Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Car acting up, especially at warm engine restart

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Car acting up, especially at warm engine restart

    Well my little 318i has been mad at me since last December when we took at trip to test drive an E30 M3. On the way home she started running crappy and throwing 1222 code.

    So...I thought perhaps some type of vacuum issue, so did the "mess delete", full tune up, cleaned up intake mani and put in new injector o-rings. Still wasn't running great, so purchased a j/y AFM (after testing the crank/cam sensors) and that seemed to do the trick.

    Until recently...

    I have been experiencing long crank times to start the car in the AM (6-8 seconds before it fires and starts), plus the idle is a bit lumpy until I rev it and drive for a bit.

    Also, now I've noticed that trying to restart after engine is fully warmed up results in cranking with no firing (almost like vapor lock in my CIS VWs). It will eventually start if you keep at it - 20+ attempts - and requires a lot of throttle feathering to keep it from stalling. Once underway it will run, but throttle response is off.

    So yesterday I tried to eliminate a few issues.

    - Swapped out another AFM
    - Swapped out coil packs
    - Swapped out spark plug wires

    None of these helped (did them independently). Got everything back to where it was, and fired it up and let it idle. As it warmed up the car seemed to idle better. A smooth, slow throttle input allowed the car to rev. A sharp stab or quick WOT stomp and the car just bogs...easing up on the throttle the engine would start to rev as the throttle closes.

    I removed the throttle position switch while running, just made it idle rough. Disconnected the AFM and the same thing.

    Took the car for a slow spin around the neighborhood and it felt okay. Came back to get my wallet to go for a longer drive and now it is in its "crank no fire" mode.

    I am getting 1216 code, but that is likely due to me messing with the AFM and/or TPS.

    Thoughts are I have are a possible fried coil pack that damaged the coil driver on the DME (have not swapped that) or possibly a bad coolant temp sensor. I know these CTS's wreak havoc on Motronic VWs and can cause some pretty crappy performance.

    Mechanically the engine is sound - it has been well maintained with 3K oil changes all its life. Did timing component rebuild at 120K (has 160K now).

    Any suggestions? Of course car could still be mad at me for the M3 issue. I prefer the M42 car over the S14 BTW (at least as a daily).

    #2
    I had similar issues, which got progressively worse until no starts. Turns out my fuel pump was on its way out and was working intermittently. Easy enough to pop that cover and check it out.

    Comment


      #3
      +1 on checking the fuel pump. Also, maybe you have a plugged fuel filter?

      If it is not that, then I say check the fusible link in the trunk. You will see 2 wires coming off of the battery + terminal. The smaller one powers the fuel injection system, and there is an in-line fuse about 2ft from the battery under electrical tape. A LOT of guys have had the wire corrode around this thing, and you basically end up with super low, or intermittent voltage for your fuel injection system. Give that a quick visual inspection. If it is bad, then you just need some heavy crimp splices & a crimper, or if it is totally shot to hell, chop a good one out of a junk yard car.

      Good luck!

      Transaction Feedback: LINK

      Comment


        #4
        Okay thanks for the advice. To test fuel pump should I just install a pressure tester inline on the supply line? I think it is supposed to be 40psi. I'll check the fuel pump relay, too.

        Fuel filter was replaced in December (less than an oil change ago) with a Bosch unit.

        Checked the fusible link for kicks...it appears to be fine:



        What bummed me out more was this rot (not rust...rot!) in the corner of the trunk. This is the end of the steel tube that connects the front of the right rear fender with the inner rocker. WTF!!!



        Here's a view from the rear seat...just starting to spread. Weird thing is that if you push on the rust bubbles they pop and have a smelly liquid in them



        How the heck would it rust here? It almost seems like it is rusting from the inside out. Weird thing is the car has zero rust with the exception of the normal rear panel battery tray rust.



        Guess we'll have to chop out a section on a j/y car and fab it in.

        Comment


          #5
          It was the fuel pump...can't believe how strong it feels now!

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Petebee View Post
            It was the fuel pump...can't believe how strong it feels now!
            Congrats man. I know mine was annoying as all not knowing exactly how it was going to act that day. Nothing like having a good running lil 4 banger!

            Comment

            Working...
            X