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    E30 Driveline issue

    I just purchased a 1989 325i manual E30 locally. This is my first German car (Honda owner). I have an issue in mainly 1-2 gear at lower RPM's. The driveshaft itself knocks on the floor/frame. The previous owner placed the middle balancer (guibo?) and the center bearing.

    From what I understand the U-joints are beyond shot. I followed another thread which stated that the driveshaft costs roughly $300-$500 to get rebuilt. I was mainly curious to which other chassis driveshafts will fit mine. (Read that an E36 driveshaft is somewhat longer and will not).

    My setup:
    1989 325i
    2.93 LSD rear end
    Stock trans from M20b25

    Thanks in advance.
    EG Hatch- ITR Powered, 4 door Gs-R-stock, 89' 325i

    #2
    Easy why to see if the u-joints are truly shot is to look under the car and see. Because what you're describing sounds like a center bearing.
    [/SIGPIC]"we are so totally screwed!"

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      #3
      Previous owner claims he replaced the center bearing twice and it ruined that and the guibo. The shaft itself vibrates due to the bad U-joints.
      EG Hatch- ITR Powered, 4 door Gs-R-stock, 89' 325i

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        #4
        I mainly would like to know if there is any "special" driveshaft I need due to my transmission setup. I believe my transmission if from an earlier model E30 and I wanted to make sure that the front section is the same size as the late models.
        EG Hatch- ITR Powered, 4 door Gs-R-stock, 89' 325i

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          #5
          You can use the drive shaft from any manual transmission E30 325e/i/is. Your best choice would be to replace the drive shaft with a rebuilt unit (which usually comes with a new CSB installed). A used drive shaft is a roll of the dice. The one you get may not be any better than the one you have.
          The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
          Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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            #6
            Very true. Thanks for the advice. Rebuilds are so damn expensive.
            EG Hatch- ITR Powered, 4 door Gs-R-stock, 89' 325i

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              #7
              I just called a local shop and they said they can re-build it if they can convert it to servicable U-Joints. Are these driveshafts "convertable"?
              EG Hatch- ITR Powered, 4 door Gs-R-stock, 89' 325i

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                #8
                Also found out I have a 87' 325e transmission. Does that mean I have to match the drive shaft to the transmission? I called BMW parts and they said the part # differs from the 325i compared to the 325i.
                EG Hatch- ITR Powered, 4 door Gs-R-stock, 89' 325i

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by Mr. EG View Post
                  Also found out I have a 87' 325e transmission. Does that mean I have to match the drive shaft to the transmission? I called BMW parts and they said the part # differs from the 325i compared to the 325i.
                  Here's an awesome resource...



                  If you have questions about the part being different you can at least see if the part #s are different or if BMW parts is just pulling your leg.
                  '84 318i M10B18 147- Safari Beige
                  NA: 93whp/90ftlbs, MS2E w/ LC, 2-Step
                  Turbo: 221whp/214ftlbs, MS3x flex @ 17psi

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                    #10
                    This is what a bad U-Joint looks like:
                    Here is an example of a U-Joint in absolutely terrible condition. From a 1989 325i manual BMW.


                    A bad center bearing:
                    Here is an example of what a center Driveshaft bearing should NOT look like.Taken from a 1989 325i manual BMW.


                    A bad U-Joint alone would not cause anything to hit the frame of the car. A bad center bearing might though. And certainly a bad u-joint could destroy a center bearing right quick.
                    -------------------------------------------------
                    1989 - E30 - M20B25 - Manual. Approx 300,000+ miles - Track Rat & Weekend Fun
                    2000 - E46 - M52TUB28 - Manual. Approx 130,000 miles - [not so] Daily Driver

                    sigpic

                    I'm looking for a Lachssilber Passenger Fender and Hood. PM if you have one or both to sell!

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                      #11
                      The U- Joint keeps ruining the center Bearing. It was replaced by the previous owner twice and it came back due to the U- Joint. I can feel the play in the shaft if i go under the car and move it side- side/up-down.
                      EG Hatch- ITR Powered, 4 door Gs-R-stock, 89' 325i

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                        #12
                        Part number for an 87' 325e http://www.realoem.com/bmw/partgrp.d...08&hg=26&fg=05

                        Part number for a 87 325i http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...43&hg=26&fg=05
                        The part #'s differ from a 325i to a 325e. According to the Part #'s I can only use one from a 87' e (saying that year had a specific shaft).

                        I am incredibly confused to what driveshaft I need. I have an 87' 325e trans in my 89' chassis with a 2.93 LSD rear which I'm assuming is out of a manual car.

                        VIN on my trans is WBAAB5407H9804046
                        EG Hatch- ITR Powered, 4 door Gs-R-stock, 89' 325i

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                          #13
                          The difference is the size of the Guibo between the shafts. E transmissions for whatever reason use a large diameter guibo, the I trans uses a small diameter guibo. as long as you match the output adapter on the trans to the driveshaft, all is A-OK.

                          (I have owned both, 87 IC, and 87 E, sure enough the shafts, while the same length have different guibos on them)
                          I saved 15% on my Bimmer parts by switching to ...



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                            #14
                            Ok, so what your saying is that I can use an "I" or "E" driveshaft as long as I have the Guibo to match the front half? The front half of my driveshafts is 23.2 inches long. If anyone can compare theirs I would appreciate it. I measured from the front flange to the end of the U-Joint housing.
                            Last edited by Mr. EG; 10-06-2011, 08:15 PM.
                            EG Hatch- ITR Powered, 4 door Gs-R-stock, 89' 325i

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                              #15
                              you need the guibo and output flange on the trans to match the shaft, if there are good to go, and match the shaft, you have no worries
                              I saved 15% on my Bimmer parts by switching to ...



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