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325I intake on 325E... p.o. problems left to me

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    325I intake on 325E... p.o. problems left to me

    So recently I've had a mechanic make a valve in the side of my intake manifold to give my fuel pressure reguator a vaccuum, as the previous owner swapped the intake for the 325E on my car with a 325I...


    So basically, after swapping the Idle control valve, and installing that valve, the car idles perfectly, AFTER it is initially ran for a minute or two, sometimes not. I theorize this is because of the difference in intake manifold not giving enough vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator until a little bit into running it.

    After it has been running for 30 seconds to a minute with throttle, normal driving, it will idle perfectly for the whole time I use it until I turn it off. if I start the car back up right away after recently driving it, it idles perfectly. but if I wait over a half hour it does not. This makes me think that it has to do with the vacuum to the FPR being incorrect due to the intake manifold being for a 325I.....


    so basically I'm wondering if my theory is correct here? I would really prefer to do this work myself as I'm sick of either having to drive over 100 miles to a good mechanic or getting ripped off by local mechanics. I typically get a couple days off from work so I should be able to have atleast 2 days to work on this at some point, but for now I consider it completely driveable as it only takes around a minute to achieve this prime running condition. but I'm not satisfied with it so that's why i'm posting here.
    here's some old pics of the engine before I had the mechanic install a new valve for the FPR and a new idle control valve. I will take pictures at some point today hopefully.

    been trying to figure this out for a little while now and am still really wondering, it idles damn near perfect after it's been drove like 5 mins. (I can still sense a /very/ subtle sputter, but it's still very smooth. when I start it, without fail I /have/ to apply a slight amount of throttle to get it to start up, then it's ok after that.)
    Attached Files

    #2
    If it still has the 200 (stock E head) I would put the stock parts back on, it is just a bad combination of parts. If it has an 885 head I would switch over the rest of the I injection/ignition parts
    My M20 Frankenbuild(s)
    4 Sale - Fully Built TurnKey Megasquirt Plug and Play EMS

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      #3
      agreed^

      if your keeping it an ETA i would just return it to the proper Intake Manifold and avoid this type of issue anymore. just look in the junkyards to find an ETA manifold.

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        #4
        yes it still has the original ETA head, I checked. ok, so does it seem like this problem would come from the improper manifold? I just want to make sure it isnt' something like my cold start system or something like that. but it seems at this point it would be easier to just start putting it back to stock then see how it behaves huh?

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          #5
          You're definitely better off with the eta intake manifold, check the "for sale" section here first. However, I can't imagine this issue being caused by the wrong manifold. Wrong FPR, possibly, but you'd notice that all through the driving range (2.5 bar for the eta's, I believe). Check your cold start system, if you need to apply throttle after it's been sitting for half an hour, it may not be functioning properly, or not at all. You shouldn't have to apply throttle on startup. Your throttle position sensor could be wonky too.

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            #6
            Originally posted by NoM54me View Post
            You're definitely better off with the eta intake manifold, check the "for sale" section here first. However, I can't imagine this issue being caused by the wrong manifold. Wrong FPR, possibly, but you'd notice that all through the driving range (2.5 bar for the eta's, I believe). Check your cold start system, if you need to apply throttle after it's been sitting for half an hour, it may not be functioning properly, or not at all. You shouldn't have to apply throttle on startup. Your throttle position sensor could be wonky too.
            Thanks for your reply. I do not notice any weird driving on acceleration or anything like that. After the car has been running about 5 minutes the problem dissapears. Then it idles perfectly.

            What are the symtoms of a tps going out? How easy is it to replace?

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