First DIY post for me. Got annoyed at my AC switch and more annoyed at prices of some used ones out there so I took the risk of taking one apart to clean it myself. A search lead me to bowtie2bimmer’s DIY post from 2012 but with some missing images, so I decided to post this hoping it becomes useful to someone out there.
My AC switch buttons became difficult to click into place. Neither the AC nor the Recirculating (recirculation?) button would stay on without jamming some gum wrapper in the gaps so I pulled the switch out and decided to clean all the gross from 1989 out of it.
The switch is made of pretty strong plastic, but you will want to do things as GENTLY as possible. There are little bits inside that if bent too far or snapped will pretty much render the switch useless.
*BULBS: If you simply want to replace a dead bulb on the switch, just pull up on the white circular tabs found on the bottom. There will you find a housing containing a replaceable 2721 12v 1.2W bulb.
This is an AC switch from a 1989 325is, in case for whatever reason yours looks different.
1. Standing the switch on the buttons will reveal 2 tabs at the top on each side holding the housing in place. Gently slide your tool (xacto blade or a strong plastic card could work) between the housing and the tabs. !!THERE ARE SPRINGS INSIDE!! So carefully guide the contact board out of the housing.
2. After separating the board from the housing, immediately look for a small gray tab that will come loose. Will most likely still be left in the housing (or already have fallen on the floor somewhere). Image below shows where it goes and what it looks like in place.
[Once you find it, SET IT TO THE SIDE along with the springs. Don’t lose them! Very important.]
3. Remove the bulbs and begin cleaning. I used a small wire brush and dremel to carefully scrub all corrosion, gunk etc from the contacts. (Before and After shots)
4. Housing: On one side of the plastic housing there is a tab with three small holes close to the buttons. Carefully pry that small tab open, try not to bend it too much. This is tough plastic, I had to use some force on mine, but some will open easier than others. It also has two small tabs on the sides of the housing holding it in place but these are much tougher to reach. I just used a sharp pick to create a gap and a small flathead screwdriver to pry it open on the ends.
5. With the buttons loose, you will find a space cut into the sides, you’ll want to clean these as well. You can add new grease with a qtip after cleaning to help the guides move smoothly. The buttons also have metal contacts you will want to clean. DO SO CAREFULLY! There are tiny-TINY (brass? copper?) springs under these contacts. Do Not Pull or attempt to lift them unless you are a German jeweler who does watch repair on weekends! These are very fragile!
6. The plastic tab will contain two white guides. These are what slide into the notches in the spaces of the buttons. If you do not see little nubs on these than they are possibly broken and the reason why your buttons don’t stay pressed.
[Haven’t figured out where to get these or any legit way to fix them. 3D printing a pair could work but haven’t tried making them yet.]
7. Using your fingers, slide these left and right, if you feel any resistance and want smoother operating buttons you’ll have to adjust the tab spacing. I removed the guides and scraped the inside of the guide spaces with an x-acto knife until I got them to slide with minimal resistance.
8. Put the housing back together by placing the buttons with the slots facing upwards, visible through the gap. Line up the guide tab with both guides pushed to the right and press into place. This piece will only fit the correct way and you want to line up the small white guides to fit into the bigger spaces in the slots of the buttons. Once in, push the buttons all the way out from the inside.
9. With everything clean, reinsert the bulbs (they will help guide the springs in place), and insert the small gray tab into position. The gray tab will fit downward into a gap between the two closest contacts, flat side facing out. It should sit flush against the two contacts. (See images)
10. Slide the board into the housing with the gray tab sliding flush against the top side of the housing. The contact board also only fits into the housing one way, it won’t snap into place if not lined up correctly. Take note of the edges of the housing and the board, one side square, one side curved edges.
11. With everything back in place depress the buttons, they should pop into a locked position. If you are having trouble getting the guides to hold the buttons in place when depressed, use a sharp tool and adjust the guides from the outside while depressing the buttons. Tapping the AC switch on either side should get the guides to become visible through the slots along the side of the switch.
And that’s it! You’re done.
