prelubing rebuilt M20

[zaq123]

Trying to find a good spot to hook up the preluber to my freshly rebult M20. Anyone knows if the oil cooler routed before the filter or after?

[zaq123]

or maybe someone has another idea how to prelude it?
Should I run it through the filter or just hook up directly? should I just to go with 10-15psi of fresh break in oil into the pressure switch ...... rotate a crank a few times and call it good?
I haven't pressed the needle bearing into the pump drive hole yet. Anyone has any diy gizmo ideas to grab the oil pump shaft and spin it with the drill?
I don't know if anyone makes a drill adapter like in this video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tOYLlr8uQ8k

[jlevie]

An easy way is to remove the cover where a distributor would mount on the forward left side of the engine. Then pull the oil pump drive gear and use a driver and an electric drill (clockwise) to pre-lube the engine. You will now when the oil system is full and oil has reached all bearings by hearing the drill load up.

[zaq123]

An easy way is to remove the cover where a distributor would mount on the forward left side of the engine. Then pull the oil pump drive gear and use a driver and an electric drill (clockwise) to pre-lube the engine. You will now when the oil system is full and oil has reached all bearings by hearing the drill load up.

do you know if there is a driver that's available to fit the oil pump? Or do you guys make your own?

[digger]

6mm hex, might need an extension though

[zaq123]

6mm hex, might need an extension though

what rpm should I do it with? 2500 or so?

[Bearmw]

A die grinder at 15,000 rpm will simulate actual driving conditions.

Not really. Just use low to moderate speed until you notice the change Jim mentioned. It shouldn't take too long ...as in less than a minute.

Not an M20, but when I first started my rebuilt m30 I just used the starter to crank the engine. I put some oil in the combustion chambers first to make sure the rings had extra lunrication and also had to use some heavy weight oil in the oil filter cannister to help prime the pump. That car took a while to build pressure but the addition of some thicker oil finally made it work. I had removed the spark plugs while doing this so it would crank easier.

[digger]

at 1000 rpm crankshaft speed the pump gets driven at 24/32*12/18*1000 = 500rpm, so no need to spin the tits off of it you'll get a feel for it

[ForcedFirebird]

An easy way is to remove the cover where a distributor would mount on the forward left side of the engine. Then pull the oil pump drive gear and use a driver and an electric drill (clockwise) to pre-lube the engine. You will now when the oil system is full and oil has reached all bearings by hearing the drill load up.

I have always used this method with no issues. Just keep in mind, the head will not get oil until the engine is in rotation - the oil will stop at #1 & #7 cam journals - so have a friend turn the engine slowly while priming to get the whole engine. Cordless drill on regular speed is plenty.

[jlevie]

Just keep in mind, the head will not get oil until the engine is in rotation - the oil will stop at #1 & #7 cam journals - so have a friend turn the engine slowly while priming to get the whole engine.

Interesting.. That was something I did not know.

[zaq123]

I have always used this method with no issues. Just keep in mind, the head will not get oil until the engine is in rotation - the oil will stop at #1 & #7 cam journals - so have a friend turn the engine slowly while priming to get the whole engine. Cordless drill on regular speed is plenty.

Didn't know that too.
I always thought that the head gets oil from the block (gallery between cal 3 and 4) and then oil travels inside rocker shafts to oil cam bearings. I did plan to rotate the engine to let the oil travel through the crank and trough #1 and #7 cam journal groves for the spray bar.

How does oil actually travel in the head?

[digger]

my understanding is as follows

1) oil up the block around the headbolt into the head
2) there is an offset hole in the head that oil goes upwards
3) offset hole feeds oil into exhaust side rocker shaft through big hole in journal number (between 3 and 4 cyl)
4) exh rocker shaft feeds exhaust side rockers
5) same offset hole from (2) feeds cam journal (4) through an angle drilled hole
6) cam journal feeds intake rocker shaft through groove in camshaft
7) intake rocker shaft feeds other intake rockers and other 6 cam journals
8) cam journal 1 and 7 goes to sprayer via only a partial groove in camshaft. (this is why needs to rotate)

[ForcedFirebird]

8) cam journal 1 and 7 goes to sprayer via only a partial groove in camshaft. (this is why needs to rotate)

I guess it really doesn't need to be turned then, specially if you pour oil on the cam before closing the cover. Just the first time I used a drill on an m20, I could hear the oil back up there and slowly bubbling out like vapor lock. Turned the engine and spatter released out the spray bar.

[digger]

It's only a part circumferential groove so at some rotational positions the hole to sprayer is basically blocked

[zaq123]

revisiting this thread as I'm getting closer...here are my choices for break in oil. All have the same zddp, Driven Joe Gibbs BR oils

Which one? 15w50,10w40,5w30,5w20

thinking 5w30 or 10w40 (at the most) to get it flowing better