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    How To Guide - E36 Steering Rack Swap

    BMW E30 -> E36 Steering Rack Swap

    This guide was created to explain how to swap an E36, E36 M3, and/or E36 Z3 steering rack into
    an E30. I do not consider this to be the only method to accomplish this swap so if you have suggestions please post them.


    Edits and Follow up notes looking back: I created this thread many years ago when I first started wrenching, now that I'm older I have revised a few notes but not the pictures because, well.. it helps me remember how far I've come over the years. I have done my best to preserve the original photos over the many updates that R3v has been through over the years but I fear a few are permanently lost. Luckily enough exist to help you still get the general idea.

    Most importantly I want readers to know the importance of using fresh seals, hardware, and a new reservoir because it is also the filter for the power steering system. There are now a number of kits that you can buy to modify your steering knuckle and I honestly do not have a preference. Just be sure whatever you install is safe and secure. More than anything I am glad that this thread has helped many of you and appreciate everyone that has chimed in to help improve this process over the years. Thank you!

    A special thanks to my friend Josh (HST) for helping out.

    The Parts You Need: - Quoted from BMAParts.com


    Item - BMW Part Number - Qty - Price

    7/16 Bolt 2 Inches Long - - xxxxxxxxxxxx - - - - -x2 - - -$???
    Bolt M10x50 - - - - - - - - - 26111226737 - - - - x2 - - -$2.70
    Self Locking Nuts - - - - - - 07129964672 - - - - x2 - - -$0.60
    Copper Seals 14x20 - - - - -32411093596 - - - - -x4 - - -$0.68
    Copper Seals 16x22 - - - - -32411093597 - - - - -x4 - - -$1.04
    Self Locking Nuts - - - - - - 07129922716 - - - - -x4 - - $1.20
    Power Steering Res. - - - - -32411097164 - - - - x1 - - -$19.50
    High Pres. PS Hose - - - - - 32411141953 - - - - -x1 - - -$74.00
    Spacer - - - - - - - - - - - -72118119268 - - - - -x1 - - -$2.05
    Spacer - - - - - - - - - - - -72111847480 - - - - -x2 - - -$1.92
    Nut - - - - - - - - - - - - - -72111977925 - - - - -x2 - - -$1.10
    LP PS Return Hoses - - - - - xxxxxxxxxxx - - - - - x2 - - -$14.50
    Bottle of ATF - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -x1 - - -$2.50
    Tacos - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -- - - - - - -x3 - - -$2.75


    Steering Racks

    92-98 E36 3.2 Turn to Lock Ratio Rack - Ebay - Tom's FAP - $125.00

    92-98 E36 3.2 Turn to Lock Ratio Rack - Maval Rebuilt - $270.13

    95 E36 M3 3.0 Turn to Lock Ratio Rack - Maval Rebuilt - $270.13

    95-97 E36 Z3 1.9L 2.7 Turn to Lock Ratio Rack - Maval Rebuilt - $317.59

    Steering Racks Purchased from BMA have a $150 Core Charge.

    Total Cost = $256.57 - $449.16


    The Tools You Need

    3/8 Ratchet
    1/2 Ratchet
    3/8 Sockets = 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 17mm, 19mm, 22mm
    1/2 Sockets = 17mm, 19mm, 22mm
    Open End Wrenches = 13mm, 15mm, 17mm, 19mm
    Hammer & Wooden Block
    Vice Grips
    Flat Head Screw Driver
    Table Vice
    Tape Measure
    Hydraulic Jack & 2 Jack Stands
    Dremel

    Getting the Job Done

    Step 1: Jack up the vehicle and set it on jack stands.


    Step 2: Remove both front wheels from the car.


    Step 3: Turn your steering wheel all the way to each side and remove the tie rod ends from the strut.

    NOTE: Use a jack to raise the strut up on the control arm ball joint and then use a hammer and a block of wood to knock the tie rod end out of the strut. See Pic.







    Step 4: Remove the old tie rod boots using a flat head screw driver to pry the boot clamps loose.

    NOTE: This is what a rack will look like when it finally takes a shit.







    Step 5: Bend the tie rod locking plates off of the inner tie rod






    Step 6: Remove the inner tie rods from the steering rack using the vice grips, 32mm wrench, or Pipe Wrench.





    Step 7: Drain the power steering fluid from the PS reservoir with a fluid evac tool or drain from by disconnecting the low pressure suction hose at the pump.






    Step 8: Disconnect all power steering hoses from the PS pump and the steering rack.

    x2 19mm Banjo Bolts & x2 22mm Banjo Bolts


    NOTE: KEEP ALL BANJO BOLTS REMOVED FROM THE STEERING RACK AND THE PS PUMP!






