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Help Me Build the Ultimate HEAD!!!

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    #31
    Originally posted by Insanity
    No, you can make your car lose a substantial amount of power and drivability by porting it wrong. If you've ported your head to be good at 14,000rpm, it won't do you much good at 1500.
    Well 14,000 is a bit extreme - I was aiming more for 5000 to 7000 since its a track car...
    Driving is the only way to go faster....

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      #32
      Originally posted by modifiede30
      Well 14,000 is a bit extreme - I was aiming more for 5000 to 7000 since its a track car...
      The point is that people don't understand that the difference between 5000 and 14,000 is a very minimal amount of material.

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        #33
        Originally posted by Insanity
        The point is that people don't understand that the difference between 5000 and 14,000 is a very minimal amount of material.
        verrry true! i can empasize with your time constraints believe my (8-5:30 m-f & 8-3AMish? fri and sat nights, doesn't leave alot of extra time for the car) i've done P&P for a long time; but, i was taught by some very knowledgable and experienced people (thanks dean lowery!). i have seen some seriously bad head work. to be able to make the statement that a head can/ will preform at a certain RPM can only accurately be made from experience with many heads and knowing where to remove material to increase the RPM/powerband. it's not just make the ports bigger and you will get more power up high. big ass hole=lower velocity in the port= no power down low= you may never get the motor up to that desired RPM:( . if you have a shop do the P&P ask them to just match the ports to the gaskets or slightly bigger. don't try to reinvent the wheel. have that and what i suggested earlier done to the head you should have nice power and be reliable. i don't know what the valve life expectancy is on m-20's, but any rebuilder worth a shit will know if you can rebuild the head w or w/o buying new valves and they should inspect them anyways. stainless steel valves may also be a good alternative for you. they are USUALLY cheeper and lighter than stock. reliability shouldn't be an issue for you as long as they are from a good manufacturer (i have always had good luck with Manley). as for the TI retainers, yea they aren't the greatest for a DD (since TI doesn't seem to like heat cycling in an engine, that's what makes it brittle/crack), but i have also used them on street with no problems (in air and water cooled VW's and flat-six porsches). i did pay attention to them and check them because i knew of the possable problems.
        hope this helps,
        greg
        seien Sie größer, als Sie erscheinen


        Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

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