Yet another M30 E30 amongst your ranks. WHATS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A PORCUPINE AND

[StereoInstaller1]

On your non functioning IP, check fuse 21.

Do not use your eyeballs as a diagnostic tool, use a test light.

Electrical manuals here: www.wedophones.com >MANUALS>AUTOMOTIVE>BMW and I wish you much luck in understanding them...I have them down, but took quite a while!

Luke

[Adiabatic]

AWESOME information SI, I appreciate that site! I'm generally okay at reading wiring diagrams, but I can't find crap for them for these specific cars.

Now, to get out of work on time so I can snap some photos. HAH.

[Adiabatic]

Pics!









Obligatory dirty garage shot, with bonus "project":




And now, the engine:




This guy apparently decided that these next few hoses needed to go unplugged, and I show you them in their original state:




These first two, as I understand by one of RealOEM's diagrams, go to a large cylindrical doodad that I can only guess is a charcoal canister for evap.

This seems to be right:




But of course after that cylindrical guy it vents.

Thoughts? Helpful suggestions? Clues to the mess that is the vacuum system? Gimme some feedback guys!

[BDK]

just from your engine pics,
there is some parts from the B34 and B35 on the top end alone,
that intake is from either very early B34 or something else..I dunno...
the hose coming out of the middle of the intake is throwing me off in addition to no 3.2/3.5 or 3.5...
Hopefully the PO didn't just take a B35 head and throw it on a B34 bottom end,
that would suck, dropping your compression very low...Good for Turbo, Not good for NA,
The stock HP/TQ for B34 (U.S.) is 184hp/214/tq, the stock numbers for a stock B35 are 208/225....
But the B35 seem to pull alot harder and is more fluid, the later 1.3 Motoronics helped alot
M30 motors don't come on until 3750 rpms, so you need to adjust your drving style to allow for that and learn to keep your revs up, a Mark D chip will help, but first you got to get it running...
Good luck, takes ballz to take over someone elses project...
once you get all the parts figured out, it won't take long....well, too long anyway...
Good Luck
super rich means that it is prolly running open loop so try to find the O2 sensor and get that all going...

[chadthestampede]

Looks like it should be fun, any updates?

Also, pedobearod8?

[Adiabatic]

Sorry for the lack of updates yall, I've been in the process of moving and havent had a computer up and running for a while.

I plugged up all the vacuum lines I could find, and... Still running like shit. Then I unplugged the FPR and whaddya know, ran a lot better. Which meant she was getting a lot of unmetered air still. I plugged a new vacuum line into where the FPR connects on the bottom of the intake manifold and then noticed that the old hose was still plugged in down there. Looks like the PO also forgot to plug up 2 of the 3 bungs on the bottom of the manifold. I plugged them and the car now runs ABSOLUTELY PERFECT. Well aside from another air bubble in the coolant with the heater core still bypassed and no thermostat. If I dont have to fuck around with another cooling system again it'll be a wonderful thing.

just from your engine pics,
there is some parts from the B34 and B35 on the top end alone,
that intake is from either very early B34 or something else..I dunno...
the hose coming out of the middle of the intake is throwing me off in addition to no 3.2/3.5 or 3.5...
Hopefully the PO didn't just take a B35 head and throw it on a B34 bottom end,
that would suck, dropping your compression very low...Good for Turbo, Not good for NA,
The stock HP/TQ for B34 (U.S.) is 184hp/214/tq, the stock numbers for a stock B35 are 208/225....
But the B35 seem to pull alot harder and is more fluid, the later 1.3 Motoronics helped alot
M30 motors don't come on until 3750 rpms, so you need to adjust your drving style to allow for that and learn to keep your revs up, a Mark D chip will help, but first you got to get it running...
Good luck, takes ballz to take over someone elses project...
once you get all the parts figured out, it won't take long....well, too long anyway...
Good Luck
super rich means that it is prolly running open loop so try to find the O2 sensor and get that all going...

I may very well have such a setup. I know compression numbers mean shit but I was getting about 150-155 on all cylinders, which means either pretty low compression or incredibly tame cam lobes. How would I know for sure?

If worse comes to worst I'll just turbo it. Hell, I have enough vacuum bungs to meter 2 turbos right now.

Also, no problems with rev control. My power in the little red honda doesn't come on until 6000. :P I'll look into said chip as well, but I'm seriously considering tuning it myself with an EPROM burner. I've always been interested in doing something like that.


Next line of business: Figuring out what the hell wiring harness I have so I can sort out the fuckup that is the tach and speedo. I'm pulling 7.75V at the connection to the speedo gear in the diff currently, though I can't really backprobe the speedo effectively without getting run over. I'll snap some photos of various wires if someone lets me know where harnesses are different.

Also, pedobearod8?

Huh?

[chadthestampede]

Huh?

I honestly don't remember what I was referring to. Sorry.

[RickSloan]

its the image shack user name...

[Jean]

Just looked through the pics, looks like a rats nest there! Deff. you got some early m30 stuff in the mix of things.

