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How To Guide - E36 Steering Rack Swap

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    If im not mistaken i have the same steering joint on my euro 89 316i (non airbag). It fits fine if u remove the rubber bushing, rotate the halves 90° to line up the holes and use a couple bolts, nuts and spacers to get the correct length required.
    Alpine White 1989 E30 Coupe - LS1/T56

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      Ok I will give that a shot. Thanks for the quick reply
      Dale
      1991 E30 Touring

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        Since I'm doing this on a euro shaft connection, I don't know what size of spacers I need. Does anyone have an out to out dimension for the steering joint? Like what the total length is when complete?
        Dale
        1991 E30 Touring

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          I test fit with a few washers on mine. Once everything was lined up and installed, I removed the bolts and washers and measured the stack of washers to get the size needed. I think it was around 1/4in or so for me.
          Alpine White 1989 E30 Coupe - LS1/T56

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            Originally posted by RobertK View Post
            You cannot remove the rack by pulling it to the side because you have to pull straight down to pull the rack off the steering knuckle. You cannot wiggle the rack straight down with the tabs in the way nor can you wiggle it left or right. The oil pan sump is too low to allow the rack to come back far enough to clear the tabs. Take a good look a the picture for Step 11.

            The alternative is to unbolt the motor mounts, lift the engine, and possibly remove the oil pan.

            The tabs are very strong and would require ALOT of repetitive bending to damage them.



            I had seen them on a the CentralBimmer.com website but it seems to be down right now. If it comes back up I will post a link.
            I removed my rack without bending the tabs. Just took some wiggling

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              Okay guys, I'm trying to figure out how the PS lines go. I don't have the engine in, figured it would be easier to do it now rather than later, so I just have it mocked up. I ended up reusing one of the LP lines (will put a new hose on it later) since the fitting didn't have the same bend in it, and it was easier to run it to the reservoir. The HP line is also running really close to the steering knuckle. I've read that this bend needs to be opened up a bit, but the way I have it run, it looks like that would actually make the problem worse, maybe it's going the wrong way? Here's some pics, tell me what you think.

              Edit: I'm thinking I'm gonna flip around the HP hose and see if that works out better.

              Edit 2: I don't see how that's going to work.



              Last edited by rturbo 930; 07-11-2015, 01:59 PM.

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                The

                Originally posted by rturbo 930 View Post
                Okay guys, I'm trying to figure out how the PS lines go. I don't have the engine in, figured it would be easier to do it now rather than later, so I just have it mocked up. I ended up reusing one of the LP lines (will put a new hose on it later) since the fitting didn't have the same bend in it, and it was easier to run it to the reservoir. The HP line is also running really close to the steering knuckle. I've read that this bend needs to be opened up a bit, but the way I have it run, it looks like that would actually make the problem worse, maybe it's going the wrong way? Here's some pics, tell me what you think.

                Edit: I'm thinking I'm gonna flip around the HP hose and see if that works out better.

                Edit 2: I don't see how that's going to work.







                Looks like your getting close!

                You could gently bent then HP line away from the knuckle to create the space you need

                Mine was an 84 325e with early e OE hoses e36 rack swap.

                I just had to flip the HP hose over (one connected to rack in your picture ) and reinstall banjo bolt from the opposite side. Then flip the pump side to match. It moves the steel line closer to the steering knuckle but allowed me ~1" clearance. The hard line won't flex once the hose is lined and snugged up.

                Might be worth a try before bending. Not sure if the early/late e30's had different HP P/S hoses. If flipping it doesn't help I would look in to an early e HP hose if your ordering one anyways, it bolts right up.

                Hope this helps!

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                  Thanks for the original writeup! I'm a diehard 02 guy that also has an 88vert, bought a rebuilt rack from Ebay and completed the swap in 5 hours by myself from wheels up to wheels down and a string alignment. Wayyyyy easier than I thought it was going to be.

