve on e36 m3 brakes. Any tips? I heard not to use teflon on the fittings, I'm doing double flares wherever necessary.
I'm in the same boat doing brakes with Wilwood masters and proportioning valve on e36 m3 brakes. Any tips? I heard not to use teflon on the fittings, I'm doing double flares wherever necessary.
Bubble flares, rather than double flares, are the BMW style before you get too far.
I did not put sealant on my fittings at the master cylinders and obviously no sealant on the brake lines themselves. I've been using a prototype of the pedal box that garagistic now uses for over 4 years now, no leaks. Never had it back apart. Just my experience.
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