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    Center Diff. Bearing question

    Bought new flex disc, trans mount and center diff bearing unit. My question is whether or not I am going to need some sort of puller to remove and install the new unit on the drive shaft. I've heard people mention needing pullers or a press.

    Before someone says "bearing failure is because bad u-joints and you need to replace the entire drive shaft" I'm not spending money on a new auto trans drive shaft when its all being ripped out for manual parts as soon as I collect the needed parts. I'm aware of the risk.

    1991 325i - "Scambles" The Daily Driven lightly modded.
    1988 Mazda RX-7 TII "Mako" The Free Dorito
    bacon by Jared Laabs, on Flickr

    #2
    Mine slid off pretty easily with a couple well placed taps of the mallet.
    - Josh
    1990 325is

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      #3
      Depends on how lucky you are. Mine didn't slide right off but I was able to use a flathead and a hammer.

      Comment


        #4
        omg
        lets start with the issues.
        1. that is not a differential bushing. that is the center support bearing for the drive shaft.
        2. the back haves of 325 drive shafts are the same and interchangeable. if your Ujoint is shot change the back half.

        No, you do not need a puller
        remove the whole drive shaft from the car.
        make the drive shaft so that you put it back together the exact same way. there should be 2 white dots, one of each half.
        then remove the front half, then remove the retainer clip, then spray the inside of the bearing with PB buster. then tap it out with a hammer.
        once it is off steelwool and clean the shaft and then slide the new one on.
        put the drive shaft back together.
        Mounting the Giubo.
        the arrows must point to the mounting surfaces (flanges) not away from them.
        the whole job should take 1.5 hours. and you do not need to remove the exhaust. undo the back, subframe hanger and trans hanger and let it rest on a jack
        Much wow
        I hate 4 doors

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Cabriolet View Post
          omg
          lets start with the issues.
          1. that is not a differential bushing. that is the center support bearing for the drive shaft.
          2. the back haves of 325 drive shafts are the same and interchangeable. if your Ujoint is shot change the back half.

          No, you do not need a puller
          remove the whole drive shaft from the car.
          make the drive shaft so that you put it back together the exact same way. there should be 2 white dots, one of each half.
          then remove the front half, then remove the retainer clip, then spray the inside of the bearing with PB buster. then tap it out with a hammer.
          once it is off steelwool and clean the shaft and then slide the new one on.
          put the drive shaft back together.
          Mounting the Giubo.
          the arrows must point to the mounting surfaces (flanges) not away from them.
          the whole job should take 1.5 hours. and you do not need to remove the exhaust. undo the back, subframe hanger and trans hanger and let it rest on a jack
          mean't to type driveshaft was in a hurry,calm down ladytits.

          knew the rest already, just wasn't sure of how the CSB was going to behave at this point I'm stuck anyways, one of the three bolts on the rear collector refuses to turn (take a guess which one)
          1991 325i - "Scambles" The Daily Driven lightly modded.
          1988 Mazda RX-7 TII "Mako" The Free Dorito
          bacon by Jared Laabs, on Flickr

          Comment


            #6
            Done, the absolute worst part was the goddamn exhaust. Flex disc was still pretty good looking, replaced anyways. U-joints felt pretty good as well. This didn't fix the rattling sound though. Must not be in the drive line because that is now tight as a drum.
            1991 325i - "Scambles" The Daily Driven lightly modded.
            1988 Mazda RX-7 TII "Mako" The Free Dorito
            bacon by Jared Laabs, on Flickr

            Comment


              #7
              what does the rattle sound like?
              Much wow
              I hate 4 doors

              Comment


                #8
                I'll try and find a way to shoot video of it, but it sounds like something thin and metallic is flopping around. I'm ruling out it having anything to do with the drive train.
                1991 325i - "Scambles" The Daily Driven lightly modded.
                1988 Mazda RX-7 TII "Mako" The Free Dorito
                bacon by Jared Laabs, on Flickr

                Comment


                  #9
                  Did you remember to pre-load the CSB? Needs to be pushed forward if I remember right, then tightened down to the body.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    did that yes.
                    1991 325i - "Scambles" The Daily Driven lightly modded.
                    1988 Mazda RX-7 TII "Mako" The Free Dorito
                    bacon by Jared Laabs, on Flickr

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by AwakenNoMore View Post
                      did that yes.
                      The guibo is directional. Did you face it the right way? Rattle could be sheild hitting exhaust hanger, or one section hitting another.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Bmr View Post
                        The guibo is directional. Did you face it the right way? Rattle could be sheild hitting exhaust hanger, or one section hitting another.
                        I'm aware of the quibo directional specs. The rattle has been there since i've owned the car, its not from this.
                        1991 325i - "Scambles" The Daily Driven lightly modded.
                        1988 Mazda RX-7 TII "Mako" The Free Dorito
                        bacon by Jared Laabs, on Flickr

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Cabriolet View Post
                          omg
                          lets start with the issues.
                          1. that is not a differential bushing. that is the center support bearing for the drive shaft.
                          2. the back haves of 325 drive shafts are the same and interchangeable. if your Ujoint is shot change the back half.

                          No, you do not need a puller
                          remove the whole drive shaft from the car.
                          make the drive shaft so that you put it back together the exact same way. there should be 2 white dots, one of each half.
                          then remove the front half, then remove the retainer clip, then spray the inside of the bearing with PB buster. then tap it out with a hammer.
                          once it is off steelwool and clean the shaft and then slide the new one on.
                          put the drive shaft back together.
                          Mounting the Giubo.
                          the arrows must point to the mounting surfaces (flanges) not away from them.
                          the whole job should take 1.5 hours. and you do not need to remove the exhaust. undo the back, subframe hanger and trans hanger and let it rest on a jack
                          Why encourage ghetto r3vtards to make hodgepodge imbalanced driveshafts?

                          The factory balances them for a reason; doubtful you can magic eyeball the balance esp with non matched parts.

                          If playing ghetto mismatch driveshaft hobo games then the entire fucker should be brought to a driveline shop to balance.

                          If the $30 for balance is out of budget or the owner is simply too lazy.......face palm to self in cue.


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                          Last edited by Wanganstyle; 09-24-2013, 09:32 AM.
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