E46 330 rack into E30

[noahsense]

firewall modification, depends...

I did this modication last year - went with a purple tag/678 rack with which i'm completely happy. You can install the rack with all spacers under the rack and not have to modify the firewall but this will yield significant bump steer which can be dangerous. I'm fairly certain that this is accurate for all e46 (and e36) racks, ZHP or not. You could resolve this with a tie rod modification kit but that is expensive and you might need to increase wheel size.

The tried and true method is to install bushings above the rack and carefully modify the firewall.

Check out this thread by Benz-tech on bump steer.

[Staszek]

I did this modication last year - went with a purple tag/678 rack with which i'm completely happy. You can install the rack with all spacers under the rack and not have to modify the firewall but this will yield significant bump steer which can be dangerous. I'm fairly certain that this is accurate for all e46 (and e36) racks, ZHP or not. You could resolve this with a tie rod modification kit but that is expensive and you might need to increase wheel size.

The tried and true method is to install bushings above the rack and carefully modify the firewall.

Check out this thread by Benz-tech on bump steer.

Ok I am having a new subframe from ARC made due to my S54 so I wont need spacers because he is building it to accommodate the new Rack. So you are saying I will have that issue?

[jpod999]

Sounds like he is saying you are going to need to modify the firewall.

[noahsense]

Ok I am having a new subframe from ARC made due to my S54 so I wont need spacers because he is building it to accommodate the new Rack. So you are saying I will have that issue?

The rack must place the tie-rod at the correct angle to the knuckle. A custom subframe that positions the rack downward will have the same consequence as placing the spacer on top of the rack - it will still be in the wrong position and result in bump steer.

There is one simple resolution which is to modify the fire-wall.

If you're hell-bent against cutting the fire-wall (i hear you), there are other options but they aren't cheap and there are trade-offs.
1. Install bumpsteer kit (expensive/may require professional setup)
2. Custom steering shaft linkage. Some folks have reported that competition racks have a slightly different pivot location and do provide the correct clearance. Vorshlag makes one for an e36 that I believe should work but you're gonna want to do your homework. Aside from being very expensive, you lose the rubber bush in the stock rack which does a lot to remove unwanted vibration from the steering wheel. Folks who say this bushing dulls steering either have a worn linkage or they're actually racing. If you want a comfy road car, keep the donut.

Many of us have been through this and ended up in the same place. Keep the stock linkage, cut the fire-wall. Seal the raw edge with bodysealent/por-15/whatever and enjoy your sweet new rack.

[Staszek]

The rack must place the tie-rod at the correct angle to the knuckle. A custom subframe that positions the rack downward will have the same consequence as placing the spacer on top of the rack - it will still be in the wrong position and result in bump steer.

There is one simple resolution which is to modify the fire-wall.

If you're hell-bent against cutting the fire-wall (i hear you), there are other options but they aren't cheap and there are trade-offs.
1. Install bumpsteer kit (expensive/may require professional setup)
2. Custom steering shaft linkage. Some folks have reported that a competitions racks have a slightly different pivot location and do provide the correct clearance. Vorshlag makes one for an e36 that I believe should work but you're gonna want to do your homework. Aside from being very expensive, you lose the rubber bush in the stock rack which does a lot to remove unwanted vibration from the steering wheel. Folks who say this bushing dulls steering either have a worn linkage or they're actually racing. If you want a comfy road car, keep the donut.

Many of us have been through this and ended up in the same place. Keep the stock linkage, cut the fire-wall. Seal the raw edge with bodysealent/por-15/whatever and enjoy your sweet new rack.

Ok sounds good, I will just adjust the firewall. I want him to have the rack in the correct spot.

[BaltimoreBimmer]

I have parts. Let me tell you some things

Ok guys,

So I decided to go ahead and attempt this swap. Purchased a ZF steering rack from rackdoctor (purple tag 768 rack - not ZHP). The steering rack came with e46 inners and e36 outers. This is what Rich suggested over the phone. Also got the gargastic spacers (for both the rack and the coupler). I have a non airbag e30 convertible.

