Ok, first post here and I hope somebody can help. This is a long read but I felt I needed to be detailed.
I recently acquired a 91 325i that was pretty mint.
The PO had a stereo intalled in '05-
OEM premiun tape head unit--> speaker level to line level converter in the trunk(factory amp bypassed) --->Kicker KX700.5 5ch amp---> factory speaker wires to some MB quart comps in front/coax in rear and a sub. The install shop did a great job. I have no complaints there, it all worked perfectly. They did run new wires from the MB x-overs to the factory tweeter wires at the kicks and spliced in there (not sure if this will relate to the current issue)
Fast forward.
3 days ago I purchased and installed (following the sticky on amp bypass to get dash color codes) a new Pioneer DEH-80PRS. This is when it all went downhill. FWIW the head is being run in 3way active mode. No rear speakers, just comps up front sub in the back.
I ran the RCA's (3 pr) down the drivers side. I used all the correct wiring in the dash for 12v constant/switched/ground/illumination as per the sticky.
The problems are-
1. With the key in the on or acc position I get a pop through the speakers when pressing the brake pedal, hazards, blinker, basically when any light switch is used. Including the interior map lights.
2. With the engine running I get the above pop as well as a low level (volume wise) buzz. It is not alternator whine, I had that too but isolated the rca cables and got rid of it. (previously were ran down pass side, Big no no.)
These issues are independent of source or volume.
I have been pulling my hair out trying to figure this out.
So far I have-
1. Tried grounding the head unit to several different chassis points.
2. Tried grounding the head unit to the amp/batt/both.
3. Tried Grounding the rca's.
4. Disconnected the power antenna and its grounds.
5. Connected 12v constant and switched together
6. Connected head unit directly to battery
7. Grounded head unit to power antenna
I have not tried but will try-
1. Connect iPod directly to amp.
2. Connect speaker to head unit to bypass amp
3. Remove amp from seatback sheetmetal. ( I DID check for continuity with a multimeter between the amps chassis and ground and it was isolated. I do not believe that the amps chassis is grounded to the car in any way)
I have done many car audio installs over the years and have never had this kind of strange trouble, which is why I am posting here.
ANY help is certainly appreciated at this point.
Thanks,
Justin
I recently acquired a 91 325i that was pretty mint.
The PO had a stereo intalled in '05-
OEM premiun tape head unit--> speaker level to line level converter in the trunk(factory amp bypassed) --->Kicker KX700.5 5ch amp---> factory speaker wires to some MB quart comps in front/coax in rear and a sub. The install shop did a great job. I have no complaints there, it all worked perfectly. They did run new wires from the MB x-overs to the factory tweeter wires at the kicks and spliced in there (not sure if this will relate to the current issue)
Fast forward.
3 days ago I purchased and installed (following the sticky on amp bypass to get dash color codes) a new Pioneer DEH-80PRS. This is when it all went downhill. FWIW the head is being run in 3way active mode. No rear speakers, just comps up front sub in the back.
I ran the RCA's (3 pr) down the drivers side. I used all the correct wiring in the dash for 12v constant/switched/ground/illumination as per the sticky.
The problems are-
1. With the key in the on or acc position I get a pop through the speakers when pressing the brake pedal, hazards, blinker, basically when any light switch is used. Including the interior map lights.
2. With the engine running I get the above pop as well as a low level (volume wise) buzz. It is not alternator whine, I had that too but isolated the rca cables and got rid of it. (previously were ran down pass side, Big no no.)
These issues are independent of source or volume.
I have been pulling my hair out trying to figure this out.
So far I have-
1. Tried grounding the head unit to several different chassis points.
2. Tried grounding the head unit to the amp/batt/both.
3. Tried Grounding the rca's.
4. Disconnected the power antenna and its grounds.
5. Connected 12v constant and switched together
6. Connected head unit directly to battery
7. Grounded head unit to power antenna
I have not tried but will try-
1. Connect iPod directly to amp.
2. Connect speaker to head unit to bypass amp
3. Remove amp from seatback sheetmetal. ( I DID check for continuity with a multimeter between the amps chassis and ground and it was isolated. I do not believe that the amps chassis is grounded to the car in any way)
I have done many car audio installs over the years and have never had this kind of strange trouble, which is why I am posting here.
ANY help is certainly appreciated at this point.
Thanks,
Justin
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