Oil pressure sender on the e30m30

[george graves]

I need to buy a complete oil pressure set up by Monday am.

I'll add my research tomorrow - but wanted to hear if anyone had first hand or reliable info on the trick set up.

So far:

- Replace stock sender (is there room?)
- Remote mount? (what lines and fittings? Build lines? Adapters? yuck)
- tap oil filter housing?
- e30 m3 filter housing?

gg

[Zacm829]

I am very interested in this as well. I just got an oil pressure gauge in the mail and was debating on how to mount it.

[jlevie]

Use an adapter to convert from the metric threads of the oil pressure switch to pipe threads. Mount the sensor on the motor mount arm and plumb with copper tubing and swagelock fittings. Or you could mount the sensor on the body and use braid covered tubing and AN fittings.

[Jean]

How big is the aftermarket unit? I think there is enough room on the side of the head as it's not really against the firewall?

E30m3 housing is probably the most expensive option? But you could add oil cooler yes?

Tap into a spare stock oil filter housing sounds like a possible option...

[george graves]

Mount the sensor on the motor mount arm and plumb with copper tubing and swagelock fittings.

Are you thinking of a m20 dude? Has anyone seen a m30 with a oil pressure on the exhaust side? That's what it sounds like you are suggesting. Are you talking out of you ass again? :D


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How big is the aftermarket unit? I think there is enough room on the side of the head as it's not really against the firewall?

I took a look at it last night - it's gonna be tight! But really, the senders aren't the strongest thing in the world then they can get broken off in you put too much pressure on the then perpendicular to the threaded part.




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Oh and lets talk oil temp sensors while we are at it.

Temp sensor location: the pan drain plug is also a option - but not a very good one as mentioned below (and nado knows a lot about it too)

ADAPTING SENSORS AND WIRING


The old style bottom-bolt oil filter housing has a boss on the right side for a sensor. This boss is pre-drilled for an M12 coarse thread (you just needs to finish the hole and tap it). There a couple of options here: you can get a 1/4 NPT 150ºC temp sender from VDO and tap the hole for this or you can use the VW M10 sender. The best thing for the VW sender is to get a 1/4 NPT x 1/8 NPT brass bushing and tap the boss for this bushing. The 1/8 NPT threads are very close to M10x1.0 so you can chase the inside of the bushing with a tap and use the VW sender. One other option is to replace the oil pan drain plug with a sensor. These are available from VDO also. The oil pan is not the best place to measure temperature because there is minimal flow and the pan is cooled by airflow. The oil filter housing is a good place to measure oil temperature since all the oil going to the engine flows through there.


Boss on bottom-bolt housing; sender mounted in top-bolt housing; 150ºC temperature sensor There is no boss on the newer top-bolt filter housings and the casting has thin walls everywhere. Because the walls are so thin a straight-thread can't seal well. I got around this problem by putting a bushing in the wall where the boss should be.

E30m3 housing is probably the most expensive option? But you could add oil cooler yes?

From my understanding M30's don't need an oil cooler, and if you do install one, the t-stat never opens up to divert oil to the cooler - the cooler stays at air temperature - or at least that is what one m30 owner said who installed one.

Tap into a spare stock oil filter housing sounds like a possible option...

Good Ideal - apparently the walls are quite thin - too thin?

Here is a guy that did it for turbo oiling







Looks shotty to me - I wouldn't like to go on a long trip like that. What do you think?



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This e24 has plenty of room. I don't think I could squeeze that in there.
That is a stock VDO sender with an M12x1.5 to 1/8 NPT adapter.


Or you might be able to make an adapter bar:



That might add some clearance:




If anyone whats to research what the s14 guys do - that might be helpful.

[george graves]

I think the trick set-up will be a remote sender set up.



Getting it off of the head (vibrations shorten the life of the sender) and away from the firewall so it's not broken with engine movement.

[Jean]

Oh it's a fatty one.... I would vote on the oil filter housing or remote.

[Zacm829]

How much do the remote kits and adapter bars run and where do you get them?

[george graves]

The bar that you see is custom. The lines can actually be made on a workbench I believe, I may have to buy a special crimping tool.

If I find good sources of either I'll post up. Right now I'm still hunting.

[Good & Tight]

You can make your own sending unit adapter from the original one. Gut the top of the sensor, take a 13mm nut and 1/8 NPT tap to thread the nut. Weld the nut to the top of the sensor.

[george graves]

^sounds like a good fix in a pinch. Looking for something everyone can do.

Here is an Alpina m30 - owner claims that this is a stock oil filter housing.

[george graves]

Good Mye28 thread: http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t...ressure+sender

That refers to this thread: http://home.mindspring.com/~scrappyc...0_senders.html

[george graves]

m20 block - but this is what I've been thinking of for a m30 block. Nice and simple - easy to install. Easy to remove. Keeps the sensor nice and safe.






- steel adapter 12mmx1.5mm - hydraulic supply house
- hose kit is a -4AN kit from Summit Racing. Do not use cheep brass adapters.

[george graves]

And while we are at it - m20 manifold

http://www.factory3performance.com/shop/shopexd.asp?id=288

[KevlarWeave]

I think what really matters is what way does the oil cycle in the engine?