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Have a good inspection on the read subframe mounts and the rear strut tower boxing and where they meet the inner arch. If you look from inside the wheel well you will see two holes and how there is a water trap it often rusts or cracks.
Oooh, this aint his first rodeo. He's a vintage masochist.
Oooh, this aint his first rodeo. He's a vintage masochist.
Neat pictures Ryan.
masochist? I don't enjoy inflicting pain on vintage cars! But that's not terribly inaccurate I suppose.
Thanks again, these showed up today. I opened one of the two boxes. Did you also happen to ship the piece that mounts the exhaust the the tranny?
Pictures of that IE collaboration finally come to fruition that I embarked on when I was a young boy with no facial hair:
I bought an Eastwood Kit that allows me to ceramic coat these headers. I didn't read the instructions until today and it mentions that I need to have these sand blasted and then the coating has to be airbrushed on. Not very DIY friendly if you don't have a sandblaster or an airbrush system.
Nice headers, get them professionally ceramic coated.
Ok. I contacted my PC/Ceramic guy. He says he'll do it.
Tomorrow I will contact my wheel guy and get started on widening the stock steelies another 1.5" in the rear and 1" in the front. I never liked how much farther the front wheels stuck out compared to the rear wheels. That's why I'm going with a staggered set up. I figure I can help resolve under/oversteer issues that the staggered wheels will bring by tweaking the adjustable swaybars a bit.
and the 123 Dizzy allows you to program two ignition curves. I wonder if you can make them work with a turbo. A power curve and a economy curve. But I'd probably have to step up to a 5 speed or a stronger clutch that what is in there. Then I'd have to strengthen the suspension and run bigger brakes all around. an a longer rear end. But that would require a either a NK diff or update the rear end from a new 2002 and run something like a 3.64 or a 3.46 if I could find one.
My car has rust in some of the same areas. I'd be interested to see your experience with the repairs. If you are happy with the guy, I'll be hitting you up for his number.
I'd trade color combo with you in a heartbeat.
Ryan
Last edited by abrokenframe; 07-08-2015, 10:00 PM.
My car has rust in some of the same areas. I'd be interested to see your experience with the repairs. If you are happy with the guy, I'll be hitting you up for his number.
I'd trade color combo with you in a heartbeat.
Ryan
Yes, same car, same guy.
I'll let you know how it turns out with this rust repair guy. I think I'm paying between $1000-1200 for the entire car's rust repair. Let's see what that really means though.
I like this combo. I'm really glad to have found it. She will be a good car.
First, I pulled all the spark plugs in preparation for some marvel mystery oil in each cylinder. This car hasn't been started in 3 years, and there is no promise that the engine is even good. The PO said the car ran fine when parked about 7 years ago, and would drive it around the block every year until about 3 years ago. I'll do all the basic maintenance stuff and try to get this engine started on Sunday.
The dirtiest spark plug came from Cylinder 1, or the cylinder closest the distributor.
Then I pulled the radiator. I'm going to throw a new waterpump and thermostat in there just because. I also changed the oil with Brad Penn 20w50 partial synthetic, and a bottle of "V8 Restore", something I used when I did the same exact process to the blue car. The V8 Restore was recommended to me by Jeff Tighe. I trust most of his judgement.
Have you noticed how small the 1600 fan is compared to a 2002 fan or a tii/tropical fan? It can't be more than 300 mm in diameter, and it only has four blades instead of five. I'm debating cleaning it up and running it, or swapping to a brand new tropical fan I have laying around.
Then I just kept cleaning more and more grease and build up.
Cleaned up the top-side of the engine while I was at it. Also noticed that I don't have a single-barrel solex like I had though. This is a Weber 34 IDH or something like that. And the head is a 118, which I'm guessing is the small valves and small exhaust ports, meaning I won't be running the new exhaust headers on this car. I'll have to think of another solution. Maybe aftermarket, maybe stock. Who knows what I'll want in a week.
Bonus, VIN plate shot. This car also doesn't have a VIN plate on the dash piece above the steering wheel, like I've seen on other cars (or even my later 1600). This must be an early car thing.
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