[Mastrcruse]

This guy apparently decided that these next few hoses needed to go unplugged, and I show you them in their original state:

http://img9.imageshack.us/i/img2160h.jpg/

http://img30.imageshack.us/i/img2163p.jpg/

These first two, as I understand by one of RealOEM's diagrams, go to a large cylindrical doodad that I can only guess is a charcoal canister for evap.

I left those off because I was told that they didn't have to go to anything (the evap. wasn't important). Everything else seems to be stuff I was charged for getting done but seems like he forgot to do. I told him to button everything up and getting it working properly. He did say that he never wanted to see the car again unless I put the original motor back in. That right there though isn't shit compared to the condition I recieved it in but I wasn't trying to be sneaky so sorry about the problems. For $1200 you could just part it out I guess. It still boggles my mind that he only torqued them down to 45 ft. lbs or put the thermo in backwards. He has done all my e30's and have never ever had a problem.

It's a B34. The head is (I was told) a b34 head. I purchased it from Mossman on this forum about 2-3 years ago.

And I did forget to tighten down the nut for the steering wheel..I thought of that when you left. The correct spacers are in there (there should be 2). They were used to convert from an airbag car to a non-airbag wheel. Never tightened it down because of testing different clusters.

[Mastrcruse]

And this guy wasn't even on the diagram:

http://img132.imageshack.us/i/img2164dcf.jpg/

The larger hose it connects to is the PCV connection between the inlet and the valve cover. The RealOEM diagram for the PCV had the connection, but no sign of this little guy connected to it.

If it's what I think it is. It goes underneath the manifold and connects to a nipple on the bottom of the intake manifold. There should be 3. Could have been just knocked off when he installed the motor.

Geez..I also told the mechanic that he needed to fill the open nipples on the bottom of the intake mani.

[Adiabatic]

It's all good man, all in all I love the car and it's a complete joy to work on. I'm just astonished at how much your guy doesnt understand this stuff. It's remarkably easy compared to L-Jetronic and even a lot of other EFI stuff. There doesnt seem to be any permanent damage so I won't be parting it out at all, and I still don't regret the purchase in the least :) Hows Texas?

I'm pretty sure the pedobear thing is from my buddy, I didn't even know you had to have an account at imageshack...

EDIT: Next order of business, hopefully to be fixed this weekend, is the gearshift. If you'll all turn your attention to

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AJ93&mospid=47318&btnr=25_0026&hg=25&fg=05

looks like part #4 is cracked and letting part #1 slip out, causing extreme driver annoyance. It also looks like part #1 is a little too short anyways, so I may have to weld a little extension to it. Assuming, hoping, and praying the latter is not needed, I'll be participating in a rally put on by one of Kettering University's fraternities on Friday, July 31st. Pictures will most definitely be in order.

[Adiabatic]

Wow, so updates!

I decided to take the car for a nice little 70 mile road rally a couple months ago, and at just over the halfway mark we were in first by 7 minutes! (I'll let you know how I knew that in a bit) The car does remarkably well drifting around corners on the dirt. Or at least it did for a while.

My co-driver spitting out directions with gusto, we barreled around corner after corner, and soon enough started feeling a slight pulsation. Around an 80 degree sharp-ish right, we slid the back end around going something like 60 mph (just a guess, speedo still doesnt work :P ) and suddenly the car drops and I hear a horrible thudding noise.

I said to myself: "Well, it's a rally! That's not going to stop me!" Unfortunately it did just that, as when I hit the accelerator out of the turn, we went nowhere. We coasted up a hill, shedding speed like mad as I kept trying for the accelerator. We eventually stopped, got out, and after seven minutes of fiddling around the second-place car (a 2009 Cobalt SS) flew by. We looked around, couldn't find anything wrong with the drivetrain, and it took us until about half the cars had flown past us to figure out the driver's rear wheel was currently sitting on the rotor.

That's right... the FREAKING LUG STUDS SHEARED OFF. Apparently BMW's aren't supposed to drift or something.

Anyways, we get it towed, turns out even an oxy-acetylene won't get the parts of lug stud out of the hub, and thus I go in search of a full trailing arm. Firestone wants 450 bucks for one, eBay wants 250, and some glorious man on this here site wanted all of 25 bucks for his old one. DEAL. So, as of last night, the BMW I have affectionately named Oliver is back on the road again.

It's without a speedo, tach, or heat (right when I fix the heater core, the blower stops working, argh) but damnit it's on four wheels again :D

[Jean]

Crazy!!! Run the two wires and fix the speedo and tach man :)

[Adiabatic]

The two wires? I was still under the impression that I hadn't figured out the problem yet :P What two wires are you talking about? Also, it looks like once I get the speedo and tach fixed, I need to worry about the short to the instrument cluster thats taking out the fuel and temp gauges as well.

Also, another amusing anecdote of the rally: The Cobalt SS went on to win it, but not before he blew a tire 5 miles from the finish, at 130mph on the highway. He drove it to victory, scraping rim and all.