Mounting the engine without subframe spacers, and without tilt.

[Jean]

The e32/e34 coolant res. isn't great anyway so not a big deal. Front strut bar can be custom made, so not an issue.

So, with the 5speed the tranny end is about 10 mm lower than the engine side? Is that correct?

[Jonsku]

The e32/e34 coolant res. isn't great anyway so not a big deal. Front strut bar can be custom made, so not an issue.

I wouldn't say it's "not great", as it sits exactly on the optimum position and makes "airing" the engine very easy indeed..

There won't be enough space for front strut bar if you don't drop the engine.. (unless you use ~5mm thick material..) The engine really is very, very close to the hood..

So, with the 5speed the tranny end is about 10 mm lower than the engine side? Is that correct?

More or less so, yes. Could be even less, as the 5-speeder is quite small so there definitely is more room in the tunnel than with the 6-speeder, let alone the ZF5HP30..

[BruceBe]

With our oil-pan mods, and modification to the subframe (fabbed new, lower-profile upper mounting flanges for the rack), we now have a driveline angle at less than 2 degrees of tilt UP in the front.

The pan mods are straightforward, if you can manage the porosity in the casting. our pan had to come out once, to re-fill a pin-hole leak.

In an already lowered race car, we just didn't have the luxury of lowering the suspension any further (to re-establish nominal ride height and rake), or raise the mass centroid axis in the front of the car (the spacers effectively jack the body up in the front, relative to the power train and unsprung suspension bits).

-Bruce

[The Dark Side of Will]

With our oil-pan mods, and modification to the subframe (fabbed new, lower-profile upper mounting flanges for the rack), we now have a driveline angle at less than 2 degrees of tilt UP in the front.

The pan mods are straightforward, if you can manage the porosity in the casting. our pan had to come out once, to re-fill a pin-hole leak.

In an already lowered race car, we just didn't have the luxury of lowering the suspension any further (to re-establish nominal ride height and rake), or raise the mass centroid axis in the front of the car (the spacers effectively jack the body up in the front, relative to the power train and unsprung suspension bits).

-Bruce

What's your pinion angle?

IE, driveline angle is only relevant when said in the same breath as pinion angle. If you don't know pinion angle, worrying about driveline angle is a complete waste of time.

Sounds like you put spacers between the crossmember and body that lift the body up... In that situation, lowering the suspension further would only screw up the geometry more. The spacers are bad enough for geometry...

[BruceBe]

Why would anything at the front of the car be relevant to the *pinion* angle on the diff? It is a fix-mounted diff with a two-piece driveshaft and center bearing. The geometry between the center bearing and the diff does not change with the installation of the engine/trans. I probably should have been clearer that the "angle of the engine" was less than 2 degrees. The issue with tilt relates to the flex-disc (guibo) on the front section of the driveshaft.

-Bruce

[BruceBe]

I wouldn't say it's "not great", as it sits exactly on the optimum position and makes "airing" the engine very easy indeed..

There won't be enough space for front strut bar if you don't drop the engine.. (unless you use ~5mm thick material..) The engine really is very, very close to the hood..
..

It's not "optimum" if the car has a strut bar :-) By utilizing an e30 reservoir, our Ireland Engineering strut bar bolted right back in. And we've had no issues bleeding air from the system.

-Bruce

[The Dark Side of Will]

Why would anything at the front of the car be relevant to the *pinion* angle on the diff? It is a fix-mounted diff with a two-piece driveshaft and center bearing. The geometry between the center bearing and the diff does not change with the installation of the engine/trans. I probably should have been clearer that the "angle of the engine" was less than 2 degrees. The issue with tilt relates to the flex-disc (guibo) on the front section of the driveshaft.

-Bruce

I've only gone that deep into an E34 at this point...

But that just brings up the same question... if you're concerned about the alignment of the guibo, then talking about the alignment of the driveline is meaningless unless you're also talking about the thing to which you're aligning it... which would be the csb in this case.

[E30SPDFRK]

I notched my upper pan last spring.



I had to space my old e36 rack all the way down in order to clear the pan before the notch. Now with the notch and my e46 M3 rack spaced all the way up I still have a bit over 1/2" of clearance.

Another thing to worry about is the shitty factory fluid filled mounts. After a little over 12,000 miles of hard driving mine had sagged enough that my pan was sitting on my rack/subframe. Notching the pan would help with that.

[The Dark Side of Will]

I've only gone that deep into an E34 at this point...

But that just brings up the same question... if you're concerned about the alignment of the guibo, then talking about the alignment of the driveline is meaningless unless you're also talking about the thing to which you're aligning it... which would be the csb in this case.

To elaborate on this a little further:

BMW probably got their driveline alignment right... If you're using the S5D-310Z 5 speed, then you can use the stock E30 transmission crossmember and mounts for the Getrag 265. IF the distance from the crossmember to the output shaft centerline is the same on the ZF as it is on the Getrag, THEN duplicating the stock driveline angle will duplicate the stock driveline alignment.

There isn't any value to discussing a measurement unless you have something to which that measurement should be compared.

[Jonsku]

It's not "optimum" if the car has a strut bar :-) By utilizing an e30 reservoir, our Ireland Engineering strut bar bolted right back in. And we've had no issues bleeding air from the system.

-Bruce

Umm... I don't understand your point :)

The original E34 coolant reservoir is optimum in that sense that it sits on top of everything and at the coolant-pipe outlet from the engine.

I didn't account for the "near firewall" strutbar, those might fit (depending on how far back you push the engine).

[Jesper K]

S62 pan will do the trick

Hi folks.
If the S62 pan will fit the M6x, you prob. wont ned spacers or pan modding.
Just a minor mod. of the steering-rack brackets.
I have approx. 7mm of clearence in the rack/subframe region.
I know eng. types are not ident. & fortunately this solution gives approx. 25mm
of hood clearence.
I`ve used a E34 M20 525i auto. radiator. A small mod. of the LH framerail gives space for the built-in reservoir. Full size both up & dn. and between rails + a tad thicker than a normal E30 rad.
At the same time it has a oil-cooler loop inside. (auto-rad.) Could be used for chilling the H31 sys. Or other purposes.
A

Jesper K.

[The Dark Side of Will]

Hi folks.
If the S62 pan will fit the M6x, you prob. wont ned spacers or pan modding.

Jesper K.

Isn't the external profile of the pans pretty much the same?
There's a whole lotta junk inside the S62 pan that may be difficult to move to an M62. The oil pump is very different...

[Jesper K]

Oil pan

The S pan is slimmer in the rack-bracket region & as i recall a less steep angle above the rack/sub.
If it fits I guess you could ditch all the g-activated oil-sys. stuff.
You wont need it with a regular pump.

Jesper K.

[noid]

Even if it did fit you would still have to modify something (according to you the steering rack brackets, cant confirm or deny this). I think at the end of the day it would be cheaper and easier to pay a professional welding shop to notch the pan then to source and buy a s62 pan.

[Jesper K]

S pan

Point taken

Jesper K