Have you checked for vacuum leaks? They're extremely common, as there's a lot of different places they can happen. Check all your rubber hoses (don't forget the one going across to the crank case), intake boot, and brake booster vacuum lines, but also check where the aluminum fittings go into the throttle body - they're just friction fit, and when they get old and worn, they stop sealing. You can also leak vacuum out the dipstick tube, it's got a rubber hose holding it to the oil pan, as well as the O-rings on the dipstick itself.
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Car wont hold a steady idle... UGH!
Collapse
X
-
Have you check your throttle position sensor (switch)?
Make sure the switch is closed at idle position.
Also, check for water and corrosion in the fuel rail injector harness plug
This fixed my idle problem.1988 325 non-letter Seta "Bronzit"
1991 325ic "Laguna Green" (Sold)
1993 325i "Laguna Green/Silver" (Sold)
1998 528i "Artic Silver" m-sport(totalled by drunk driver)
2000 528i Titansilber/gray m-sport
2000 528i Titansilber/black m-sport(sold)
2001 525i Anthracite m-sport(sold)
2013 750i Black/Black m-sport "Beast"
Comment
-
Originally posted by cscracker View PostHere's a picture of mine:
This is taken from the passenger side, the blue one is the one for the ECU, brown one is for the cluster. My car only has two sensors, and the other two holes have plugs in them. Your car has four sensors in the thermostat housing, so I'm not sure what the other two are for.Originally posted by estoguy View PostSomething else you can try is using the wider end of the spark plug gap spec. Using a gap at the wider end can help an unsteady idle as well. I use NGK ZGR5As and they are factory gapped to the wider end. Never had a problem with idle since I made the switch to them not long after getting my Eta.
Originally posted by cscracker View PostHave you checked for vacuum leaks? They're extremely common, as there's a lot of different places they can happen. Check all your rubber hoses (don't forget the one going across to the crank case), intake boot, and brake booster vacuum lines, but also check where the aluminum fittings go into the throttle body - they're just friction fit, and when they get old and worn, they stop sealing. You can also leak vacuum out the dipstick tube, it's got a rubber hose holding it to the oil pan, as well as the O-rings on the dipstick itself.
Originally posted by Kershaw View PostI would have said a vacuum test too, but he said he had a smoke test done.Originally posted by wilholl View PostHave you check your throttle position sensor (switch)?
Make sure the switch is closed at idle position.
Also, check for water and corrosion in the fuel rail injector harness plug
This fixed my idle problem.
Originally posted by Simmie View PostI was having a similar surging idle issue along with intermittent trouble starting. Both problems were fixed by replacing the spark plugs.Last edited by blackmist27; 02-06-2017, 07:28 PM.
Comment
-
Originally posted by JIM1inWisconsin View PostHad two e30's with idle problems that were cured instantly after installing a Mark D chip that I got used for $75. Amazing. Same chip used in both cars. Not sure exactly why this worked but I'm a simple minded pragmatist and it seems you've tried everything else.
Comment
-
If you ate doing plugs, replace the wires and distributor cap/rotor. Get good Bremi wires, not that BavAuto crap.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalksigpic
1987 325e Lachssilber w/ MarkD chip and late bumpers, Zender EVO spoiler, s3.25 LSD
Originally posted by nandoI don't think there's really strong evidence that ZDDP harms cats.
Comment
-
surging is not good... idle control valve has a lot to do with it... pull it and clean it.
although the m20 seems to have a rough idle... mine has been sorta rough forever...
seems normal... she purrs though...
for what its worth~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
'90 325i sedan daily driven
'85 325e coupe also a daily
Comment
-
Originally posted by blackmist27 View PostUPDATE:
so i THINK* i solved the surging problem. i replaced the sensor that sits on top of the thermostat housing that looks like a nut with 2 prongs coming off of it. my car now drives as it should. fingers crossed but i think its solved. thanks everyone!
Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk
Comment
Comment