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87' 325e died while in gear turns over but wont start

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    87' 325e died while in gear turns over but wont start

    Hello, this is my first post. I have managed to find just about all the answers to all of the other fun problems in prior threads but im coming up short on my current issue. I drive a 1987 325e sedan with a March birthday.

    Heres the deal, this started maybe 3 months ago I noticed a loss of power during acceleration it feels more like when you are learning to drive a manual and haven't quite nailed down your clutch to gas rhythm. The car is kind of sputters acts as if its going to stall out then acts as if nothing is wrong, there is also no real rhyme or reason to it whether the engine is hot or cold, if the temperature outside is hot, cold, dry, or wet. Sometimes ill have a month where it wont happen or a day where it acts up every time I accelerate. Only twice has this sputtering killed the engine while driving and in gear, i was able to turn the key and fire it right back up as if nothing had happened. Now the 3rd time was the charm, I was of course in 3rd gear it sputtered and died, this time it will not fire back up. If i turn the key It turns over it has spark and fuel it just wont start. I can hear the fuel pump going, I replaced the crankshaft sensor today with no avail. am at the point where I think it might be a ground???? Im stumped any hints as to what going on would be much appreciated.

    #2
    Take the oil filler cap off and have someone turn the car over. See if the cam is turning
    Originally posted by codyep3
    I hope to Christ you have looks going for you, because you sure as fuck don't have any intelligence.
    2001 silver/Blk 325 cabby. SOLD
    1988 Blk/Blk e30 factory wide body kit car SOLD
    1992 DS/BLK 325 m-tech II apperance pack cabby SOLD!
    2002 325xit Sil/blk. SOLD
    2012 328i xdrive touring. Wht/blk. SOLD
    2009 135 cabby. monacoblue/blk leather SOLD
    2007 Z4m coupe. Silver grey/black/ aluminum. 1of50
    2010 F650gs twin
    2016 M235i cabby. Mineral grey/Red leather

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      #3
      Ill give it a shot, is there something specific i should be looking for? if there's no cam motion what would that lead to?

      Comment


        #4
        No cam movement means your timing belt broke, with a good possibility that some valves are bent.

        If that's good I would check your AFM to see if the flap isn't stuck or something.

        Comment


          #5
          Alright, so pulled the oil filler cap the cam shaft is moving. Ive got fuel and spark. looked at the AFM and its not open or stuck.... oui vey! is there anything else that could be causing this. I just went through and cleaned all my grounds as well. Could the ECM or is there another computer somewhere that could be causing this?

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            #6
            Anybody got anything?

            Comment


              #7
              When you say you've got fuel, what do you mean?
              Did you do a fuel pressure test? If you have some fuel you may not have enough pressure to push fuel through the injectors. A soon to die fuel pump could cause the problem. How old is your fuel filter? I'd tee in a fuel pressure gauge to your fuel line and see how many PSI you have. Also pull the vacuum hose frome your Fuel Pressure regulator to see if any fuel is getting past a bad regulator.
              Last edited by ahlem; 06-19-2017, 06:05 AM. Reason: added FPR

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                #8
                I have fuel pressure, I just changed the in line pump and fuel filter did the test and all of that. Did not change the pump in the tank but I can hear in ticking away in there and the pressure is fine. The new issue i'm finding is the spark. I just put a new battery in the car, changed the wires, distributor cap and rotor less than 1 year ago. When i do the electric test i have power all the way to the coil and from the coil to the distributor cap but from there I am getting no spark at the plugs? the distributor cap and rotor look fine on a visual inspection no crack or carbon deposits there is a little pitting in the tips but nothing absurd.

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                  #9
                  Seems to be the season for eta tough starting. In my case it was a no warm start. Was fine hot or cold. Turned out to be the cps which is on the trans housing not the crank, so not sure which you replaced.
                  Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

                  https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
                  Alice the Time Capsule
                  http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
                  87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

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                    #10
                    I was going to say crank position sensor


                    it's a Kenny Powers quote on wheels

                    Comment


                      #11
                      It's actually an FPS on an eta :)
                      Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

                      https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
                      Alice the Time Capsule
                      http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
                      87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I went ahead and replaced the CPS down on the bell housing but that didn't seem to change anything. Im gonna try finding a Motronic ECU to see if that does the trick. One other suspect might be the coil but when I ran the Bentley test it read .5 ohms on the 1-15, and was reading 3k ohms on 1-4 I believe it should read at 5k If it were over 5k then it would be bad, correct? if that is correct then im assuming it would have to be the ECU?

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Mine Too...

                          I have an 86 325e and mine just started doing something similar, with a little pattern.
                          Mine seems to stall out at about 1500 rpm, mostly in second. But I spend a lot of time in second, so there's that...
                          It only dies once in awhile with the clutch in.

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