Timing Belt / Water Pump DIY - Step by Step Pictures

[3N9]

Thanks Greg for a great DIY. I just about have mine wrapped up and printed out the DIY as a manual.

A quick question for all - When it came to the tensioner I let it do its thing then tightened BOTH bolts. Should I have left the tension slot loose so it can adjust for wear?
I'm not too far along and can take the covers off and fix the issue if I f'ed up.

I got to thinking about this and it seemed like a palm to the face moment.

Thanks in advance - Mark

edit-
On further thought...
The friggin bolts have to be tight or they'd rattle out. So the belt is engineered to have almost zero stretch. Set it and forget it?

[Overlord475]

The bolts should be tight.

ie, set it and forget it

[3N9]

Thanks man....this is my first project on the car and first time diving that deep on a Bimmer.

[pandaiswong]

Thank you so much for posting this guide. It helped me out when I changed my belt today.

[my_bmw_sucks]

Thanks for the write up. Used it more than the Bentley.

[JonTheHero22]

Apparently I'm a dumbass and I'm the only one with this question or I'm the only autotragic on this thread but as I was about to remove the radiator I ran into those two transmission hoses you mentioned in step 7. I removed the top one and a little fluid came out, no biggie, but the lower one seems like its gonna keep draining, will it stop on its own or do I need to drain the ATF? Also, I removed the block plug to drain the coolant from the block and it looks like the bolt was broken? Should I get a new bolt?





Or am I being overly cautious? This is my first real attempt at anything big on a car so I just wanna make sure not to hurt her

[davvik]

Maybe it is because I am on my phone but I can't tell why you think that bolt looks broken. Is it because the bolt is so short? That's the correct length. It's just a plug.

As for the transmission lines, I don't know that answer.

Sent from my SGH-T989D using Tapatalk

[KVF]

You should always get a new bolt/crush washer for the engine block. It's a cheep way to ensure it won't leak.

With regard to the tranny lines. Less will come out of the return VS the supply line, but if you have the front end of the car (and lines) elevated, the fluid should remain in the tranny. Of course you'll loose a bit when first disconnected.

[JonTheHero22]

Awesome thanks for all the help and tips guys

[abrokenframe]

I have a question since my car is an auto (for the time being) and all of the timing belt write-ups assume a manual.

How much trans fluid can I expect to lose from the radiator cooling lines when disconnecting them if my car is flat? Do I need to plug the lines to stop the trans fluid? Should I plan on topping off the trans fluid when done?

Ryan

[Chimi]

Before I get started on this job (finally -- sourced all the parts I think)

are there any bolts that I should replace with new ones while I do this? Or any other things like that I should keep in mind?

Thanks

[lti_57]

Thanks for taking the time to document this
I have done this on my 74 2002 long time ago.
For sure bring it up to TDC.
Remove the valve cover, Both valves should be closed on #1
I know you can just pull the belt where it is and replace but if you move the cam. You will wish you had it @ TDC just makes life easier .
and not that much more work.

[anabolice30]

http://www.blunttech.com/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=1988-BMW-325i--20convertible&yearid=1988%40%401988&makeid=31%40%40BMW&modelid=976%3ABT%7C10%3AMBC%7C168%3AED%7C66%40%40325i%2020Convertible&catid=240909@@Cooling%20System&subcatid=240952@@Water%20Pump&mode=PA

does it matter which of these I purchase?

[long tall eta]

http://www.blunttech.com/ShopByVehic...20Pump&mode=PA


does it matter which of these I purchase?

i would stick with graf, but i'm not an expert either.

[101]

I've used both Graf and Geba in the past. They both have worked fine for me.