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FEELER: E30 Strut Brace

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    #16
    I'm in! PayPal?

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      #17
      Originally posted by raudonis
      I'm not interested in buying, but have a question.
      Do e30s in USA typically have solid front strut towers that are in spec with factory measurements?
      Here distance between strut towers varies so greatly car to car, you would have a hell of job mounting 100% solid brace to a different e30 that was not used for mock-up.
      Local fabricators resort to this type of design that allows adjustability and more degrees of freedom:


      "The BMW factory published body specification shows the distance between the strut towers should be 1002.2mm +/-2mm (39.5"), measured from center to center at the strut bearing opening in the inner fenders. The bar we manufacture is 1002.2mm, the published spec. However; we have found many cars (ranged across all years and models) can vary, depending on wear to the shock towers over time and imprecise manufacturing tolerances during the car's production. There is no published factory documentation of any difference in the body dimensions. We suggest you measure to ensure our brace will work without modification. "
      sigpic

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        #18
        I like it, but it looks backwards. Most e30 bars bend or "hug" fire wall side of bay. Any reason yours is more like the e36 straight-across style. Will these come raw or painted/pc'd ?


        Please leave feedback below, thanks

        http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=358170

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          #19
          ^ I was thinking the same thing. IMO the longer tube should be close to the firewall.

          The craftsmanship looks great! Nice work!
          I Timothy 2:1-2

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            #20
            So to answer all of your questions:

            Fitment:
            There is some deviation between cars, however, several companies make bars that are solid and they seem to work just fine. To combat the size differences I've built some room in the bar for movement. I've oversized the bolt holes and the center hole of the end plates by a couple of mm to accommodate differences in chassis size. That is really the absolute best thing I can do. In my opinion, and experience through testing, you get a lot more flex out of adjustable components, which isn't desirable for a part made to stiffen the chassis. Think about what the bar is trying to accomplish, then think about how those hinged brackets move and flex when the car tries to twist in cornering. It's just not as effective. I like to make parts that look nice, but they have to work also.

            Design:
            I tried a few different layouts before settling on this one. The reason I like the "E36 style" setup is that it adds more rigidity. As someone who has built a lot of cages I'm very familiar with how tubing acts under stress. Straight shots are always stiffer and stronger than multiple high angle bends. I also wanted to attach the bars on the end plate centered circle. This gives a more even application of pressure to the strut tower when there is twisting in the chassis.

            That being said, the placement of the longer bar in the front allows me to avoid the bolts (necessary, obviously) while still allowing access to the oil fill and brake fluid reservoir on M50 swapped cars (see pictures). The bars that hug the firewall typically don't have a fat top plate with dimple dies. That would protrude far enough out to also obstruct the oil fill.

            In other news, no test fit on an M20 yet. Sorry for the delay, I'm trying to make it happen ASAP. Again, thanks for all of the feedback and patience, and please don't hesitate to keep the questions and suggestions coming.
            sigpicLevel Motorsport: www.levelmotorsport.com

            Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/levelmotorsport/

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              #21
              Oh, finish.


              They will come either primed or painted. I plan to use the same industrial grade electrostatic paint on these as I do on my cages. I am offering primer so that those of you who would like to paint to match your car/bay can do so.

              I'm thinking I'll offer primer, then two standard colors. What colors would you guys like to see?
              sigpicLevel Motorsport: www.levelmotorsport.com

              Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/levelmotorsport/

              Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/LeVelIndustries/?fref=ts

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                #22
                Originally posted by RoccoB517 View Post
                So to answer all of your questions:

                I tried a few different layouts before settling on this one. The reason I like the "E36 style" setup is that it adds more rigidity. As someone who has built a lot of cages I'm very familiar with how tubing acts under stress. Straight shots are always stiffer and stronger than multiple high angle bends. I also wanted to attach the bars on the end plate centered circle. This gives a more even application of pressure to the strut tower when there is twisting in the chassis.

                That being said, the placement of the longer bar in the front allows me to avoid the bolts (necessary, obviously) while still allowing access to the oil fill and brake fluid reservoir on M50 swapped cars (see pictures). The bars that hug the firewall typically don't have a fat top plate with dimple dies. That would protrude far enough out to also obstruct the oil fill.
                Im not trying to bash, just curious, as im thinking about ordering.



                Please leave feedback below, thanks

                http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=358170

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                  #23
                  Yes, that's why I said "typically" instead of "always". I really like the bar that Mason makes, but there isn't really a reason for me to duplicate that design. It wouldn't be more difficult for me to make them in that style, but I want to offer different options, even if that means someone likes the Mason bar more than mine and buys that instead. It's my humble opinion that copying quells innovation and limits options. That is the reason I am not marketing "severe duty" skid plates. I make them for people locally, sure, but until I can design something better (No welding necessary, more aerodynamic, lighter, etc) then I won't just be another guy making the same skid plate. I hope that all makes sense.


                  It's also worth noting that I mounded the bars in a way that allows easy access for those of us with camber plates and shock adjustment. This, in my opinion, is the one downside to the Mason bar.
                  Last edited by RoccoB517; 09-28-2014, 02:17 PM.
                  sigpicLevel Motorsport: www.levelmotorsport.com

                  Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/levelmotorsport/

                  Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/LeVelIndustries/?fref=ts

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                    #24
                    I want so bad but need to see clearance on the m30!!


                    1989 325is l 1984 euro 320i l 1970 2002 Racecar
                    1991 318i 4dr slick top


                    Euro spec 320i/Alpina B6 3.5 project(the never ending saga)
                    Vintage race car revival (2002 content)
                    Mtech 2 turbo restoration
                    Brilliantrot slick top "build"

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                      #25
                      I actually really like the design compared to the typical E30 bar. We'll see if it clears the M20 though!
                      BimmerHeads
                      Classic BMW Specialists
                      Santa Clarita, CA

                      www.BimmerHeads.com

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by MR 325 View Post
                        I actually really like the design compared to the typical E30 bar. We'll see if it clears the M20 though!
                        As soon as I know, you'll know. Chattanooga, TN isn't exactly the Bimmer hub of America. If I was building Mustang parts I'd have 6000 cars to test fit on :)
                        sigpicLevel Motorsport: www.levelmotorsport.com

                        Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/levelmotorsport/

                        Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/LeVelIndustries/?fref=ts

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                          #27
                          Very nice! I'm in for the first batch. Perhaps offer three basic finishes? 1. Powdercoat satin black 2. Powdercoat gloss red. 3. Clearcoat natural?

                          Swen

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                            #28
                            Id be down for natural finish. Does the straight style offer more strength or is it hard to tell?


                            Please leave feedback below, thanks

                            http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=358170

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Originally posted by RoccoB517 View Post
                              As soon as I know, you'll know. Chattanooga, TN isn't exactly the Bimmer hub of America. If I was building Mustang parts I'd have 6000 cars to test fit on :)
                              I bet we can find you at least a handful you can use to test fit if you bring some prototypes up this way. ;) jb35 and tn325i are in your neck of the woods though.
                              Originally posted by kronus
                              would be in depending on tip slant and tube size

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                                #30
                                uwwww...I'd be in.
                                Click here to leave me feedback on our transactions. :p

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