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                    Aside from vorschlag, which is the same price as OE, does anyone know of an alternative for purchasing an early model steering shaft (non-air bag)? Started doing this swap and found that my u-joints are practically seized. Don't want to drop $300 on this part and I don't have fabrication tools
                    sigpic

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                      We just did the swap. Standard E36 rack from Rack Doctor. HIGHLY recommend these people. Nice to work with.

                      We did the tab bend method, even though I hated to do that - just seemed like it would be way more time and complication to lift the engine. You just have to bend them back carefully so that your mounting holes line up.

                      Used the Dungeon Motorsports spacer kits. Spacers on TOP of the rack.

                      Steering coupler kit was nice, although we had to enlarge the holes just a hair for the bolt size. That odd clunk we always had in the steering was I think a broken fitting in the coupler recall kit that was on our car. Noise is gone.

                      We thought we had cleaned up / enlarged the coupler U-joints enough, but ended up hand filing with a rat tail file to make clearance. A Dremel wouldn't fit due to AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION plumbing...I know...

                      It's the upper U-joint at the brake booster that mostly needs the attention so it doesn't bind. (We have a non-airbag '86)

                      We put the high pressure line with the 180 metal bend at the pump - works fine without bending it, although it is up against the lower radiator hose. Don't know if that's an issue.

                      Installed new E36 tie rod ends from Rack Doctor. Totally eyeballed it before we ran it over to the alignment shop......10 degrees off, oops.

                      Steering is so much better - tight and quicker, solid. A giant improvement.

                      Thanks for the guide and advice, OP and all.

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                        How To Guide - E36 Steering Rack Swap

                        On an airbag car, is it possible to install the steering joint upside down? I'm curious if this would move the shaft enough to avoid cutting the firewall.

                        [update] should be obvious to anyone who has done this swap - splines are a different size on each side
                        Last edited by noahsense; 09-27-2015, 09:21 PM.

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                          How To Guide - E36 Steering Rack Swap

                          Just completed installation of an e46 purple tag rack [7852974678] and couldn't be happier. The steering is perfect and splits the difference between the standard e36 rack and some of the more aggressive racks. I think my turning circle shrunk too! Rackdoctor was great.

                          My car has an airbag so I had to modify the firewall; as someone else mentioned, a Dremel with tungsten carbide cutter [#9903] works well and since I broke the bit half-way through I'm glad that I had a spare. A flex shaft is absolutely essential if the motor is in the car and you’ll find it easiest to route from inside. A respirator is good insurance since the bit will turn metal, paint, and rubber into fine airborne particulate.

                          Other tips:
                          -Have a new steering knuckle/flex disc ready since the old one will definitely be showing wear.
                          -It’s not mentioned much but the slot in the knuckle/flex disc should align with the little divot on the steering rack shaft.
                          -While everything is apart on an airbag car, apply a good deal of Loctite Blue (avoid Red unless absolutely necessary) to the blue section inside of the the ‘Big Nut’ on the steering column. The Big Nut has an inner plastic thread locker which after one dissassembly is much less effective and tends to loosen and cause steering column shake over bumps. This really should be a one-use part but BMW never sold it alone.
                          Last edited by noahsense; 02-19-2016, 12:53 PM.

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                            Good tips there! How much are knuckles going for these days?

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                              Originally posted by roguetoaster View Post
                              Good tips there! How much are knuckles going for these days?

                              I said knuckle but I really meant flex disc/joint! Around $100 so not cheap but worth doing while everything is apart since getting it off can be a god awful pain.

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                                Originally posted by nefarious7907 View Post
                                Like i said a few pages back, I used my stock lines, I put the straight fitting on the power steering pump and the u shaped end on the rack. I had to open up the u shaped arch about 20-40 degrees but otherwise the stock lines fit without a problem. I was waiting to reply because I was going to take a picture for you.
                                Would bending the HP hose possibly cause the hose to break or leak easier?

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