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My new m62! bringing this thread back from the grave

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    #31
    And, to reinforce again, the sensor needs to be in the right spot if you're using the BMW ECU. From looking at pictures, it appears to be right where the timing mark is on the M62 timing cover. Probably not a coincidence..

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      #32
      Originally posted by Denny View Post
      I disagree again! No way the properly installed CPS will not read TDC correctly. The crank pulley ONLY installs in the correct position and will only FIRE when TDC is found. The timing is electronically added or substracted from the DME depending on conditions of other sensors..(knock sensors..IAT.CTL...etc..) ...in my case with Megasquirt I will have full control over it.
      If you weld it on in the wrong location, it's not properly installed...

      Also, for people not using MS or aftermarket management, adjusting the reference angle is much more difficult (like buying a W.A.R. Chip...)

      Echoing what JGood said, the location needs to be precise.

      Originally posted by smalcol View Post
      There is a timing mark on the M62 timing cover and marks on the pulley. Not sure on the M60 pulley, it would surprise me if there aren't any marks. Online pictures seem to show a couple holes in the M60 pulley, those are probably the timing marks.It's a pain to see with everything in the way, but it's there, I used it to time my engine with a light.
      Cool... Thanks! I didn't know they had actual timing marks. Most manufacturers saved costs by eliminating the external timing checks when they switched to fully electronic ignition.

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        #33
        The 1997 block(B44 non vanos) has the timing mark in the front case but the CPS sensor is in the case of the tranny (you can see it in this pic) it uses the Flywheel same (60-2) wheel type but longer teeth since wheel(flywheel) is a lot bigger and the CPS sensor is at the bottom left(pasenger) of the case. So i understand the logic of what your saying I just read the opposite maybe I'm missing something here.. but anyways I'm going to count on your experience (Jgood..and others) then rely on the internet in general. So Im going to position right in the timing mark.. making sure its nice and square.
        Denny
        ___________
        1990 BMW red 325IC M30B35 all stock Girlfriends ride
        1991 BMW black 318IC (M62b44 Megasquirt 2 ver 3.57)

        Blogs:
        http://bmw325e30.blogspot.com/ (restoration)
        http://bmw325e30turbo.blogspot.com (Twincharge M20)
        http://bmw325e30m62b44.blogspot.ca/

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          #34
          :d
          Last edited by MonkeyMadness; 01-16-2015, 07:06 PM.
          https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar...re-irs.356333/

          This Forum is built on love, and powered by Sexual Tension!

          When I die, I want to go peacefully like my Grandfather did, in his sleep -- not screaming, like the passengers in his car.

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            #35
            Originally posted by Denny View Post
            The 1997 block(B44 non vanos) has the timing mark in the front case but the CPS sensor is in the case of the tranny (you can see it in this pic) it uses the Flywheel same (60-2) wheel type but longer teeth since wheel(flywheel) is a lot bigger and the CPS sensor is at the bottom left(pasenger) of the case. So i understand the logic of what your saying I just read the opposite maybe I'm missing something here.. but anyways I'm going to count on your experience (Jgood..and others) then rely on the internet in general. So Im going to position right in the timing mark.. making sure its nice and square.
            I'm not sure I'm following you. If you're using the 6 speed transmission you already have the mount for the sensor right there? You can't place it incorrectly. I used the original sensor and location on my M62 6 speed swap, works great.

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              #36
              Thanks for all of the info guys i appreciate it.

              I figured if the sensor location, gap and angle where so precise and touchy then i would have read about more peoples swaps not starting or misfiring seems like everyone gets it first try so it shoulnt be to hard.
              M30 is God's motor.....but Jesus drives an M60'd car -slammin.e28

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                #37
                Originally posted by smalcol View Post
                I'm not sure I'm following you. If you're using the 6 speed transmission you already have the mount for the sensor right there? You can't place it incorrectly. I used the original sensor and location on my M62 6 speed swap, works great.
                He wants to use the 5 speed which does not have the sensor boss, but found a photo of the 6 speed to use in discussing the sensor boss.

