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No Start Dilemma - Input requested

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    No Start Dilemma - Input requested

    I recently purchased an E30 from the PNW and drove it across the country with no issues whatsoever.

    I dropped it off to have the windows tinted including the front windshield in a clear so I can protect the interior.

    When picking up the car it would not start, it cranked over just fine, but nothing would happen.

    I knew I dropped it there low on fuel so I went to the gas station and grabbed a gallon of gas and put it in the car.

    I was able to get it started and was only able to drive it about 1 mi before it completely shut off and I had to push it to the side and get AAA to take it to my house.

    I had thought it might have been the fuel filter getting clogged since I let it run low on fuel, so I replaced that today and got it to start for a few seconds and then it died again.

    Checked the plugs and they looked fouled and possibly fuel soaked, so I went and purchased some new ones from the local parts store. the wires are kind of loose on the plugs so I ordered all new stuff tonight.

    I did get it to fire for another 10-15 seconds before it shut off.

    I do not have any check engine lights, or codes.

    I will add that when I did put the key to the on position under the hood it sounded like a bunch of clicking was happening (maybe like a relay rapidly switching) I placed an order for the white control relay in case that is the issue.

    Before I drove the car across the country I had the timing belt, water pump, all hoses and belts replaced. as well as the CPS and the cap and rotor done. And a valve adjustment.

    Tonight I ordered new plugs, wires, coil, and the relay.

    Any other thoughts guys?

    Thanks in advance

    #2
    Start off by checking spark and fuel. Diagnosing your car properly will save you time and money.

    It seems like it's a fuel problem. Maybe the relay took a shit, or the pump itself.

    Searching for information will turn up results way faster, because people don't want to waste their time answering questions that have been answered a million times.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Originally posted by wholepailofwater
    Q
    :devil:


    WTB: Dove Grey e36 Front Door Panels (2 door)

    Comment


      #3
      id swap main relays first and then check crank sensor

      Comment


        #4
        The patented Jim Levie list: (Search posts by jlevie)




        Start at the top and work to the bottom without skipping any checks.

        Idle or hard starting problems are most commonly caused by intake leaks and/or
        a sticky or defective Idle Control Valve (ICV). The only reliable method of
        locating intake leaks is to have a smoke test run on the intake and crank case
        and to test the brake booster with a gage and vacuum pump. The complete list
        of possible causes of an intake leak is:

        Intake boot
        Throttle body gasket
        ICV hoses & connections
        Brake booster, hoses, and connections
        Crank case breather hose
        Evaporative control hoses, valve, and expansion tank
        Fuel pressure regulator & hose
        Injector seals
        Valve cover gaskets & bungs
        Oil filler cap
        Dip stick o-rings
        Oil return tube o-rings
        Pan gasket or oil level sensor gasket

        While leaks in some of those can be found by inspection or by spraying carb
        cleaner on suspect areas, not finding leaks that way doesn't eliminate the
        possibility. Only a smoke test will really work.

        Once the possibility of intake leaks is eliminated, the ICV needs to be
        removed and cleaned with carb cleaner until the vane inside moves freely. When
        the ignition is switched on you should be able to feel vibration from the
        ICV. If no vibration the ICV is bad, there's a problem with its wiring or
        connector, there's a problem with the TPS, or the DME (or Idle Control Module
        (ICM) on an ETA car) is faulty.

        For the DME (or ICM) to control idle, the idle switch in the TPS must work
        correctly. The switch should close when the throttle stop is 0.030-0.060" off
        the idle stop screw. Hearing a click doesn't mean the TPS is working. Check
        with a meter or test light.

        The fuel system should be tested via the suite of tests in the Bentley manual
        as invalid rail pressure can be a contributor to idle and starting problems. A
        simple injector check is to pull the injectors, jumper the fuel relay to run
        the pump, and see if the injectors are leaking. You can also point the
        injectors into a towel, remove the coil wire, and crank the engine to see if
        all of the injectors appear to be spraying in a similar fashion. The best
        approach to possible injector problems is to have the injectors cleaned and
        flow tested. Since raw fuel can or will be released in these tests, have a
        fire extinguisher handy.

        While a bad check valve in the high pressure pump can result in longer than
        normal cranking, if the fuel system is working as it is supposed to the rail
        will reach normal pressure in a few turns of the engine. A weak pump, clogged
        filter or leaking FPR in conjunction with a failed check valve can result in
        longer cranking and/or idle poroblems.

        The O2 sensor can be a contributor to idle problems. The O2 sensor is a
        scheduled maintenance item with a useful life of no more than 100k. If the
        sensor has that mileage or more (or is of unknown age), replace it.

        The AFM can be a contributor. If the vane doesn't move freely or the
        resistance track is worn the DME may be receiving invalid data from the
        AFM. And if someone has fiddled with the bypass air adjustment the DME may be
        unable to stabilize idle. The bypass air adjustment should only be adjusted
        per the procedure in the Bentley and with an exhaust gas analyzer. And even
        then everything else associated with engine management has to first be
        operating properly. If the AFM becomes a suspect, replacement with a good used
        unit is the best approach.

        Improperly adjusted or malfunctioning valves will affect idle and starting. As
        can compression issues from ring or cylinder wear. A valve adjustment is
        called for every 15k. A useful diagnostic is to run compression (dry and wet)
        and leak down tests on the engine. Aged ignition wires, plugs, distributor
        cap, or rotor can cause problems. Insulation does break down with time and
        heat. And since the youngest E30 is going on 20 years old, if the ignition
        system is original or the plugs are old replacement is indicated.

        Although not usually a problem, a bad DME temp sensor is a possibility. That
        generally won't cause an unstable idle, but can cause hard cold or hard hot
        starts and/or a rough idle. As can problems with the timing reference
        sensors. Although not commonly encountered, a bad harmonic balancer on an
        M20B25 or M30 engine will cause problems.

        When all other possibilities have been eliminated and idle or starting
        problems persist, replacement of the DME, or if applicable the ICM, is
        indicated.

        In many cases the cause of problems will be a combination of factors. So it is
        important to test and repair all of the possible causes.
        __________________
        The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
        Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

        Comment


          #5
          thanks guys

          Comment


            #6
            Put in a couple more gallons of fuel.

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