    Step 9: Remove the PS Reservoir by loosening the 13mm bolt shown below. Then remove the low pressure lines and save the hose ends for the new low pressure hoses.

    Removing the PS Res. with the bracket makes it easier to remove and loosen the 10mm bolt that clamps it in place.







    Step 10: Loosen the 13mm bolts that hold the steering knuckle in place.








    Step 11: Unbolt steering rack from the subframe by loosening the 15mm bolts holding it in place.









    Step 12: Carefully bend back the lower tabs on the subframe that support the bottom part of the steering rack.

    (Note: Yes, this is a cheap shade tree hack and technically you should drop the subframe for clearance, but this method works great provided you do not have a rusty old subframe. If so, then its best to replace the front subframe and rack together.)





















































    Step 13: Drop the old steering rack from the steering knuckle.









    Step 14: Remove the steering knuckle from the steering column spline.

    NOTE: Using a flat head screw driver helps to open the knuckle at the spline to make it drop. See Picture Below.










    Step 15: Eat some tacos and drink some beer!






    Step 16: Using a Dremel (or anything much better) - Grind down the rivets that hold the steering knuckle together and pop them out to separate the two pieces.











    Step 17: Using a Dremel w/ cutting blade - Cut the aluminum spacer in half.










    Step 18: Use the 7/16 - 2 Inch Bolts & Spacer Halves to shorten the length of the steering knuckle U-joint. Make sure to put Loctite on the bolt threads to make sure the knuckle does not come apart.

    NOTE: Use washers to make both sides even it needed.









    Step 19: Tighten the bolts together and test the knuckle for any play. This is what the finished product should resemble.






    Step 20: Tap the knuckle onto the steering column spline and tighten the 13mm bolt to secure it.




    Step 21: Use a wrench to try and make the rack as even as possible. Use a tape measure to ensure both sides of the rack are even.









    Step 22: Line the steering wheel up straight and lock it in place. Slowly push the new rack onto the bottom of the knuckle. Once in place tighten the 13mm bolt to secure it.

    NOTE: This step may take some time. Be patient and rock the rack while pushing. This is somewhat like stabbing transmission back onto an engine. Here is a picture of the finished product.







    Step 23: Tap the lower tabs on the subframe to bend them back into place.




    Step 24: Line the holes up on the steering rack with the holes in the subframe. Place your short spacers and bolt the rack into place.








    Step 25: Unlock the steering wheel and turn it to check for any binding.

    NOTE: If there is some slight binding in the knuckle use a Dremel with a grinding bit to grind out some of the joint. Keep checking the wheel until there is not sign of binding in the steering wheel.







    Step 26: Using your hands, bend the high pressure PS line to make it match up with the new steering rack then temporarily bolt it in place.

    NOTE: The line to the rack requires very little bending to match up with the rack.





    Step 27: Take notes of what bends are needed to match the hose up with the PS Pump. Use a vice or pipe bender to make the appropriate bends.

    NOTE: This will take a few tries. Be sure not to bend the metal line at too much of an angle if using a bench vice or you could damage it.





    Step 28: Place your new copper crush washers on the appropriate banjo bolts and bolt down the high pressure PS hose to the rack and PS pump. Torque to ~26ft lb and be careful not to over torque.











    Step 29: Install the low pressure hose ends in the new hoses and clamp them in place. Then attach them to the new PS reservoir.







    Step 30: Install the new PS reservoir into the engine bay.









    Step 31: Bolt up the new suction and return low pressure PS hoses to the steering rack and PS pump.







    Step 32: Fill the PS reservoir with ATF. Start the car and turn the wheel to both sides a few times to circulate the new fluid. Check for leakage and add more fluid when needed.




    Step 33: Reinstall the tie rod ends with new locking plates, and don't forget to install a solid set of tie rod boots.
    You can use zip ties to seat and seal the boots at both ends if you do not have new metal clamps. What's important here is that your new rack ends are sealed up well to avoid contamination from the elements.

    Inner Tie Rods should be torqued to ~40 - 47ft lb
    Outer Tie Rod end nuts should be torqued to ~ 31 - 42ft lb




    Step 34: Bolt your wheels back on (be sure to properly torque them to ~80ft lb), lower the car off the jack stands, and take for a test drive.
    Last edited by RobertK; 02-27-2023, 04:46 PM.

    #2
    mmm.. tacos.

    Thank you for write up.
    Well done with the pics !
    -----Zen and the Art of e30 Maintenance - / - Zen TOC - / - Zen Summary

    Comment


      #3
      TY.. The tacos are the best part of this project.

      Comment


        #4
        very nice write-up, this is only for non-airbag cars right?

