****1986 325e****
so this all started about 3 weeks ago, i was headed home from work, car was running fine just chugging along, i was making my way from one freeway to another on a long sweeping on ramp and all of the sudden the car started to sputter out, when applying the throttle the car would hardly accelerate, and it sounded like it was running on two cylinders.
i got the car towed home and i couldn't hear my fuel pumps coming on (eta dual pump set up). i was planning on replacing them soon as i knew they were slowly dying anyhow. so i replaced the dual pump set up with one Walbro GSS342 in tank pump, and deleted the in line high pressure pump.
tried to crank the car with no luck, fuel pump is coming on just fine, even while cranking, and we pulled one plug and grounded it to the chassis and its sparking.
a friend of mine who works for a local bimmer shop came over with a multi meter to help me assess the issue. we started at the fuel relay and main relay, i replaced the fuel relay just before he came over. one of those (i can't remember if it was fuel or main relay) on connector 30 (ground connection) showed no continuity. i ran through most of the main harness loom cleaning up grounding points and connections (mostly near the passenger side of the firewall)
we checked the injector harness, ohms read as they should.
checked the coil ohms read as they should.
checked the fuse able link, continuity from one side to the other side is fine.
i checked most of the harness from the ecu through and across the firewall, under the intake manifold, connecting to the two crank reference sensors that read off the flywheel (replaced 6 months ago), and over to the relays. the front CPS hasn't been replaced but it looks just fine, and I've read its only for diagnostic use.
the harness appears to be completely intact, same as it ever was from an outside view now i haven't cut anything open however.
we swapped out the ECU (green label 027) with a known good ECU from a running car, nothing changed.
only thing left i could think of checking is compression really (rebuilt engine with 30k on it runs like a top normally!), maybe the the cap/rotor (replaced 6 months ago)
i'm getting plenty of fuel to the rail (fills half a 12oz water bottle within cranks of the engine) although i haven't checked for the injectors "ticking" with the flat head trick. and i figured i would have ruled out spark by grounding out the plug outside of the engine and having spark.
the car will just crank and crank and crank (at a normal speed) but nothing is firing. we tried using some brake cleaner sprayed into the throttle body but still no fire.
i need help! this is my daily driver any and all suggestions/comments/troubleshooting is more than welcomed.
<3 Pantless.
so this all started about 3 weeks ago, i was headed home from work, car was running fine just chugging along, i was making my way from one freeway to another on a long sweeping on ramp and all of the sudden the car started to sputter out, when applying the throttle the car would hardly accelerate, and it sounded like it was running on two cylinders.
i got the car towed home and i couldn't hear my fuel pumps coming on (eta dual pump set up). i was planning on replacing them soon as i knew they were slowly dying anyhow. so i replaced the dual pump set up with one Walbro GSS342 in tank pump, and deleted the in line high pressure pump.
tried to crank the car with no luck, fuel pump is coming on just fine, even while cranking, and we pulled one plug and grounded it to the chassis and its sparking.
a friend of mine who works for a local bimmer shop came over with a multi meter to help me assess the issue. we started at the fuel relay and main relay, i replaced the fuel relay just before he came over. one of those (i can't remember if it was fuel or main relay) on connector 30 (ground connection) showed no continuity. i ran through most of the main harness loom cleaning up grounding points and connections (mostly near the passenger side of the firewall)
we checked the injector harness, ohms read as they should.
checked the coil ohms read as they should.
checked the fuse able link, continuity from one side to the other side is fine.
i checked most of the harness from the ecu through and across the firewall, under the intake manifold, connecting to the two crank reference sensors that read off the flywheel (replaced 6 months ago), and over to the relays. the front CPS hasn't been replaced but it looks just fine, and I've read its only for diagnostic use.
the harness appears to be completely intact, same as it ever was from an outside view now i haven't cut anything open however.
we swapped out the ECU (green label 027) with a known good ECU from a running car, nothing changed.
only thing left i could think of checking is compression really (rebuilt engine with 30k on it runs like a top normally!), maybe the the cap/rotor (replaced 6 months ago)
i'm getting plenty of fuel to the rail (fills half a 12oz water bottle within cranks of the engine) although i haven't checked for the injectors "ticking" with the flat head trick. and i figured i would have ruled out spark by grounding out the plug outside of the engine and having spark.
the car will just crank and crank and crank (at a normal speed) but nothing is firing. we tried using some brake cleaner sprayed into the throttle body but still no fire.
i need help! this is my daily driver any and all suggestions/comments/troubleshooting is more than welcomed.
<3 Pantless.
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