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While my engine is out, what should I do to it?

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    While my engine is out, what should I do to it?

    Hello, so I recently came across an M20 from a 525i with about 100k miles on it. I'm getting a pretty good deal, so I think I'm going to buy it along with a transmission and diff. and swap it into my 318is. While I still have the engine out, I plan on changing the timing belt and maybe a headgasket kit. What else should I consider doing to refresh it for a long, healthy life while I still have it out? I've not got a huge budget, but I may be able to toss a couple performance parts on, but I'm mostly hoping for longevity.

    #2
    Oil pan gasket. Rear main seal. Cam seals. And don't use Victor Reinz.
    AWD > RWD

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      #3
      I would not pull the head at 100k IF there was no obvious reason to.

      jus me,
      t
      now, sometimes I just mess with people. It's more entertaining that way. george graves

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        #4
        I wouldn't touch the rear main if it is not leaking.

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          #5
          Follow the prime directive. If it ain't broke don't fix it.

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            #6
            Does the m20b25 from 525i mount differently to the m20b25 from an e30? I know there are differences but they escape me at the moment.
            89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

            new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

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              #7
              From what I understand, it might need a different oil pan, but I haven't heard of any other differences. And I was thinking of doing a rear main seal, but then again the old if it ain't broke mantra is a solid piece of wisdom to live by.

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                #8
                i recall something about dipstick and engine mount differences, but as long as the block mounting holes are the same and its just the brakcets that are modified then it should not be a problem
                Last edited by digger; 04-17-2017, 11:04 PM.
                89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

                new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

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                  #9
                  You need to swap the sump for a e30 one

                  Tap the holes for the e30 motor mount arms

                  Drive the plug out of the block for the dipstick tube

                  Best to get an e30 harness too

                  I did a e34 M20 2.5 in to a 83 318i last year
                  We're out there in here.

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                    #10
                    Not sure about your situation, but those 318is are going up in value quicker than any other non M e30. If it were me, I would keep that M42 in there and get a cheap 325e to swap the m20b25 into... I think you will be devaluing you car by doing this swap - if the car is in ok condition.
                    I know you didnt ask for it, but that is just my .02.

                    Edit: But yes I would pull the caps on the rods to check bearings at least and do all the gaskets and any vacuum lines.. Once that rear main goes - its a pain in the arse
                    .
                    Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
                    Last edited by peterman; 04-19-2017, 03:40 PM.

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                      #11
                      Personally. Would do all gaskets and the bearings.


                      1989 325is l 1984 euro 320i l 1970 2002 Racecar
                      1991 318i 4dr slick top


                      Euro spec 320i/Alpina B6 3.5 project(the never ending saga)
                      Vintage race car revival (2002 content)
                      Mtech 2 turbo restoration
                      Brilliantrot slick top "build"

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by peterman View Post
                        Not sure about your situation, but those 318is are going up in value quicker than any other non M e30.
                        They might be catching up, but as far as I've seen, they are not yet at comparable 325i/is pricing. My .02 cents.


                        OP...
                        I'm assuming you are also swapping out the idler pulley and water pump with that timing belt? You are also going to want to do a simple valve-lash adjustment.


                        Beyond that, I see good arguments for both leaving it alone..or replacing bearings,etc. Your call.
                        ADAMS Autosport

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                          #13
                          Keep the 318is a 318is, or put something much greater in it's place. All you're doing is driving down the value of the car.

                          You can probably sell it or trade it directly for a 325 car in as good or better shape
                          Drive it hard. Maintain it well.


                          Convertible Technical & Discussion
                          A Topless Memorandum

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by mr2peak View Post
                            Keep the 318is a 318is, or put something much greater in it's place. All you're doing is driving down the value of the car.

                            You can probably sell it or trade it directly for a 325 car in as good or better shape


                            Agree, keep it a 318.
                            1991 325i 4 dr Euro Spec, 5 Speed, 4.10 LSD, Slicktop

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