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                  #38
                  Originally posted by dougie30 View Post
                  Thanks for all of the info guys i appreciate it.

                  I figured if the sensor location, gap and angle where so precise and touchy then i would have read about more peoples swaps not starting or misfiring seems like everyone gets it first try so it shoulnt be to hard.
                  How many people have welded on the crank sensor mount? I was only aware of a couple...

                  Keep in mind, for use with a megasquirt or standalone ECU, the sensor really can go anywhere. The location is only ticklish when using a stock DME.

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                    #39
                    Originally posted by The Dark Side of Will View Post
                    How many people have welded on the crank sensor mount? I was only aware of a couple...

                    Keep in mind, for use with a megasquirt or standalone ECU, the sensor really can go anywhere. The location is only ticklish when using a stock DME.
                    this is true, gotcha
                    M30 is God's motor.....but Jesus drives an M60'd car -slammin.e28

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                      #40
                      Alright so its been a while sence iv updated this thread, some minor progress i have made.

                      I decided it would be smart to replace the chain guides while the engine is on the stand.

                      The hardest part so far was removing the notorious "jesus bolt", tried heat, impact gun, pb blast a 1/2 breaker bar.
                      Thankfully a guy i work with had a 3/4 breaker bar about 5' long and a giant pry bar, wedged it between two fly wheel bolts and came out like nothing.







                      also, arent the oil pump gear bolts notorious for coming lose? mine seems to be tight.
                      M30 is God's motor.....but Jesus drives an M60'd car -slammin.e28

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                        #41
                        got some minimal updates! i foung a 95 740 at a local pic and pull and got my self a toothed crank pulley, maf, new dipstick and tube (mine was damaged).

                        now i need a lower oil pan, obd1 wiring harness and 404 dme! if anyone has a known working ones pm me!
                        M30 is God's motor.....but Jesus drives an M60'd car -slammin.e28

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                          #42
                          also as i posted in another thread, the plastic vacuum plate on the back of the intake manifold is missing from my engine when i bought it, so i pulled one off af the m60 at the yard and it dosnt seem to fit? did they change from m60-62? also what does that plate even do? could i block it off?
                          M30 is God's motor.....but Jesus drives an M60'd car -slammin.e28

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                            #43
                            This is a fantastic thread! I certainly hope there will be more updates and discussion, I've learned so much great stuff here. :)

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                              #44
                              I don't run a back plate on my manifold. I let the crank case breath to open air.
                              I have a smooth plate.
                              The crank trigger is needed in the exact location as the timing mark. Due to the timing gap @ 180* mark. if you locate the crank trigger at any other spot you will confuse the ecu. even if your running MS is also reads the timing gap and the cam trigger reads the cam position "in that timing gap." so the location of both (crank and cam trigger) are very important.

                              I learned early in life the hard way never take advice from some one who hasn't done it, if that advice cost you money, a girl, or your Life....

                              just sayin...
                              https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar...re-irs.356333/

                              This Forum is built on love, and powered by Sexual Tension!

                              When I die, I want to go peacefully like my Grandfather did, in his sleep -- not screaming, like the passengers in his car.

                              Comment


                                #45
                                Progress is slow right now, im doing the chains and guides because i have heard to many horror stories about the m62 guides falling apart.

                                @monkeymadness i plan on tapping holes for a m20 crank sensor bracket and shaving it down a bit so i can put it where i want and not have to worry about welding the aluminium. someone on here has done it thats where i got the idea.

                                So now i need to order the chains gaskets and guides, and the tools to set the engine at tdc. Its going to take a while but i juat got a new job so hopefully the 💵💵 will speed things up a bit
                                M30 is God's motor.....but Jesus drives an M60'd car -slammin.e28

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