it delaminated, would probably cause reduction in pressure. how does the pump look? and the relief valve you want to make sure nothing else is the cause
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89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...
new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505
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Not sure on the oil pump yet. I brought it in to a local shop who services lots of e30's and he was going to inspect it for me - I could have done it myself, but I didn't want to take the chance of missing something due to being unfamiliar with it.
The head and the block are at the machine shop - the machinist was a little nervous about installing new intermediate shaft bearings and I am not sure that he has started yet. The bearings are really hard, which surprised me, I thought they would be closer to a regular cam bearing or something, and they came in ~0.020" undersized to the intermediate shaft.
I ordered a Bimmerheads 274 regrind, IE HD rockers, and everything else needed to get the head reassembled, so I can't wait to get that back.
I haven't ordered any of the parts for the bottom end yet. It had standard size coated rod bearings and uncoated main bearings, so I was just planning on replacing with the same thing. I have been researching piston rings. I am leaning towards ordering a set of rings from MM, but open to any recommendations for other moly 86mm rings.
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because they need to be bored and honed in situ the int bearings probably are a little harder? any machine shop should have equipment to install them
standard KS bearings or similar are all you need for mains and rods. for the rings id just get another set of Moly rings for the MM wiseco pistons.89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...
new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505
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Originally posted by digger View Postbecause they need to be bored and honed in situ the int bearings probably are a little harder? any machine shop should have equipment to install them
The oil pump is ruined as well, there was a fair amount of wear/scoring inside, so a new one is on order.
Also, I took the cover off the DME and it turns out I have one that has a stock 2.5l chip that is soldered directly to the main board, so I may search for a different DME and put in a SSSquid Chip until I am ready to put together a MS unit.
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So the machine shop called me today and said everything was done except the intermediate shaft bearings. They said they did not know how they could size and install them. I've called around to several shops in the area and no one seems to want to touch it. I'm not really sure what to do here, I've tried explaining the process to install these bearings and I definitely can't put the engine back together in this condition.
Does anyone know of any places in the Denver area that has done these bearings before?
My other option is that I could send my block down to a shop called Memphis Motor Werks in Memphis that can do the work.
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So I haven't gotten anywhere on getting these intermediate shaft bearings replaced. I'm looking for some opinions on another option, would it be possible to just have the intermediate shaft turned down to clear the new bearings?
After a quick internet search I haven't found anyone who has done that. After talking to Jim from MM, I got the feeling that this could be a possibility. He also said in a pinch that he has carefully taken the bearings out of old ETA blocks and installed them into an i block with good success as well. Not sure what to do here, looking for any other recommendations or possible solutions so I can get this thing back on the road.
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send the block to MM get them to do it and they will send it back89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...
new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505
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It's been a long 6 months between buying a house and moving the iX / engine over to my new place in boxes, being busy at work, and finally figuring out my intermediate shaft bearings.
Since I couldn't find anyone who could machine and install new OEM intermediate shaft bearings, I had some custom bearings made using oil impregnated bronze and were made to mimic the OEM bearings. I haven't seen or heard of anyone doing this before, do I'm praying that they won't give me any issues.
With the new bearings installed, I painted the block, took delivery of my new rings, rod bearings, and main bearings and I reassembled the bottom end.
I also found a brand new iX oil pump and waited about 35 days to receive it from Germany.
After building up the bottom end, I switched focus to the head. I replaced the valve stem seals and installed the 274 Bimmerheads Cam, with IE heavy duty rockers/oversized eccentrics.
And finally, over the past two days I reassembled the engine and it's ultimately ready to be installed in the car.
After the new year, I will hopefully have the time to mate the front subframe, engine, trans, TC and install from the bottom up.
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Gold!
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkThe best one-stop shopping for German car parts and lifestyle: http://www.gutenparts.com/
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That sure looks a whole lot better :)Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com
https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
Alice the Time Capsule
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220
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Originally posted by jneumss View PostSince I couldn't find anyone who could machine and install new OEM intermediate shaft bearings, I had some custom bearings made using oil impregnated bronze and were made to mimic the OEM bearings. I haven't seen or heard of anyone doing this before, do I'm praying that they won't give me any issues.
Interesting approach for bearings. Shop that made/installed bearings couldn't machine OEM ones or there is some other trick? Just wondering why it was easier to produce those custom ones vs machining OEM units. Final fitting process would be the same (machine to the diameter +.001-.0015" clearance ->press in->final verification and minor honing to maintain the clearance)...no?
Those cylinder bores look super shiny or it's just a pic? Hopefully your new rings will break-in well.Last edited by zaq123; 12-30-2017, 05:54 PM.
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Originally posted by zaq123 View PostInteresting approach for bearings. Shop that made/installed bearings couldn't machine OEM ones or there is some other trick? Just wondering why it was easier to produce those custom ones vs machining OEM units. Final fitting process would be the same (machine to the diameter +.001-.0015" clearance ->press in->final verification and minor honing to maintain the clearance)...no?
Those cylinder bores look super shiny or it's just a pic? Hopefully your new rings will break-in well.
Also, the shiny cylinder walls are a combination of a film of oil and lighting in the pic, they definitely weren't that shiny after being honed.
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Ok, so I've had the car running and driving for about two months, but have only put about 700 miles on it so far.
I have an issue that I'm battling, I'm running an SSSquid Stage 2 tune and I'm experiencing a hesitation between off idle and 3k rpm. In addition, I have low vacuum at idle ~10inHg and a steady low and slightly rough idle ~650 rpm. Above 3k rpm, the engine runs smooth and pulls hard through 5500rpm.
I also failed Colorado emissions having slightly high NOx. I had an average of 4.6545 and the limit is 4.0000 grams per mile. So it's definitely running a little lean. CO and HC emissions are well below the limits.
Things I have done to troubleshoot:
- smoke tests (no vacuum leaks)
-compression test (all good)
-new O2 sensor
-stomp test (no codes)
-Bentley electrical tests (nothing out of tolerance)
-valve adjustment
The only thing I haven't done is check the timing to ensure I'm not off a tooth or so, but that's my next step. Has anyone else experienced this or have any other ideas of things I could try out?
I found one other thread that had described symptoms like this, but they did not post any resolution and had a completely stock engine. Any other suggestions?
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