Now that I have everything and have installed both main pieces, I wanted to share my experience. I ran into 2 problems.

Problem #1:

Even with the added spacers from gargastic, the modified steering coupler is binding on itself at certain points - just barely, but it is. See picture:



This is the top joint closest to the firewall. Now this is very small, but you absolutely feel the resistance/snag when you are in the cab turning the wheel. And here is another angle when it is binding - looks pretty nice apart from the bind lol:



Has no one else encountered this? Haven't heard of anyone with binding issues after the spacers. Again, I feel I can probably just grind off at the points of contacts to alleviate this. Regardless, something will have to be done.

Edit: I shaved down those points and it is now turning without binding. People have reported having to do this with e36 swaps.

Problem #2:

The lower pinch bolt on the steering coupling will not go in, as the respective cutout of the e46 rack is not lined up properly in the coupler. The cutout the bolt should go through is actually too FAR in, not too far out. So what this means is that, were I to somehow get this to line up properly, by sliding the splined section out slightly (away from the coupler), this would make the binding issue ever more exaggerated. So I feel that is not an option. Here is a picture of that (you can see the concave section where the bolt should go through is infact visible on the coupler side just barely):



Something of note, when I first installed the rack, I put the coupler in first, then the bolted the rack in. With both installed, it was physically not possible to mate the two together. The coupler was simply too far down and couldn't even get over the nub, much less down onto the splines. No problem. Now on the second install, I put the steering rack halfway in, lined it up with the coupler, inserted the rack nub onto the splined section and then pushed them together as I moved the rack into its installed position. It was through this act that I was able to mate the two, and they mated hardcore. The splined section is really in there. Too far. Which is why I now have the problem with the coupler bolt - b/c the cutout does not line up. But the connection is sound.

On one hand, i'm thinking it's physically impossible to get the two separated without removing the rack bolts and pulling it halfway out first (like i did to get it in) but on the other hand, I am thinking it's probably not wise to drive around without that pinch bolt in there.....

But I literally cannot see how it could come out - the e30 steering shaft isn't telescopic or anything like that. What do you guys think about these issues? I can provide more pictures if needed. But figured it would be good to add some concrete information to this thread

Here are some pictures of various part in case it helps anyone with their install:









let me know what you guys think about the pinch bolt issue

[socreates_wk]

I plan on doing this swap in a couple weeks as well. Definitely keep updating on what you find out, its very appreciated.

Any idea what power steering pressure hoses work (e30, e36, e46?). Feel like no one states a clear answer. Thanks.

[ELVA164]

Call me crazy, but is there some reason you can't shorten or remove the spacers in the steering shaft next to the guibo? Looks like that could be an easy way to solve the issue with the lower splines.

[BaltimoreBimmer]

Call me crazy, but is there some reason you can't shorten or remove the spacers in the steering shaft next to the guibo? Looks like that could be an easy way to solve the issue with the lower splines.

Shortening the spacers would exaggerate the issue. I would need to actually increase the size of the spacers to make this work. Look at where the cutout is in relation to where it should be. Problem is there is not room to add a thicker spacer. I could barely get those ones in as it is.

I can get the pinch bolt through but then the steering rack doesn't line up to the mounting bolt on that side by the smallest amount ever. It's crazy close but will not bolt up.

Edit: I think I misread what you intended. You are talking about those oem spacers about the guibo not the ones I put in? In that case, yes I supposed I could do that, but it would be difficult as I think those spacers are simply part of the guibo itself. If I were
To grind those down I would be better off starting with a new guibo as this one is a bit old. Then I would have to source bolts that are small enough to not interfere with other parts of the linkage. So perhaps I could do that, but it would require a bit of re working. Wonder what I would use as new rubber.. I don't think it would be wise to rework my current one that much. Perhaps I could use the MTC replaceable guibo they sell..... I think that difference would be enough to make this work.

https://m.eeuroparts.com/Parts/129330/Steering-Flex-Disc-32311153993G/

After looking....seems like there are
Metal sleeves inside the guibo. Not sure if it would be easy to grind it down to what o need. What do you think? I'll have to measure the dofferenc In order to be sure but it looks like when it comes down to it, I should modify that area to make it work. Good thinking!

