Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

No power to the ignition

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    No power to the ignition

    Sorry if it's already been asked, search function is running me in circles.

    '88 325ic, sat for 15 years. Power to lights, and turn signals.
    Nothing to ignition, can't roll windows down.
    Where do I start looking? Removed 10lbs. of aftermarket wiring thinking it might've been the issue, no change.

    Cables are running from the battery to fuse box, everything looks to be plugged in. Ground's?, location?
    What runs power to the ignition/ gauges?
    Thank you.

    #2
    http://wedophones.com/Manuals/BMW/19...g%20Manual.pdf

    Comment


      #3
      Give us a more detailed list about what works / doesn't work at each position of the ignition switch (ACC / RUN / START).

      Based on what you've briefly mentioned, I'd guess the electrical portion of the ignition switch might be bad, but it could also be the unloader relay(s), the C101 connector or the wiring itself.

      You were super careful when removing the aftermarket wiring so as to not yank at it and disturb any of the other connectors, right? (ask me how I know this).
      101

      The E30 collection:
      1987 325es M52 - Schwarz / Taurus Red Sport (son #2's)
      1987 325is - Delphin / Black Sport (son #3's)
      1987 325i Convertible - Triple Black
      1989 325iX Coupe - Diamondschwarz / Black Comfort
      1990 325iX Coupe - Sterling Silver / Grey Sport

      1981 Fiat 124 Spider 2000 - Green / Tan
      1998 Volvo V70 GLT - White / Tan
      1998 Volvo S70 T5 manual - White / Taupe
      2001 Ford Windstar - Silver / Grey (parts hauler)
      2006 Lexus GX470 - White / Tan (tow rig)

      Comment


        #4
        Thanks,
        Nothing comes on at each position of the key, like the ignition is useless.
        I've swapped in ignition switch on my other e30, but it was when I had no power to the start position. Would bad switch= no power in all key positions?
        Where would be the location of c101 and underloader relay?
        Wiring looks fine, I've done dash swap on the other car, this one is back to stock wiring, no cut wires or loose grounds.

        Comment


          #5
          Hmm ... First things first. Check for power going into the switch. Do you have 12V between the fat (10 gauge) red wire that feeds the ignition switch and ground? That wire is hot at all times.

          C101 is the big round connector mounted on the firewall near the fuse block. And the unloader relays (there are two) are in the fuse block. But I'd focus on whether there is power getting to the ignition switch and then if power is coming out of the switch before jumping into anything else.

          The wiring schematic that vpilarrt mentions above is invaluable.
          101

          The E30 collection:
          1987 325es M52 - Schwarz / Taurus Red Sport (son #2's)
          1987 325is - Delphin / Black Sport (son #3's)
          1987 325i Convertible - Triple Black
          1989 325iX Coupe - Diamondschwarz / Black Comfort
          1990 325iX Coupe - Sterling Silver / Grey Sport

          1981 Fiat 124 Spider 2000 - Green / Tan
          1998 Volvo V70 GLT - White / Tan
          1998 Volvo S70 T5 manual - White / Taupe
          2001 Ford Windstar - Silver / Grey (parts hauler)
          2006 Lexus GX470 - White / Tan (tow rig)

          Comment


            #6
            :101
            Thank you much.
            Tested for power going to the switch which I had, so i was to assume the switch was faulty.
            Instead of replacing, I was able to clean off the corrosion and re-use it.
            So I now have, power, spark, and crank...
            No chance I can bring this dead fuel pump back? Then again, best in the long run to replace it anyway I suppose.

            Comment

            Working...
            X