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Swapped Input flange on my 3.23 LSD to 6 bolt

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    Swapped Input flange on my 3.23 LSD to 6 bolt

    OK so i went and bought a driveshaft for my swap not realizing it was 6 bolt. tryed looking for a 4 bolt but it was stating to become a pain in the ass. so i just bought a 6 bolt flange. so we installed that and tightend it with the imapct gun and it got real hard to move so we loosened it and tightened it to 70# with a tourque wrench now it moves freely. thoughts? i dotn wanna fuck my shit up if i run it.
    my build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=309778

    #2
    probably already caused damage to the crush washer in the pinion bearing.

    the proper way to swap flanges would be to make a mark on the old nut and pinion shaft before removing the nut. and count the rotations as you would on a tie rod just to know how far the nut was on the shaft.

    and to install you tighten the nut until it starts to get tight. it should be the same amount of revolutions it took to take it off and it should also line up with the marks you made in the beginning.

    or at least thats how i did it when i swapped to a six bolt flange and haven't had any problems yet.


    edit

    see picture

    IMG_0364 by alec.ruonavaara, on Flickr


    i have no idea what i am doing with my life

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      #3
      There is a crush washer on the pinion it is probably screwed now

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Mistawall View Post
        tightend it with the imapct gun and it got real hard to move so we loosened it and tightened it to 70# with a tourque wrench now it moves freely. thoughts? i dotn wanna fuck my shit up if i run it.
        There is a crush sleeve that is meant to be replaced when rebuilding the diff, and it can be salvaged if you are just replacing the seal, or input flange. You actually need to use a dial indicator to re-seat the pinion seal to ensure minimal leakage. In addition to what I just stated, the steps below is what you should have done...

        Originally posted by dirtbag30 View Post
        make a mark on the old nut and pinion shaft before removing the nut. and count the rotations as you would on a tie rod just to know how far the nut was on the shaft.
        Now you need to replace the crush washer, and rebuild the pinon bearing assembly.

        sigpic

        A man chooses, a slave obeys... Would you kindly?

        Comment


          #5
          Fack. well the diff isnt in the car. wonder how much that will cost cuz i certainly dont have the know how for that.
          my build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=309778

          Comment


            #6
            i just called up a transmission/driveline guy gonna see what he will charge me...
            my build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=309778

            Comment


              #7
              Impact gun, fail.

              Check Us out on Facebook
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              OBD2 Tuning Available! OBD2 E36, S54 Swap, S62 Swap, etc: tuning@MarkertMotorWorks.com Dyno Thread

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                #8
                sweet so he told me to order all the seals and crap might as well replace everything since he gotta take it apart. said liek $150 in labor
                my build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=309778

                Comment


                  #9
                  That's crazy cheap, and almost concerning. Most people get quoted ~1k for a diff rebuild it seems.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    wicked cheap

                    Check Us out on Facebook
                    Needing a harness adapter or wiring help? Check it out: also have 24v motor mounts, E30 M3 covers and E36 ECU mounts!
                    Full Product Line Tuning
                    OBD2 Tuning Available! OBD2 E36, S54 Swap, S62 Swap, etc: tuning@MarkertMotorWorks.com Dyno Thread

                    Comment


                      #11
                      using this thread as a parts source
                      Bimmerforums is the preferred online BMW Forum and community for BMW owners. At Bimmerforums, you will find technical how-to information maintenance specifics audio advice wheel and tire combinations and model specific details not found anywhere else. Our professionals are here to help make sure you find the answers you need to your questions and our community is here to help other brainstorm ideas for the future.
                      my build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=309778

                      Comment


                        #12
                        im just replace seals and crush sleeve
                        my build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=309778

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Yea, that's reasonable. I paid 450 for parts and labor to have the rear end in my durango rebuilt. BMW speciality shops just like to charge a lot.

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