Curious where I could source something thinner to replace that guibo. Would prefer to stick to rubber

From other threads on guibo delete - some are saying you really don't want anything solid in place of the oem rubber.

[ELVA164]

Either I'm completely seeing this incorrectly or you've completely misunderstood me, haha. I've circled the spacers I'm talking about.



Your problem appears to be the column is pushed too far into the spline on the rack. That's why you can see the channel for the bolt. If you shortened or removed the circled spacers, it would pull the bottom half of the column up and bring that channel closer to the hole for the pinch bolt.

[BaltimoreBimmer]

Dang so we are misundering each other. Look at how those pieces mate though. The part on top of your circles is actually connected to the bottom piece. And the parts below your circles are actually connected to the top piece. The metal pieces "S" around each other. So making those spacers shorter will only push the lower half of the coupling farther onto the rack spline.

Putting the spacers IN makes the coupler shorter not longer. So theoretically I could just make those spacers larger....but in reality I can't b/c it wouldn't be possible to actually bolt them together.

Check out this angle (random e30) to see what I mean about the way they are connecteD

[ELVA164]

Ah, look at that. Duh. What a weird setup. Guess it really has been a while since I did mine, heh.

So back to what you were saying: There's barely enough room as it is between the two pieces there, so going any larger with the spacer isn't an option? What would keep you from bolting them together, interference with the nut? Is use of a half nut possible? Would any reshaping of the inside of each piece gain much space? I wouldn't really recommend messing with the guibo because that helps dampen small vibrations, even though that would be a great space to gain some room.

[BaltimoreBimmer]

What would keep you from bolting them together, interference with the nut? Is use of a half nut possible? Would any reshaping of the inside of each piece gain much space?

There is interference with the protruding shaft of the coupler itself. It was quite taxing to even get the bolts in as there were. Putting another spacer in would be bonkers. See below:



Now, I'm curious if my coupler is pushed all the way in as far as it can go on the firewall side... I've loosed it, jammed a chizel in there (safely) and used a punch and hammer to attempt to get it farther on, but it wouldn't budge. (sort of why I am doing this modification with it still on the car...) If you look at some of my pictures earlier (in particular: the first and second pictures in post #36), you can see how the splined shaft from the firewall side is recessed from the inside of the coupler. Is that the normal position? Or should the coupler be farther on?

If not, I can simply persuade it farther on.

If so... I'm not positive how I would address this issue without getting at the guibo (which i don't want to do). I wonder if it's even physically possible for the coupler to come off once everything is bolted up (minus the pinch bolt ofc) considering how far inserted the steering rack spline is..

I wouldn't really recommend messing with the guibo because that helps dampen small vibrations, even though that would be a great space to gain some room.

Yeah, I thinking that as well. Saw others mention that on the guibo delete threads. Probably best to stay away from it.

[ELVA164]

This is a bit "outside the box," but what the heck: What if you bought a longer fully-threaded bolt, cut the head off, cleaned up the end, stuck the threaded rod into the hole (lack of a head would allow more angle/possible entry from the guibo side), then use a lock nut or even jet nut on each end? That may allow you to fit more of a spacer in the middle without any other modifications.

As far as the upper U-joint goes, if the bolt is in there and it went into the channel on the splines, you're good to go. I see the bolt so that looks correct.

[ELVA164]

Another idea I just had which would be mega-bonkers but would probably work would be to use a spacer in the center with an internal thread. Screw a section of threaded rod into each end so it only sticks out maybe a half inch, then place the two spacers between the halves of the steering shaft. Then you could unthread both ends of each spacer until they pop through the holes in each side, then tighten with a nut on each end. Now this is starting to feel like one of the annoying issues we encounter on our race cars, haha.