        As time went on, the factory developed the car each year, making it faster, more comfortable, and capable of handling at higher speeds.
        You don’t want this. You want the trickiest, most dangerous, oldest model you can find. Only then can you prove to the world that you’re a man.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by madjurgen
          very nice write-up, this is only for non-airbag cars right?
          This is for all E30 cars. The only extra step needed to install the rack in an E30 that has an air bag is to fabricate a new plate at the firewall that moves the steering column over a bit.

          Comment


            #6
            do you have pics of the existing plate in the firewall?
            Renting my rear wheel bearing tool kit. SIR
            http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c5...ps6debf0b0.jpg

            Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Ritalin Kid
              Step 12: Carefully bend back the lower tabs on the subframe that support the bottom part of the steering rack.
              Good writeup, although i disagree with step 12. I don't advise bending the tabs to get the rack out. It can be wiggled out without bending anything.

              -Erik

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by erik325i
                Good writeup, although i disagree with step 12. I don't advise bending the tabs to get the rack out. It can be wiggled out without bending anything.

                -Erik
                You cannot remove the rack by pulling it to the side because you have to pull straight down to pull the rack off the steering knuckle. You cannot wiggle the rack straight down with the tabs in the way nor can you wiggle it left or right. The oil pan sump is too low to allow the rack to come back far enough to clear the tabs. Take a good look a the picture for Step 11.

                The alternative is to unbolt the motor mounts, lift the engine, and possibly remove the oil pan.

                The tabs are very strong and would require ALOT of repetitive bending to damage them.

                Originally posted by ///M42 sport
                do you have pics of the existing plate in the firewall?
                I had seen them on a the CentralBimmer.com website but it seems to be down right now. If it comes back up I will post a link.

                Comment


                  #9
                  You forgot one important part. A GOOD FRIEND TO HELP YOUR ASS OUT.
                  Originally posted by KingB
                  Scratch my back and I buy a prostitute for you, to rub your balls. HAHA now thats some funny shit.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Ritalin Kid
                    You cannot remove the rack by pulling it to the side because you have to pull straight down to pull the rack off the steering knuckle. You cannot wiggle the rack straight down with the tabs in the way nor can you wiggle it left or right. The oil pan sump is too low to allow the rack to come back far enough to clear the tabs. Take a good look a the picture for Step 11.

                    The alternative is to unbolt the motor mounts, lift the engine, and possibly remove the oil pan.

                    The tabs are very strong and would require ALOT of repetitive bending to damage them.
                    I would rather lift the engine slightly than bend the tabs. That is how I did the last two racks I replaced...
                    But, whatever floats your boat...

                    -Erik

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by HST
                      You forgot one important part. A GOOD FRIEND TO HELP YOUR ASS OUT.
                      This is true.. the post was limited to 10,000 characters and it's exactly that.

                      Props to HST (Josh) to helping me out.. If I had to do it by myself it would have been a bitch & 1/2.

                      I would rather lift the engine slightly than bend the tabs. That is how I did the last two racks I replaced... But, whatever floats your boat...
                      The thread is for those who might not have access to an engine lift (like me) and want to do the swap. The only way you could damage the tabs by bending them would be if you intentionally bent them back and forth at over a 45 degree angle multiple times. Unless your's are starting to rust, then bending them should not be a problem.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Nice write and good pics to boot.You really took the time to snap pics of every step which is something I dont ever seem to do. Thanks alot as I will be doing a swap very soon (I have all the rack parts I need but,waiting for new CA's & TR's before I do mine)
                        sigpic
                        Wastedincome420@yahoo.com

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                        Comment


                          #13
                          Control Arms are a fun job in themselves.. A word of advice.. get a 22mm ratcheting box end swivelhead wrench. It will save your triceps and your time.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Ritalin Kid
                            Control Arms are a fun job in themselves.. A word of advice.. get a 22mm ratcheting box end swivelhead wrench. It will save your triceps and your time.
                            Supporting the motor with a floor jack and lowering the subframe makes it 100x easier too.


                            Keep it slideways!!

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Axxe
                              Supporting the motor with a floor jack and lowering the subframe makes it 100x easier too.
                              That is alot more dangerous IMO. It gives you less wiggle room underneath the car because there is a jack in the way and if the jack gives or you accidentally knock it loose you could fuck alot of shit up or possibly get injured. It took 2 of us to get the rack loose and 2 of us to get the new one in.

                              I remember replacing Josh's oil pan using the floor jack method to hold the engine up. It was a nightmare and at one point the jack did fall but we got lucky and the motor mount got caught on the frame of the car.

                              If you want to lower the subframe and lift the engine I only suggest doing it with an engine hoist or a cherry picker. But realistically, my tab bending method works and is 99.9% safe and it saves you alot of time.

                              Comment

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