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    Oil pump job

    I'm having oil pressure issues and am thinking about doing the oil pump and oil pan. The Bentley manual I have doesn't cover the iX, so I'm wondering:

    1) is the job any different from the way it's described in Bentley (aside from the lack of a gasket)?

    2) why do threads on here seem to say that my options are to lift the engine or drop the subframe, when Bentley seems to say that I can just remove the steering rack? (but it's not completely clear, and I'm a noob)

    3) is this realistically a two-person job, or would I only occasionally need a helper?

    TIA. I'm also wondering if I should tackle the oil filter housing, which I also want to do, at the same time or if it doesn't make a difference.

    #2
    Originally posted by mrob View Post
    I'm having oil pressure issues
    What makes you say that ?

    iX oil pan is a more complex job since you have the front diff, drive and axle shafts to contend with. I'd confirm the oil pressure problem before pulling this apart.

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      #3
      Thanks Seawolf. Symptoms: the oil pressure light stays on for 4-7 seconds when starting, 7 seconds when cold, around 4 seconds when warm, which I don't think is normal. Also, the last time I changed the oil it was a little on the sludgy side for this car, even though it wasn't old. Could an issue with the oil filter housing contribute to either of these? The housing or the threaded shaft may be bent, because the filter doesn't meet the housing all the way around when fully tightened. My thought was that the filter in the oil pump might need cleaning, and/or the housing needs to be changed. Full disclosure: I accidentally ran it without an oil plug gasket between oil changes last time. The issue with the light staying on didn't start at this point, but the light did start staying on a little longer.

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        #4
        You must have a big oil leak around the filter if that is not contacting properly which would explain oil pressure light staying on longer at startup. You are essentially getting air in the system when it's not running so it takes longer to get the pressure up to normal just like after you change the oil. I have a good filter housing if you need one.
        The difference between porcupines and BMWs is that porcupines have the pricks on the outside!

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          #5
          Thanks, wodcutr. I have a good housing, but I appreciate the offer. Would you remove the cooler lines in the car or remove the cooler/lines and then take everything apart? BTW I'm planning to replace the gasket set and o-rings on the housing, but I'm not sure if there's anything else that I should refresh.

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            #6
            Originally posted by mrob View Post
            Symptoms: the oil pressure light stays on for 4-7 seconds when starting
            You may save a lot of angst by confirming the pressure switch isn't faulty, either connect up a pressure gauge with a capilliary adaptor replacing the electric switch, or just replace the switch, it's a cheap part.

            Do you actually have a (big) leak from the oil filter housing ? And have you run this engine out of oil at some point ?

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              #7
              Thanks, Seawolf. Today I replaced the oil filter housing, which seems to have taken care of the issue. I noticed that a PO had left the o-rings off the cooler lines. Now there are new o-rings, and the filter sits flush on the housing.

              Before this, no, there wasn't a noticeable leak from the housing, and the level stayed constant according to the dipstick. I've never run the engine out of oil.

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                #8
                Okay, so is the oil pressure light problem now fixed ?

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                  #9
                  Yes, thanks, I think it's fixed. The light only flashed for an instant when I started it twice yesterday. Thanks for your help.

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