Hello and thanks in advance,
Car is in the forsale classifieds and i have noted the cars status in thread just to be clear.
I purchased a 1992 e30 convertible at the beginnig of this year, I previously owned a early model coupe and purchased it with a turbo setup already on the car but, I was in college and did not have the funds to get the car running properly (Tuning) and the car had been passed through many hands and needed alot of parts updating and upkeep that i was unable to give at the time but it was a good experience over all and i enjoyed it causing me to want to turbo the vert once i purchased it.
After driving the vert for a few months in the end of winter i started looking into turbo setups, I found a guy in NC who had a kit forsale along with many other extra parts. I drove to NC and helped the guy remove the motor and pulled the whole kit off the car for a great price.
Here are some specs:
huge FMIC
cast iron turbo manifold-666
eBay gt35r/50 trim
megasquirt v3.5 (EBC may be wired in, No lift shifts, Launch Control)
car has only seen 10psi, on this setup the car will dyno 300-350hp
tial 50mm BOV
tial 38mm wastegate
diyautotune iat
m50tps
turbo XS manual boost controller
aem uego wideband
stainless turbo feed and return line
p/s, a/c delete
new timing belt, tensioner, waterpump, serpentine belt, thermostat, exhaust and Intake gaskets
Ireland racing silicone coolant hoses
Ireland racing solid poly mounts
new valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket
fel pro headgasket
arp headstuds
oil return tube and new seals
auto meter boost gauge
mishimoto radiator
3" downpipe, v-band from turbo and exhaust to downpipe
tre 255lph fuel pump
adjustable fpr
new fan clutch
corbeau gt7 front seats with e30 rails
oil cooler delete
TRC clutch
I brought the kit home on a friday night and had the car running before the end of the weekend, at this time the waterpump,timing belt,tensioner, headgasket, intake and exhaust gaskets, bp7res plugs,wires,cap,rotor and a few other items were taken care of at this time. Car is on 10psi and has not seen any higher than that.
After literally 2 months i blew a headgasket (pushed the compression ring and burnt the coolant passage area on cylinder 3 on the intake side of the head) and tore it all apart and painted a few odds and ends along the way and warrantied my felpro gasket and threw it all back together not thinking to much of it
Here i am a few months later with the same problem, I pushed the HG out and burnt it up on cylinder 3 same exact as the first time.
Since i put the setup on the car i have not tuned it, which obviosly could be a very big factor in my problem but the car ideals fine and afr are good in boost (11.9-12.8) and previous owner DD the car on this setup, I will be tuning the car soon once i get some funds aside.
The block and head have not been resurfaced and visually look ok which i know isnt saying much but no cracks...., I will be taking a straight edge to it this evening, I would like to resurface them but then comes in the money factor and time with no car (this is my DD)
I have read the common coolant jacket welding but this seems risky and time consuming ontop of if i remove everything from the head for this process i would like to rebuild it while im at it and that isnt in my budget at the time, also the option of o-ringing the block which i am leaning more towards at this moment (a friend has isky o-ring tool). I am pushing myself away from the mls route unless i resurface the block and head and weld up the coolant slots.
I geuss my question is why is this happening in the same spot on cylinder 3? and is this common, Does it run hotter in that area?
Is this deffinantly a tuning issue seeing how the car is on 10psi and popping when i hear of people running 20psi on stock HG and arps.
The car runs great when cruising and driving like a civilized person and it boost very consistant and is very fast (have beat a ls6 cts-v, 6.0l gto and had fun keeping up with a v10 m5 on a pull) I have so much fun with this car (when im not working on it) and do not want to go to extreme into it just want to keep a low boost and semi reliable, moderate build. Which i feel i have acheived just now have this issue which is a very big one, I understand that i have alot of factors that could be the problem im just looking to hear all suggestions and options. I will have some spare cash soon and will be able to give the car the right attention. I just want to know how im going to approach it when that time comes.
I will post picture of the headgasket after work this evening,
Again thanks and sorry for any spelling and grammer.
[IMG]
[/IMG]
and if that doesnt work here is direct link :http://i985.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps7df3e59b.jpg
Car is in the forsale classifieds and i have noted the cars status in thread just to be clear.