If this DIY helps even just one person, who like me, is being driven crazy by a wonky A/C Switch than I’m already happy I took the time to type this up!
My AC switch buttons became difficult to click into place. Neither the AC nor the Recirculating (recirculation?) button would stay on without jamming some gum wrapper in the gaps so I pulled the switch out and decided to clean all the gross from 1989 out of it.
The switch is made of pretty strong plastic, but you will want to do things as GENTLY as possible. There are little bits inside that if bent too far or snapped will pretty much render the switch useless.
*BULBS: If you simply want to replace a dead bulb on the switch, just pull up on the white circular tabs found on the bottom. There will you find a housing containing a replaceable 2721 12v 1.2W bulb.
This is an AC switch from a 1989 325is, in case for whatever reason yours looks different.
1. Standing the switch on the buttons will reveal 2 tabs at the top on each side holding the housing in place. Gently slide your tool (xacto blade or a strong plastic card could work) between the housing and the tabs. !!THERE ARE SPRINGS INSIDE!! So carefully guide the contact board out of the housing.
2. After separating the board from the housing, immediately look for a small gray tab that will come loose. Will most likely still be left in the housing (or already have fallen on the floor somewhere). Image below shows where it goes and what it looks like in place.
[Once you find it, SET IT TO THE SIDE along with the springs. Don’t lose them! Very important.]
3. Remove the bulbs and begin cleaning. I used a small wire brush and dremel to carefully scrub all corrosion, gunk etc from the contacts. (Before and After shots)
4. Housing: On one side of the plastic housing there is a tab with three small holes close to the buttons. Carefully pry that small tab open, try not to bend it too much. This is tough plastic, I had to use some force on mine, but some will open easier than others. It also has two small tabs on the sides of the housing holding it in place but these are much tougher to reach. I just used a sharp pick to create a gap and a small flathead screwdriver to pry it open on the ends.
5. With the buttons loose, you will find a space cut into the sides, you’ll want to clean these as well. You can add new grease with a qtip after cleaning to help the guides move smoothly. The buttons also have metal contacts you will want to clean. DO SO CAREFULLY! There are tiny-TINY (brass? copper?) springs under these contacts. Do Not Pull or attempt to lift them unless you are a German jeweler who does watch repair on weekends! These are very fragile!
6. The plastic tab will contain two white guides. These are what slide into the notches in the spaces of the buttons. If you do not see little nubs on these than they are possibly broken and the reason why your buttons don’t stay pressed.
[Haven’t figured out where to get these or any legit way to fix them. 3D printing a pair could work but haven’t tried making them yet.]
7. Using your fingers, slide these left and right, if you feel any resistance and want smoother operating buttons you’ll have to adjust the tab spacing. I removed the guides and scraped the inside of the guide spaces with an x-acto knife until I got them to slide with minimal resistance.
8. Put the housing back together by placing the buttons with the slots facing upwards, visible through the gap. Line up the guide tab with both guides pushed to the right and press into place. This piece will only fit the correct way and you want to line up the small white guides to fit into the bigger spaces in the slots of the buttons. Once in, push the buttons all the way out from the inside.
9. With everything clean, reinsert the bulbs (they will help guide the springs in place), and insert the small gray tab into position. The gray tab will fit downward into a gap between the two closest contacts, flat side facing out. It should sit flush against the two contacts. (See images)
10. Slide the board into the housing with the gray tab sliding flush against the top side of the housing. The contact board also only fits into the housing one way, it won’t snap into place if not lined up correctly. Take note of the edges of the housing and the board, one side square, one side curved edges.
11. With everything back in place depress the buttons, they should pop into a locked position. If you are having trouble getting the guides to hold the buttons in place when depressed, use a sharp tool and adjust the guides from the outside while depressing the buttons. Tapping the AC switch on either side should get the guides to become visible through the slots along the side of the switch.
And that’s it! You’re done.
If this DIY helps even just one person, who like me, is being driven crazy by a wonky A/C Switch than I’m already happy I took the time to type this up!
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