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    G260 Swap Questions:

    I'm just going to list some questions about the manual swap and hardware as we work our way through this. We have an '86ES auto, right at the 5/86 crossover month. We bought an '84 1270 eta G260 which should have the single mass flywheel with sensor pins.

    First thing - it was in a car with an engine fire. The good thing is it was running and shifting. The bad thing is some odds and ends got hot, so we're checking into the condition of everything on it.

    My guess is a left side fuel fire that dripped onto the ground underneath...? CPS's are melted off. Vent cap is partially melted. Exterior switch is part melted. Guibo shows signs of being hot and starting to get gooey, and the vibration dampener looks like it was melting together. Rear trans mount on one side is sticky and soft.

    BUT...the slave cylinder rubber is intact and good. The fork spring is fine, and that's pretty thin wire. So it was exterior rubber and plastic. We'll change all seals, even though it wasn't leaking.

    We got an intact driveshaft, cross-member, & plate shifter assembly.
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    Small output flange? '84 eta trans.
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    Slave was fine and still working - spring and rubber still good
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    So, my questions so far before we start a parts order:

    1. Is this the small output flange?

    2. What's the deal with the vibration dampener at the output flange / guibo? Some cars have it, some don't? Is there a rhyme or reason? Only early cars? Is it necessary? Why is it over $200 new from BMW, and are there aftermarket ones? Do I need to find a good used one? Can we leave it off?

    3. Why do people replace the clutch fork? Seems like just heavy sheet metal. Does the TP bearing wear divots in it? We'll do new spring, pivot pin, pilot brg, TO brg, and of course clutch assembly.

    4. Any first-hand experience with heat on the exterior of the case?

    More pics below -

    #2
    Probably should do the shift rod seal too? Obviously the shifter mounts and bushings.
    [ATTACH]116122[/ATTACH]

    Hot guibo.....$5 shipped...
    [ATTACH]116123[/ATTACH]

    [ATTACH]116124[/ATTACH]

    I'm scraping the CPS bits out of the bores.
    [ATTACH]116125[/ATTACH]

    Clean all this, new seal, lube splines, & some emery cloth to clean up the end at the pilot bearing?
    [ATTACH]116126[/ATTACH]

    Comment


      #3
      Ive a new Bosch eta CPS here as well as an assortment of shifter parts. Happy to help if I can
      Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

      https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
      Alice the Time Capsule
      http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
      87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

      Comment


        #4
        < bump > Thanks Jeff.


        Anyone?

        1. Is that the small output flange?

        2. Do I need this vibration dampener on the output flange?

        3. Why would you need to replace the clutch fork?

        Comment


          #5
          1. That looks like the output flange on the eta trannies I've seen.

          2. It my understanding you can delete the damper. I dont have one on my 87 which uses an eta trans and drive shaft

          3. Wear. I'd say you have options here. I replaced mine cause I didnt have thje donor car with me when I ordered parts. They arent costly and nnot a big deal either way IMO
          Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

          https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
          Alice the Time Capsule
          http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
          87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

          Comment


            #6
            I'm pretty sure it's the small one - need to order the correct guibo, the driveshaft matches.

            I'm cleaning and taking things apart - the back of the fork arm has two shiny deep divots where the button and the slave rod wear on it - probably replace.

            Just an FYI - I tried oven cleaner as an experiment. Works well, but rinse it off the aluminum as it will eat into the finish. Not a big deal on a hidden transmission, but I wouldn't use it on valve covers etc. And don't get it on your hands or face, or breathe it!

            Working our way through the plate shifter bits. Looks like we have everything, but the wear parts need to be replaced.

            On these OEM diagrams, does the stack of little bits inside the shifter arm need to be replaced for any reason? (3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 12) It's all tight, no play in it. And you could replace it later from inside the car.
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            At the back of the shifter plate, it shows two brackets or rear mounts that attach to the body I think, #5 and #6. Are these already on an automatic car?
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              #7
              Oh, and on the parts diagram it shows a "sound absorber" that sits around the shifter hole. I thought it was a rubber pad, but it's this sponge-looking block...
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              Anyone find this when they pulled one apart? Was it still there? Is it foam?

              Comment


                #8
                I have a piece of foam but it doesnt look like that. Im also wondering if you can just switch to a late style shifter and still have everything mount and line up. It all looks compatible

                Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

                https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
                Alice the Time Capsule
                http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
                87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

                Comment


                  #9
                  The early eta manual doesn't have the ribs cast into the top of the case for the aluminum shifter arm. The steel plate bolts into two bushing mounts (#1 on diagram) at the back of the case.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Question on pedal box -

                    Do I need the airbag or non-airbag pedal box?

                    <EDIT> - Solved it. Up to 87 1/2 had separate pedal assemblies I think. Later ones supported the steering column. We found an early one in town.
                    Last edited by LateFan; 08-15-2017, 09:38 PM.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Question bump -

                      Opinions on this flywheel surface please?

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                        #12
                        It looks smooth and unscored but I see flywheels like brake rotors. Its a friction surface that needs to bed with its new disc (or pad) so texture matters.
                        Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

                        https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
                        Alice the Time Capsule
                        http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
                        87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Things got a little warm.

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                          This will all be rebuilt with new. Mostly just soot and crud. The u-joint feels solid, no play.....opinions on replacing?
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                          I drained some of the oil and it looks good, smells fine.
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                          I cut off the steel ring on the harmonic balancer at the output flange. Are you guys sure this can be left out when we're finished?
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                            #14
                            The pedals we got have an E28 sticker, but I assume those are the same piece?

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                            These pedals should eventually rest in the same plane, correct? Or does that zinc-plated bar just needs some adjustment?

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                              #15
                              My clutch pedal is about 1/2-3/4" higher & as long as your u joints are tight and not lumpy they should be fine. New guibo and CSB goes without saying (which is why Im saying it) :-)
                              Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

                              https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
                              Alice the Time Capsule
                              http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
                              87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

                              Comment

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