I purchased a 1992 e30 convertible at the beginnig of this year, I previously owned a early model coupe and purchased it with a turbo setup already on the car but, I was in college and did not have the funds to get the car running properly (Tuning) and the car had been passed through many hands and needed alot of parts updating and upkeep that i was unable to give at the time but it was a good experience over all and i enjoyed it causing me to want to turbo the vert once i purchased it.
After driving the vert for a few months in the end of winter i started looking into turbo setups, I found a guy in NC who had a kit forsale along with many other extra parts. I drove to NC and helped the guy remove the motor and pulled the whole kit off the car for a great price.
Here are some specs:
huge FMIC
cast iron turbo manifold-666
eBay gt35r/50 trim
megasquirt v3.5 (EBC may be wired in, No lift shifts, Launch Control)
car has only seen 10psi, on this setup the car will dyno 300-350hp
tial 50mm BOV
tial 38mm wastegate
diyautotune iat
m50tps
turbo XS manual boost controller
aem uego wideband
stainless turbo feed and return line
p/s, a/c delete
new timing belt, tensioner, waterpump, serpentine belt, thermostat, exhaust and Intake gaskets
Ireland racing silicone coolant hoses
Ireland racing solid poly mounts
new valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket
fel pro headgasket
arp headstuds
oil return tube and new seals
auto meter boost gauge
mishimoto radiator
3" downpipe, v-band from turbo and exhaust to downpipe
tre 255lph fuel pump
adjustable fpr
new fan clutch
corbeau gt7 front seats with e30 rails
oil cooler delete
TRC clutch
I brought the kit home on a friday night and had the car running before the end of the weekend, at this time the waterpump,timing belt,tensioner, headgasket, intake and exhaust gaskets, bp7res plugs,wires,cap,rotor and a few other items were taken care of at this time. Car is on 10psi and has not seen any higher than that.
After literally 2 months i blew a headgasket (pushed the compression ring and burnt the coolant passage area on cylinder 3 on the intake side of the head) and tore it all apart and painted a few odds and ends along the way and warrantied my felpro gasket and threw it all back together not thinking to much of it
Here i am a few months later with the same problem, I pushed the HG out and burnt it up on cylinder 3 same exact as the first time.
Since i put the setup on the car i have not tuned it, which obviosly could be a very big factor in my problem but the car ideals fine and afr are good in boost (11.9-12.8) and previous owner DD the car on this setup, I will be tuning the car soon once i get some funds aside.
The block and head have not been resurfaced and visually look ok which i know isnt saying much but no cracks...., I will be taking a straight edge to it this evening, I would like to resurface them but then comes in the money factor and time with no car (this is my DD)
I have read the common coolant jacket welding but this seems risky and time consuming ontop of if i remove everything from the head for this process i would like to rebuild it while im at it and that isnt in my budget at the time, also the option of o-ringing the block which i am leaning more towards at this moment (a friend has isky o-ring tool). I am pushing myself away from the mls route unless i resurface the block and head and weld up the coolant slots.
I geuss my question is why is this happening in the same spot on cylinder 3? and is this common, Does it run hotter in that area?
Is this deffinantly a tuning issue seeing how the car is on 10psi and popping when i hear of people running 20psi on stock HG and arps.
The car runs great when cruising and driving like a civilized person and it boost very consistant and is very fast (have beat a ls6 cts-v, 6.0l gto and had fun keeping up with a v10 m5 on a pull) I have so much fun with this car (when im not working on it) and do not want to go to extreme into it just want to keep a low boost and semi reliable, moderate build. Which i feel i have acheived just now have this issue which is a very big one, I understand that i have alot of factors that could be the problem im just looking to hear all suggestions and options. I will have some spare cash soon and will be able to give the car the right attention. I just want to know how im going to approach it when that time comes.
I will post picture of the headgasket after work this evening,
Again thanks and sorry for any spelling and grammer.
[IMG]
[/IMG]and if that doesnt work here is direct link :http://i985.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps7df3e59b.jpg
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